Mark:
Thanks for the suggestions I actually cleaned the arbor face last night and it didn't have any burrs just one tiny spot of surface rust. The blade on there right now is not a great one when I start it and stare down the line of it does not look like it is fluttering, but my father is coming down this weekend with his dial indicator so I'll use it to check the arbor for runout and align the saw.
Dial Indicator will be very helpful. Check Arbor face and blade at 90 and 45. If things are not square this will help ferret it out.
Bruce:
Thanks, I think "the project" has turned out better than I imagined. A buddy of mine powder coated the crank handles and the motor mount it all turned out nicely and I ace rattle canned the rest. Also great deal on that Delta. I figure you'll have it restored and ready for sale or as a second saw and save time on blade changes. For the fence I went with the Delta T2 (Bies Lite), I was thinking about waiting for your unifence, but there are two small home projects I need the saw for in the next month. So I went ahead and got the T2 at a good price online. Gives my Dad and I something to mount on the saw this weekend anyhow.
RE: T2. It is a great Fence. I used exisiting holes in my Craftsman and it made the fence ride about 1/4" above the table. Made a wooden sleeve to fit over fence and that took care of that.
Questions:
1. Currently with a 3" drive pulley and 2.35" arbor pulley I'm getting approx 4400 rpm at the arbor. When I order from inline should I just get two 2.25" pulleys or maybe one 2.25" and one 2.5" to give me about 3800rpm (motor is 3450 @ 1.5hp). I guess the question is what is the ideal speed for the blade and what OD pulley's should I order?
I checked mine and I am using a 2.5" pulley on motor and 2.25" on blade to get 3800 rpm which is what Craftsman tool manual calls for.
2. For the bearing removal do I need to remove the casting piece that holds the arbor bearings to the trunions, it sounds like I can simply:
1) Remove the pulley from the arbor.
2) Remove the retaining nut from the pulley side of the pulley side arbor bearing.
3) Tap out the arbor with a mallet or dead blow hammer from the pulley side.
4) Remove the pulley side bearing via heating the casting and possibly tapping out with a socket on the outer race or maybe the retaining nut was doing all the work so it will just fall out, dunno.
5) Remove the blade side bearing with a gear/bearing puller.
6) This is wear I'm confused wouldn't I want to freeze rather than heat the bearing and the arbor so they contract making the bearing slip onto the arbor easier? Also possibly heat the casting to make them slide in easier?
7) Freeze the pulley side bearing then slide it onto the arbor.
8) Put nut and pulley back on
9) Buy you both a beer for your advice :gar-La;
Would need to see photos and parts breakdown, but I'm guessing you would be better off removing the unit from machine to work on it. Basically put shaft in freezer for a while. When ready, heat bearings on light bulb and place on shaft. I have sometimes lubed a shaft with gear oil. Have everything in place including various pipe/sockets to press on bearings. Move quickly.
3. When not in use should I leave the motor on the belt or should I remove it from the belt and let it hang down?