Cutting Tenons

[mtrager]

Probably asked a thousand times and I know there's no one answer. But what is your preferred method of cutting tenons - on the tablesaw, router table, bandsaw, other.

I have a bunch to cut and am looking for advice. These particular tenons are offset - i.e., not centered on the end.

Thanks in advance...

 

[Nativespec]

I have used my dado set on the table saw-that works ok, but the problem with the table saw method is lining up all four cuts. I tried the router table, but I got burn marks. I have a festool MF table and that works well for lining up the top and bottom cuts (using the stop) and I may finish with that saw or finish with the tenon jig on the table saw. I have purchased a Woodrat (should arrive today) and am looking forward to cutting tenons with that. I was going to buy a tenon jig, but the Woodrat makes more sense-unlimited possibilities. Also, I saw the Festool Domino at Klingspoor Saturday and was impressed with it-well machined. I don't like paying $200 for their bisquits, but I think I could make my own.

Thanks,

David

 

[Jim Murphy]

These particular tenons are offset - i.e., not centered on the end.

Haunched tenons, or some other kind of offset?

Nibble the narrow shoulders, slice the wide shoulder, and cheek cut with a tenoning jig on the tablesaw.

I tend to think there may other preferences, it depends on what's worked for each in the past.

 

[nelsone]

Generally I use the TS and just nibble off the waste. Woodcraft has their tenon jig on sale if you have to cut a lot of tenons.

 

[mtrager]

Thank you for your opinions -- I tried using my Dado Stack on the tablesaw today and that seems like an OK way to go. Hardest part (for me) was getting the blade height set correctly - would be nice if someone came up with a digital height gauge for the saw blade. Perhaps there is one but I am not aware of it.

 

[McRabbet]

Mitch,

I use my Freud SD-508 dado blade on my table saw as well and have found it to be the most accurate. I also have a sliding jig (see my Gallery) that was built for making raised panels, but it works great for cheek cuts, too. I prefer haunched tenons for the rails in my raised panel doors for added strength. For accurate heights, I use a guage from General Tool (they make one for setting router bits and one for tablesaws and they don't cost much).

Rob

 

[jeff...]

Tablesaw / fence / miter gauage = quick and easy

 

[Gofor]

Tablesaw / fence / miter gauage = quick and easy

Ditto, altho I would add I have a home-made tennon jig that I use as well.
Go

 

[photog]

I use the tablesaw and miter gauge to cut the shoulders first, and then cut the cheeks with a tenoning jig also on the tables saw.I find it important to cut my mortises first. Then I aim to make my cheek cuts just a bit thick and dry fit in the mortise. I’ll return the piece to the tenoning jig and dial in the small incremental adjustment to get that tenon to slide into a perfect fit. If your mortises are all consistent, you can then blaze away at cutting all the rest of the project’s tenons at that setting.

 

[rhett]

Unless doing a thru/wedged tenon, I have abandoned cutting tenons altogether. I have found that a floating tenon is quicker, easier and just as strong in most all woodworking applications.

 

[poppop]

ditto jeff
unless they are unusually large or haunched. i have a grizzly tenoning jig that i have used once or twice but setting it up take more time than i use with the table saw and stop block

 

[Monty]

My technique seems to vary according to the size of the project or piece I'm working on. With smaller pieces, I might go with the tenoning jig on the table saw. Since your tenons are offset I might suggest that technique with a spacer block for one of the cheek cuts. With larger/longer pieces (too tall to stand up securely on the table saw) I usually cut the shoulders on the table saw and then go to the bandsaw to cut the cheeks. I can use the fence with stop blocks to make quick work of it, and then fine-tune the fit of each joint with a block plane.

 

[junquecol]

Thank you for your opinions -- I tried using my Dado Stack on the tablesaw today and that seems like an OK way to go. Hardest part (for me) was getting the blade height set correctly - would be nice if someone came up with a digital height gauge for the saw blade. Perhaps there is one but I am not aware of it.

Shop Notes had a tip about a year ago using the HF digital calipers about a year ago. The plastic ones that are often on sale for $7.99. I made a set of templates when I made mine, so it wouldn't be hard to make you a "body". I use mine to set fence, height of blade, measure depth of cut, etc- priceless!

 

[Joe Scharle]

Woodrat really makes a 'machined' tenon. I've tried many methods over the years, but once I have made the stop block for any given tenon size it takes 2 quick passes to cut a perfect tenon on my Woodrat.
Next best favorite was with a sled on the router table.
When I'm making cope & stick panel doors I use floating tenons for added strenght.
After I wrote this, I went to the shop and dug this out. Haven't used it since i got my Woodrat but this is what I did use before. Hard to see, but that's a 1/2" spiral bit mounted.
RT Tenon Sled Jig