Best finish for flooring

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weelis

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weelis
In the opinion of the gurus out there, what is the "best" finish to apply to wooden floors? I have old barn board floors so the species varies. Thinking polyurethane but don't want to be a lemming and do what everyone else does. Any particular brand better than others. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
 

SkintKnuckle

New User
Martin
About 9 or 10 years ago, I replaced all my pine stair treads to the upstairs with oak. I used a solvent based semigloss Varathane that I got from one of the big box stores.

It's held up very well, I'd use it again for my floors. The only drawback were the fumes, be sure you have good ventilation or move out for a day or so.
 

Kicbak

New User
Wes
I sanded the floors at our previous house and used AFM safecoat. So little vapor that we just cracked a window. Its a low VOC water based product. I remember it being about $90 a gallon but I would use it again on furniture as well. Least toxic smelling stuff I have ever used.
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
My shop floor is just OSB but I used three coats of Minwax Fast Drying Urethane Satin Finish. It dries quickly, and has held up very well. It is very easy to sweep up the sawdust and chips. Got it at Lowes and it is not super-expensive. Applied with a mop-like applicator I also got at Lowes.

Yes it does stink a little while drying - I opened the window of the shop - dries quick though. The second and third coats didn't need near as much material - guess the first coat soaked in more.
 

junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
We use Varathane Diamond Floor finish. It dries crystal clear, and being water based, can be recoated in about an hour. Lowes stocks it, costs about $50 a gallon including tax. You put it down with a "lamb's wool" applicator.
 

tarheelz

Dave
Corporate Member
I'm surprised our NCWW crowd hasn't suggested Waterlox yet. Flooring was its originally designed purpose.

Unfortunately, it's ain't cheap.
 

Bob Carreiro

New User
Bob
A couple of houses back, I used three coats of Gym Seal (directions called for 1 coat for normal traffic, 2 coats for heavy traffic, and 3 coats for commercial applications) on new Oak. Lived there about 10 years after the build and the only area that showed any signs of wear at all was in front of the rear sliding doors leading to a deck and earth. We kept no rug there since it also doubled as a landing for a circular stair case. In time, small scratches began to appear where dirt would reside. But for the rest of the Oak throughout the house, it was flawless. Would I use it again? Yes, in a heartbeat!

As the name implies, it is (or was?) a commercial product. Don't remember the price, but remember thinking it was expensive at the time - 80's - early 90's.
 

thrt15nc

New User
Tom
Ken, is it slick to walk on with sawdust on it? Any more so than anything else?

Tom

My shop floor is just OSB but I used three coats of Minwax Fast Drying Urethane Satin Finish. It dries quickly, and has held up very well. It is very easy to sweep up the sawdust and chips. Got it at Lowes and it is not super-expensive. Applied with a mop-like applicator I also got at Lowes.

Yes it does stink a little while drying - I opened the window of the shop - dries quick though. The second and third coats didn't need near as much material - guess the first coat soaked in more.
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
It can get a little slick with fine sawdust, but is easy to sweep up. Never had a problem with rubber-sole shoes but noticed a little slickness when I was out there in moccasins once. Not any more than anything else I would guess.

You definitely wouldn't want to polish it with wax and then walk on it in socks unless you wanted to pretend to ice-skate.

Hasn't really been a problem.
 

pezking7p

New User
Pezking
+1 for Waterlox.

I just refinished the old pine floors in my house using 3 coats original waterlox, and 1 coat satin waterlox. The final product is amazingly beautiful, and lets the wood character shine.

I chose waterlox because if you put poly over pine (or other soft woods), any dings or gouges will eventually start to crack and peel, and repair is difficult.
 

Tom King

New User
Tom
Moisture Cure Urethane. I've been using it since the late '70s. I know one house in particular that I remodeled in 1982 still has the finish on the floors. I have it in our house that I built in 1980. Not for the faint of heart to apply. You get one shot, and it cures so fast you can't go back over it until it's dry enough for another coat.
 

scsmith42

New User
Scott Smith
Bona floor care products are excellent. They make both oil based and water-borne poly in residential and commercial grades.

http://www.bona.com/en-US/United-States1/BonaSystem/Professional-Series-Floor-Care/

This would be my recommendation as well. Be sure that you use a product that is "non-yellowing", as many finishes will turn yellow with age.

Moisture Cure Poly's, as recommended by Tom in this thread, are also extremely durable, and the non-yellowing versions are what I used in my own house. The fumes are extremely toxic; you will need a good respirator when applying and need to be out of the house for at least a day while it cures.
 
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