Coffee Table

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JimD

Jim
Senior User
Steve,

It depends a lot on where I have to go to get more. If I am using softwood from the big box store, I take a quick stab at how much I need - thinking mainly about what lengths will minimize waste, hook up the trailer and drag some home. Usually I underestimate and have to go back. But it is a 15 minute trip so not a big deal.

For hardwood, I am driving at least an hour and a half. So for that I lay out what I need much more carefully and then buy maybe 20% extra. Sometimes you get a price break for buying 100 bd ft and if I am at all close I do that. As a consequence, I have some nice cherry sitting on the rack that has been there for maybe 10 years. But I have a cherry project I hope to get to this year.

A more typical rule of thumb is 10% extra. But the shorter the pieces you get the more waste you will have.

Jim
 

Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
Steve
Two things.
1. A 3x4 foot coffee table is large. As with almost all furniture I build, I would do a mock up of this piece - in luan flooring or cardboard or old scrap plywood - and put it in place for a few days. That way you will have a much better sense of whether the size works. I often do a reasonable copy made form 2x4s and luan to get a sense for scale of lags and angles etc. Of course you may already know that this size works. In that case ignore Pt1.
2. Waste - is really a function of the both the material you source and the project. Small pieces in the project often allow you to use almost all the material - depending on how particular you need to be with regard to grain and color. Select grade material will allow large clear cuttings; #2 common material not so much. The other grades are in between.
I typically buy material with a fairly clear plan; for example these 4 boards will make up the table top, these 2 for the 4 legs, this one for the stretcher and 4 apron pieces. So waste is minimal, but even there I'd say I have at least 20% waste. I am typically building in hardwoods and am concerned with grain and color matches. You are much less likely to be concerned about knots and clear cuttings as this Etsy linked piece appears to be made of pine - as I assume yours will be.

Hope that helps
 

dazart

New User
Steve
I went to the Wurth Group this afternoon to look at different types of wood and chickened out.

I'm sure I'm making a mountain out of a molehill, but I just felt like I didn't know what I was doing. :)
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
Usually a 20-30% overage is a good rule of thumb when buying rough cut lumber for a little wiggle room which allows for defaults in the lumber.

I think this is going to be my first project using rough cut lumber.

Where are you going to get the lumber and what kind of wood are you planning to use (pine, oak, etc)? Many suppliers will surface the wood for a small additional fee so it's ready to use when you get it home.

Your table top alone is about 9 board feet (add 30% = 12 bf). 5 boards about 7.25" w x 3/4" t. I redesign the clunky leg base to make it more streamlined.

Before you go any further make/draw a plan for the entire table from top to bottom.
 
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Jeff

New User
Jeff
I went to the Wurth Group this afternoon to look at different types of wood and chickened out.

I'm sure I'm making a mountain out of a molehill, but I just felt like I didn't know what I was doing. :)

Did you at least look at different types of wood for general information? Wurth Group is the last place that I'd go shopping.

That's understandable because you don't have a written hardcopy plan for the table so you can't do your homework to figure out the quantities needed before you go anywhere.
 

dazart

New User
Steve
I had drawn up a basic sketch for the top at least, so I could start with that. I haven't done anything except buying wood from Lowe's/Home Depot, so this was my first attempt at finding a place to buy 'real' lumber.

Wurth seemed to be the closest so I went there.
 

zdorsch

Zach
Corporate Member
How close do you want your coffee table to match the one on Etsy? Are you looking to mimic one of the finishes or were you thinking of using a particular type of lumber with a natural finish? I think if going for the white antiqued finish pine from the box store would work well if worried about cost.

The top looks like it may be plywood with a solid edge banding (2x6 maybe).

The legs seem like some simple pine trim butted together and the base looks like 2x8.
 

dazart

New User
Steve
That's where my lack of experience (and the wife's) comes in. She's not entirely sure what she wants. She likes the picture on etsy, and when we went to Wurth and looked at the woods they had, she liked the look of the soft maple, but then she said also said she thinks it would look good if she stained it a little darker.

My thought was if she wants to stain it, it doesn't really matter what wood we use, but if she wants the natural wood and a clear finish, then it would. :\

I'm trying to put something together in sketchup - at least the top. Those legs...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dmtHdzWUEiE9eMKa6
 
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DSWalker

David
Corporate Member
For the legs I'd consider looking for some 'cut-offs' of either 6"x 6" or 8"x 8" posts. Or just buy a 6' or 8' one if you can find it. Then you just have to add the trim around the bottom and build the floor base. Would likely be more stable than trying to build a large square leg out of 1" or even 2" material. The top doesn't look to difficult to assemble. Do you plan to use 2" material for the top?

Go for it. You can do it. :)
 

dazart

New User
Steve
I was wondering how heavy it would be at 2" (and expensive?). I thought if I got 1" by the time it was square/parallel it would be about 3/4"?
 

DSWalker

David
Corporate Member
I was wondering how heavy it would be at 2" (and expensive?). I thought if I got 1" by the time it was square/parallel it would be about 3/4"?
The Etsy photos appear to be 2" material, at least for the sides. That is why I was asking. I then noticed your sketchup drawing and saw it looked like 1". Only concern with the 1" would be how sturdy the top would be. With only 2 legs that are centered, it could be a lot less structurally sound if someone were to sit on an end or corner. (not that anyone should, but things happen). 2", likely planed to about 1.5" would offer a little more substance to secure the top to those legs.
 

JohnnyR

John
Corporate Member
I'd be concerned with the "frame" opening up in the corners when the wood in the table expands. If the top is to be rough, I'd consider re-sawing your own veneer and gluing it on a firm substrate of MDF or Ply to avoid the expansion issue.
 
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