Damaged jointer. Repair or replace?

[junquecol]

Because the outfeed table is kept at a constant height, can you swap the tables? Sure you would lose that super accurate height gauge in the process, but do you actually use it?

 

[Yelverton]

Because the outfeed table is kept at a constant height, can you swap the tables? Sure you would lose that super accurate height gauge in the process, but do you actually use it?

Well, the issue with that is that the broken part of the dovetail way is on the base, not on the table, itself. So assuming switching them would work, the infeed nee outfeed table wouldn't be secure, either.

 

[bob vaughan]

The suggestions given by many is spot on. Dispose of it and move on. Spilled milk. The metal used for those machines isn't much ( I'm being tactful). Weld and braze repairs don't often end well.
I've seen that break on USA-made Delta machines in the past. Repairs just didn't work. I remember one guy's attempt was to have the dovetail way machined off and another screwed on in its place. Still didn't work well enough to justify the labor.

There's a switch, motor, and stand you have. That's a valuable start on another jointer.

I got the below Delta 37-220 for cheap. I should have known from the price. I took it apart to fix things up and found these fatal flaws. There was evidence on the end of one of the beds that the jointer had taken a nose dive on to a very solid surface. It hurt, but off to the recycle bin the jointer body parts went. I've had a lot of these jointers come through the shop over the years, but this one was my first. Hopefully it will be the last.

 

[Yelverton]

The suggestions given by many is spot on. Dispose of it and move on. Spilled milk. The metal used for those machines isn't much ( I'm being tactful). Weld and braze repairs don't often end well.
I've seen that break on USA-made Delta machines in the past. Repairs just didn't work. I remember one guy's attempt was to have the dovetail way machined off and another screwed on in its place. Still didn't work well enough to justify the labor.

There's a switch, motor, and stand you have. That's a valuable start on another jointer.

I got the below Delta 37-220 for cheap. I should have known from the price. I took it apart to fix things up and found these fatal flaws. There was evidence on the end of one of the beds that the jointer had taken a nose dive on to a very solid surface. It hurt, but off to the recycle bin the jointer body parts went. I've had a lot of these jointers come through the shop over the years, but this one was my first. Hopefully it will be the last.

Thanks, Bob. That broken piece looks very familiar. I've had a few members reach out about jointers collecting dust in their shops, so with any luck it will work out to pick up one of those. I do have a fresh tube of JB Weld in the shop, so just for the heck of it I'm going to make an attempt at a repair. If (as I expect) it doesn't work, no worries.

I've also been looking at new machines, but the prices seem to have increased outrageously in the last several years. It's hard to believe that there isn't a decent closed-cabinet jointer on the market for less than $850 + freight.

 

[bob vaughan]

Considering how porous that level of cast iron is, it might be that JB weld will hold. Consider clamping some forms in place to index the dovetail. Rub the form stick (or whatever) with wax. Epoxy doesn't stick to wax. There should be a film of JB Weld that would raise the broken piece up just a wee bit so you can just feel it. The 'form' will likely a piece of straight steel to keep the dovetail surface true. What happens on the outside is merely a fit in the wind.

 

[rcarmac]

I have an old Craftsman model 113.206933 6" collecting dust. It was my father's and still runs well enough, but I could never get it tuned up right and the blade guard is broken off. I also wanted an 8", so I replaced it with a new one and returned it to his old shop in Sampson Cty. You are welcome to it if you can use it for parts. If you don't want a nice ride into the far eastern Sandhills, I'm sure we can come up with a different solution.

Is that offer available to anyone

 

[cobraguy]

Sure, but I want to give Mitch first right of refusal since I offered to him first.

 

[rcarmac]

Sure, but I want to give Mitch first right of refusal since I offered to him first.

Just let me know

 

[Yelverton]

Just let me know

Robert, if you want the jointer you should definitely jump on it and not wait for me. Clay, your offer is much appreciated but I can't make Robert wait for me.

Great that it's going to someone who will use it.

 

[rcarmac]

I’m not in any hurry. What parts were you needing off of it. Some top piece and the fence?

I mainly need the base and the motor mount

 

[Yelverton]

Considering how porous that level of cast iron is, it might be that JB weld will hold. Consider clamping some forms in place to index the dovetail. Rub the form stick (or whatever) with wax. Epoxy doesn't stick to wax. There should be a film of JB Weld that would raise the broken piece up just a wee bit so you can just feel it. The 'form' will likely a piece of straight steel to keep the dovetail surface true. What happens on the outside is merely a fit in the wind.

This is great advice. I still don't think I can pull it off, but with a solid plan it's worth a try.

Considering the orientation of the broken piece and the tackiness of the epoxy, I'm wondering how much effort I should put into clamping, if at all. My thought would be to sit the pieces together, align them with appropriate methods, and let gravity do the work, maybe using a few pieces of blue tape to hold things steady.

 

[Yelverton]

I’m not in any hurry. What parts were you needing off of it. Some top piece and the fence?

I mainly need the base and the motor mount

I don't think that parts only would be useful to me as my current jointer is a different model and I wouldn't want to disassemble a workable jointer. You should take it if you're interested.

 

[cobraguy]

Robert - PM sent