crosscut sleds?

[Jonz]

What design are you using? I just bought some incra sliders to build mine and would like to see what other are using.

 

[McRabbet]

Jonz,

I used 1/2" Baltic Birch for a base and screwed 3/8" by 3/4" hardwood strips after squaring the unit to the table top. Next, I raised the blade slowly through the plywood to wstablish where the cut line would be. Finally, I used a framing square to align the pushing fence (6/4 hard maple) at 90 degrees and clamped it in place. It was then screwed in place with 1-1/2" brass flathead screws; repeated for the back fence. I made mine large enough to handle 32" panels. If it sticks a little, use a cabinet scraper to ease the hardwood runners, and some parafin helps, too.

Hope this helps.

 

[Mike Wood]

A cross cut sled is one of the handiest tools in my shop.
I originally used hardwood runners on my cross cut sled but found it was too tight in the summer & too loose in the winter. I got metal runners and have been happy with them. No worries about them wearing out either.

 

[Jonz]

McRabbet, what are the dimensions of yours, as it looks like you have a 1023SL too.

 

[McRabbet]

1/2" plywood is 36" wide by 33" deep and fences are 46" long by 1-1/4" thick and extend to left side as shown in photo. Push side is 3-1/2" hi, while rear is 2-1/2" hi (available stock!). I plan to add a T-Track along the push fence for an adjustable stop (now I use a small clamp and scrap block) and a guard block on the exit side of the front for safety. It can cut up to 30" panel. BTW, one of my runners is hard maple, the other is UHMW polyethylene (from Lee Valley Tools). Both are secured with small brass FH screws and I have not had any serious binding problems like Mike suggested (it's pretty dry here in the mtns.)

And yep, it's a 1023SL, but the X version with extension fence that can be set at 52" from blade. Sweet.:saw:

McRabbet, what are the dimensions of yours, as it looks like you have a 1023SL too.

 

[DavidF]

Just a thought on runners: The runners do not need to be an exact fit in the mitre slots, unlike a single runner. The right hand runner will be hard up against the right side of the right slot and the left runner against the left face of the left slot, stopping any side to side movement. This way the runners can be narrower than the slot by a significant amount and should avoid the seasonal movement. If the sled base is dimensionally stable the fit should remain the same. Just fix one runner and fix the other one through tiny slots, put the sled on the table and push the moving runner hard up against the outside edge of the mitre slot. Add additional screws to the moving runner in drill through holes to stop it moving.

 

[TominZebulon]

Excellent idea David. Sometimes the answer is so easy and right there in front of me that I fail to see it. I just got the materials to build my sled and was wondering about my runners. I think I will try that idea and see how it works.

 

[DavidF]

Well it's certainly easier than fettling runners for an exact fit.

 

[DaveO]

This is my X-cut sled. No plans, just winged it. I used the Incra runners, and really like the fine adjustability of them. I made the area of the fence around the blade tall, and wide enough that there was not way I couls contact the blade as it passes through. I used some sort of plexiglass for another safety guard, and so I could line up my cuts. I think it will do 22". One of the most used shop projects. Dave

 

[Monty]

Scrap 1/2" plywood, couple of pieces of scrap 2x4. ;-)

 

[DavidF]

I know this thread should be dead, but I had another thought:idea:

If the front piece of the sled, furthest from operator was flush with the surface of the sled, more like a "bread board" end then the depth of the sled would not be the deciding factor in how wide a board can be cross cut. It would have to be applied after the first kerf cut was made and when being placed on the TS the blade would need to be lowered or the sled "placed" on the saw. However, the up side is that a 24" deep sled could cope with a much wider piece if the need was to arise

 

[Steve D]

One suggestion for an add on - a block at the back where the blade exits. The block encases the blade at the end of a cut so that it is not exposed. I also have mine set up so I can only push the sled far enough to complete the cut. Just adds a little safety to the operation :saw:

 

[Monty]

If the front piece of the sled, furthest from operator was flush with the surface of the sled, more like a "bread board" end then the depth of the sled would not be the deciding factor in how wide a board can be cross cut.

That is how David Marks' sled is constructed:




However, I don't understand how this really significantly increases the crosscut capacity of the sled. The first time you cut something wider than the sled, you'll cut right through your front support piece. Unless you make that piece replaceable? I suppose it WOULD allow you to cut an odd shaped piece, or a miter on a piece that that would otherwise bump into a vertical fence... :eusa_thin



Edit: incidentally, that is why I made the front (leading) fence on mine a little shorter -- well, that and it happened to be the length of the piece of 2x4 in my scrap bin at the time!!!! But so far I have not had the need for more clearance in that direction...

 

[chris99z71]

Personally, one of my main reasons for wanting to build a crosscut sled is the ability to not only do 90° cuts, but more accurate miters. I'd like to be able to do more accurate 45°s and possibly 22.5°s. I don't think it would be all that difficult to put in 3 positive stops for those angles. Is anyone using a setup like this?

 

[Jonz]

Insomniac you read my mind (scary in there, ain't it?)

Seems that unless you are willing to cut through the block you are still limited to a cut length.

 

[DavidF]

Point taken, but replacable might be an option for that one time you need that extra 1/2 inch of depth. Angled cuts would be the main reason for going this route.

 

[Steve D]

If you want a sled that can handle wider material then you need to stay to one side of the blade. I have a single runner sled with no front that I use for that type of cut. The challenge there is too wide of a board becomes unweildy as you pull the sled back. This is where the sliding tables are really the way to go.

 

[Joe Scharle]

I have a small one that I use for cutting small pieces. I use SCMS for all else. My SCMS came with the 'small piece cutoff launcher', no extra charge!

 

[TimRice]

Wouldn't another limiting factor for length of cut be how far back you can pull the sled before your runners fall out of the miter slots and the sled skews sideways?

I would suspect (never owned a TS to date, but planning on it soon!!) that even with an in-feed support it would be tough to hold everything inline to keep the cut accurate and safe.

 

[McRabbet]

Tim,
My sled (pics earlier in this thread) was made to handle the panels I glued up to make some 33" high x 24" wide raised panel doors -- with the 2-3/8" rails and stiles, I had to trim to 28-5/8". So, I made sure I could handle a 30" cut. I do need to be careful when I start the cut to hold both the sled and the panel firmly as the sled is near the balance point at the front edge of my TS (I have 16" from the axis of the blade to the front edge of my 10" cabinet saw, so the runners are firmer planted). And, I have a good size outfeed table with dados that align with the 2 miter slots to allow me to push the sled past the blade. I would not make a sled this size for a smaller TS.
:icon_thum 3 more safety points -- I'm going to add a guard block on the operator side, I never start the saw until the sled and piece are in place to cut, and I shut the saw off when the cut is done without moving the sled back toward me.

Wouldn't another limiting factor for length of cut be how far back you can pull the sled before your runners fall out of the miter slots and the sled skews sideways?

I would suspect (never owned a TS to date, but planning on it soon!!) that even with an in-feed support it would be tough to hold everything inline to keep the cut accurate and safe.