Butternut sawing

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chestnuthunter

New User
Jonathan
I have a few logs of butternut from my small woodlot/farm which I need to turn into usable dimensions in the near future. Trying to decide what dimensions are best. I'm thinking 5/4 as thats what I'll mill up some Wild Cherry which will be sawn at the same time but welcome any input. Is there much demand for butternut? It's going to go into the lumber shed for a couple of years and I'm a bit concerned about PPB. Might sell or barter if there is any demand.

have 4 logs with largest about 18-20 inches at butt end smallest dimension at ~14. Doyle scale says about 200 bft.
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
Jonathan, welcome to our saw dust pile and thanks for joining us.

I can't offer any advice on 4/4, 5/4 sawing etc. Are you using a WoodMizer or a chainsaw mill? First you should decide whether you want to saw for maximum lumber yield or top quality (flat sawn or quarter sawn?). Quarter sawn looks pretty interesting in the pic.

http://www.hearnehardwoods.com/hard...tic_wood/butternut_lumber/butternut_wood.html

It's going to go into the lumber shed for a couple of years and I'm a bit concerned about PPB. Might sell or barter if there is any demand.

Butternut does appear to be susceptible to bugs and rot.

http://www.wood-database.com/butternut/

Doyle scale says about 200 bft.

Total or per log? A 14" d x 16' log = 100bf according to this table.

https://wunderwoods.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/doyle-log-scale-wunderwoods1.jpg
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
Jerry, do you glue up narrower boards to make your Windsor chair seats? I played with the idea to make an EWP stool seat (2 x 7.5") because a 15" w board wasn't available.

P1010001_2_.png


P10100018.png

 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Having sawn some oak, black walnut, pine, and sweet gum as an amateur with a chainsaw mill, I would say you want a mix. Definitely 5/4 (as opposed to 4/4) for the majority, but it is always good to have some matching 8/4 for seats, etc.

For heavy posts (12/4+) for table legs, etc, I have only done oak, and I hand split those and then used a froe and axe to get a rift sawn grain (looks like quarter sawn on all 4 faces of the post). Not sure how you would accomplish that on a mill, and for cherry, you may have to hew them with an ax (due to the grain characteristics, a froe may not work well). Heavy posts also take forever to air dry. To get 4 posts, you will need a minimum of a 16"-18" diameter log, but because posts normally don't have to be as long, can be from a 3'-4' log.

jmtcw

Go
 

walnutjerry

Jerry
Senior User
Yes, I do glue up narrower 8/4 to make up a 20"x20" seat blank. made my first chair in 1996 and do not know of a problem with any of the seats I have glued up.

Jerry
 

chestnuthunter

New User
Jonathan
I'll be using or rather hiring a local sawyer with a portable bandsaw. Yes I am a bit concerned about the condition of some of the logs. One was just cut and should be in good shape if I can get it treated soon. Anyone ever use Timbor?

I'll have to go back and check the measurements on the various logs. I was remembering 200 bd ft total for all four logs but was working from memory.

I'm holding out hope that one particular log is spalted but may just wind up with a rotten wormy mess :nah:
 

chestnuthunter

New User
Jonathan
Having sawn some oak, black walnut, pine, and sweet gum as an amateur with a chainsaw mill, I would say you want a mix. Definitely 5/4 (as opposed to 4/4) for the majority, but it is always good to have some matching 8/4 for seats, etc.

For heavy posts (12/4+) for table legs, etc, I have only done oak, and I hand split those and then used a froe and axe to get a rift sawn grain (looks like quarter sawn on all 4 faces of the post). Not sure how you would accomplish that on a mill, and for cherry, you may have to hew them with an ax (due to the grain characteristics, a froe may not work well). Heavy posts also take forever to air dry. To get 4 posts, you will need a minimum of a 16"-18" diameter log, but because posts normally don't have to be as long, can be from a 3'-4' log.

jmtcw

Go

Sounds like some 8/4 might be useful for seats but stick with 5/4 for everything else. I made the mistake of cutting a lot of dimensional variety on a large cherry a decade ago and it was a pain to sticker and dry correctly.
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
Sounds like some 8/4 might be useful for seats but stick with 5/4 for everything else. I made the mistake of cutting a lot of dimensional variety on a large cherry a decade ago and it was a pain to sticker and dry correctly.

I forgot to send this link to you. It's the only butternut flitch that Hearne had available (about 300 bf). Each board has a brief description including bugs, rot, other defects, etc. It's a 4/4 and 5/4 mix averaging about 18" w.

http://www.hearnehardwoods.com/flitch/butternut/a5569-a5581.butternut/flitch.html

Board #5573. Hearne says "Might be best piece in log".

http://www.hearnehardwoods.com/flitch/butternut/a5569-a5581.butternut/detailed/JPEG/05.jpg

Board #5581. 2" t with pith checking.

http://www.hearnehardwoods.com/flitch/butternut/a5569-a5581.butternut/detailed/JPEG/12.jpg
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
Butternut is an excellent carving wood. It and basswood are the premier wood for chip carvers.

Wide boards are nice for large plates.

You may want to consider advertising it to carvers.
 

richlife

New User
Rich
I'll be using or rather hiring a local sawyer with a portable bandsaw. Yes I am a bit concerned about the condition of some of the logs. One was just cut and should be in good shape if I can get it treated soon. Anyone ever use Timbor?

I'll have to go back and check the measurements on the various logs. I was remembering 200 bd ft total for all four logs but was working from memory.

I'm holding out hope that one particular log is spalted but may just wind up with a rotten wormy mess :nah:

I've used both Timbor liquid and Bora-Care concentrate. The Bora-Care is easier to apply and has worked very well to prevent infestation. Since it is liquid, there is a slight penetration which helps with the effectiveness.
 

richlife

New User
Rich
I just received some Timbor. As soon as I can get the log in the tractor shed I'm going to spray it.

thanks!

I see that I said "Timbor liquid" -- sorry, I meant powder. The Bora-care was a liquid and, as I indicated, I found the liquid easier to work with and apply.

Keep in mind that there is actually limited penetration, so applying it to a log will not get to the interior. Reapply after you have planks. I used a 2' garden sprayer wand to spray between the planks after the boards were stickered.
 

Danny Batchelor

Danny
User
Still not experiencing freezing temps yet but when you mix your Timbor don’t let it freeze as it is a salt and you will have a real mess getting it out of a garden pump sprayer. Mix it and use it. Don’t let it set around in a liquid state in cold climes. Just saying.
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
I've used both Timbor liquid and Bora-Care concentrate. The Bora-Care is easier to apply and has worked very well to prevent infestation. Since it is liquid, there is a slight penetration which helps with the effectiveness.

20 Mule Team Borax

download (5).jpg
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
20 Mule Team Borax

attachment.php

Works a bit better if you add boric acid (roach proof, etc).

With Christmas coming in a few months, a mix of 3 oz boric acid + 5 oz borax dissolved in 2 qts of warm water sprayed on a natural Christmas tree will not only help it keep its needles, but will make it fire retardant as well.

Go
 
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