Beginning woodblock carving advice?

[jarrett]

I came across this video on indian wood block printing and became interested in trying it out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-qLUPW4KfI#t=46s

Anyone have some advice on how I could get started? I like the with-the-grain, mallet & chisel style carving, but I'm not sure if that makes a difference in technique and tools. (I define wood block as with the grain, vs. woodcut which is perpendicular).

Tools: What should I look for? Since I'd want to do mallet work at this scale, are there particular handle types I'm looking for? I'm assuming I'd stay away from palm type handles, and I'd want to get sturdier steel (so probably not flexcut).
Would something like this Ramuelson set from Klingspors be a good starter for this type of work?
http://www.woodworkingshop.com/cgi-bin/2014128F/mac/additmdtl.mac/showItemDetail?item=RA00116

Wood: Wikipedia states that "box, lime, holly, sycamore, plane or pear wood" is used, and I've seen maple mentioned as well. I'm guessing sycamore will be the easiest to get around here, but does anyone have any suggestions for what type of wood to start with?

My carving experience is basically adze/gouge bowl work, so basically consider me a beginner. Thanks for the help!

 

[Charles Lent]

Most of the straight handle carving tools will be fine. Be prepared to have to do the finish sharpening on them after you buy them, no matter what brand you buy. You should also buy a beatle (woodcarvers mallet). I tried to look at the Klingspore link to see your choices, but it wouldn't open for me.

For wood choices, most any of the fine grained softer hard woods will be easiest to carve. I like basswood and Mahogany. Poplar isn't bad either. Pine will give you much frustration, so stay away from it, at least for your first attempts. Whichever wood you use, try to find completely clear grained wood with no wild grain or knots.

As for technique, it will come to you with practice. Just try to cut away any part of the wood that doesn't look like what you are making. Pencil lines drawn on the surface help. You will likely re-draw them many times as you work. I do whenever it starts to get difficult to visualize the details.

Most of the carving that I have done is power carving with rotary tools (dentist drill type), but I do have a set of carving chisels and a beatle for doing bigger work, but I'm better at the smaller power carving than I am with the chisels.

Charley

 

[ScottM]

STAVE is one of our carving experts on site. He carves for a living and also teaches it. If he does not see your post after a couple days PM him with your questions. He is a super guy.

 

[KenOfCary]

I've been trying to drum up interest in getting Stave to do another beginner carving class in the RTP area. So far only 3 of us have shown interest. Can we add you to the list and make it 4?

- Ken.

 

[stave]

Jarrett,

The blocks for the Indian style block printing are actually done by carving the end grain. They cut the log into slabs and work from there. The slabs are filed flat, the design is either transferred or carved through the paper pattern. Most are carved in teak or a similar wood due to the consistant grain, density and workability. After carving, the blocks are soaked in oil to condition the wood and to keep the print material from soaking into the wood. This enables them to change colors by just wiping the block clean and helps to prevent cracking.

I don't know what size blocks you will be working on but an intermediate size tool would work well and may cost a little less than the professional length tool. Henry Taylor and Pfiel both sell this intermediate style. Stubai, Two Cherry and others are good tools as well. I have not used and don't know anyone that uses the Ramelson tools so I cannot speak to their quality. A mallet probably will not be required but if you do use one I would suggest a solid wood version of a light weight. The rubber versions absorb the power of the blows and just create more work. For delicate work they also are a little clumsy.

Don't know what kind of material you have access to but if you are carving from boards then mahogany, sapele, maple, sycamore or any of the fruit woods like apple, walnut or pear would work. Basswood is a little to soft, cherry is to brittle for the fine lines, oak has to open a grain. If you are working from end grain slabs then you can add cherry or just about any closed pored hard wood to the mix including poplar.

The majority of the decisions concerning tools and wood are really dependent on what kind of designs you will be carving. By this I mean whether they are fine lines like the India style designs or designs that look more like the European woodblock designs which far more varied in line thickness and flat surfaces.

I would be more than happy to help in any way that I can but would need more info and your direction. The course I offer may be of help to you, PM me and we can talk some specifics.

Stave

 

[jarrett]

Thanks for all the advice! I think I will start out with a small set and some turning blocks and see how it goes.

I have my apple wood "club" that I use with my benchwork, so I will be using that as my mallet.