Color matching Stain

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woodydiver

New User
curt
Hello,
I built a book case out of select pine and hardwood plywood. It is my first attempt at a complete book case. it hasent turned out too bad.
Now i am trying to match the color to an existing bed frame. I believe the existing furniture was finished with a polyshade finish over pine.
I didnt want to use a polyshade, i thought using a oil based finish and then covering with a poly finish would look nicer.
i applied a pre stain conditioner to some sample pieces and have put up to 3 coats of oil based stain on the samples. Even after 3 coats the color still
seams pale.
How may coats of stain does it usually take to get to an even golden color on pine?
would water based stain be better?
Or should i just bite the bullet and use the poly shade?
any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks , curt
 

adowden

Amy
Corporate Member
Curt,

First I want to state that I am no finishing expert - the process kinda terrifies me. I have done alot of reading recently. Bob Flexner recommends using a gel stain on pine because it "doesn't penetrate as much, so it doesn't amplify the contrast as much." This helps with any blotchyness.

Also how much stain you have to apply depends alot on the brand and color. Minwax is a thinner stain compared to some others (except for their gel stains). Zar is much thicker and similar to a gel stain. Be sure to totally finish it (stain and poly before you compare it to your other piece). The poly can change the color quite dramatically.

As far as polyshades go, I would strongly advise against them. I used them one time on a red oak swordcase that my in-law wanted to look like cherry (but she was too cheep to pay for cherry) and was very disappointed. It was darker in the corners despite my best efforts. Since you are matching an existing piece, I think separate staining and then poly would be better. Good Luck!

Amy
 

woodydiver

New User
curt
thanks,
i does seam like the minwax is too thin , i put some on a piece of red oak and it is twice as dark as the pine with three coats. i left the stain on for at least 5 min. but dosent seam to help with the pine.
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
How much pre-stain conditioner did you use? That does limit the absorption of the stain, somewhat. You might consider using a spit coat of de-waxed shellac, about a 1/2# cut and then try the stain, and see if you have better results. Also try a test piece with just the straight stain to see it's full effect.
Amy advice on Polyshades is excellent , run away fast. I have never heard of anyone have good results with that product.
Dave:)
 
J

jeff...

OMG - Ester I'm coming to join you honey, with a can of minwax in my hand.
 

NCPete

New User
Pete Davio
matching pine to another wood???? aAAAAAGH. I spent an entire day trying to find a match for some guy that bought pine - paint grade at that - shoe molding to go over his cheap 'burn toast' colored oak parquet floor.

I do not envy your task.
 

woodguy1975

New User
John
First polyshades is not the finish you want to use. I'll try to refrain from calling in junk.

Seal the peice with shellac and use gel stains to set the initial color. If you need to tweek it a bit darker then seal and glaze it. You can also seal and use a toner to get a better color match, but figuring your are wiping the stain you will want to use gel stain over a sealed wood surface and maybe use a little glaze to shift the tint if needed. Don't be afraid to mix stains to get the color you need. After all they are just pigments in a carrier.

Good Luck,

John
 

rbdoby

New User
Rick
I use Minwax Golden Oak stain on pine to give it a aged and golden color. Wipe it on to control the color. Good luck matching your furniture.
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
I used golden oak minwax oil stain and poly over it to match some existing store-bought oak furniture (entertainment center). Check my gallery for the DVD shelves and end table to see what it came out like. I found that after 2 coats, more stain did little good in changing the appearance. Only the edges of the DVD shelves are SYP (the main panels are lowes arauco ply). The door, drawer and top of the end table are SYP. The polyshades work but you may want to thin them some and wipe on til you get the shade. Over the golden oak, the "neutral" or "pecan" may give the color you want.
The bed frame was probably a lacquer spray coating, so what you get out of the store will be a trial & error sort of match at this stage.
Realize that if you put a glossier coating on it, it will look a bit "darker" as it will appear more like it does when it is wet.

Hope this helps
Go
 
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