Basement Workshop setup.....need input !!

Wolfpacker

New User
Brent
Brent,

I built my shop in my basement and like yours, I had exposed block walls, exposed ductwork and limited ceiling height. Like KenofCary, I waterproofed the block walls and added a 2x4 stud wall that I insulated to better hold heat/cool since it was in unconditioned space. I did my own wiring (to code) and added 2 x 4 foot fluorescent fixtures (four T-8 bulbs each) on 3-way switches at each end of each shop room (I have two rooms; one 15 x 25 and one 10 by 30). Fortunately, I have a high crawl space under my shop for my dust collection equipment and runs.

Since I live in Hendersonville, I'd be happy to come over to lend my advice on layout and future wiring needs; just send me a PM. By the way, there is a good shop layout planner available for free from Grizzly Tools at this link.

Rob Payne
A big thanks to Rob for coming by on Saturday and spending time with me. Gave me lots to think about as you all have with your replies. Keep 'em coming.
Brent
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
I just received an email with a promotion on Dricore sub-floor. Hopefully you can take advantage of this as well - highly recommended in a basement or garage shop.

dricorelogo.png
banner-promo2.png
For the months of March and April, DRICORE is giving away a $25 gift card for every 100 panels purchased to help turn your basement into a room that is as comfortable as any other room in your house.

DRICORE Subfloor should always be used when finishing a basement to protect against mold & mildew, to insulate against cold concrete and to cushion finished floors from the hard surface. Plus it is easy to install!

Watch this video from Bryan Baeumler, HGTV Host, who shares his experience in working with DRICORE.
Here is what you have to do:
1.
Go to dricore.com/spring-promotion and sign up for our Spring Promotion
2. Purchase DRICORE® Subfloor panels.
3. Email us a picture of your receipt to Rewards@agtproductsinc.com
Use the stuff with the blue foam, not the black plastic for comfort and a little better insulation.
 

TENdriver

New User
TENdriver
For military, that’s about $1.10 per square foot of Dricore.

I’m not aware of much else that you can get at such a reasonable price per foot.


I didn’t see the blue foam version on first look. That’s more like a $1.52 a square foot.
 
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Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
On the equipment that doesn't recycle and could start back up unexpectedly after a power failure / restart I've added some plugs that prevent a restart after a power failure. They require the equipment to be power cycled before it can be re-used. These are mainly connected to my band saws as they don't have internal safeguards for this.
Ken,
Could post what you used or a link to the product?
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
Dricore-R+ was Special Order from Home Depot, might also be available from Lowes. As I mentioned get the one with the Blue Foam Backing not the Black Hard Plastic. Both have channels to allow any water or condensation to be able to run off. The black back hard plastic won't provide cushioning for your feet and requires shimming to match uneven floors. The Blue Foam back stuff will flex enough to accommodate some unevenness.

What I used is what the guy in the first picture of the email ad is holding. Highly recommended.

I used a similar product called Barricade OVRX in my first shop, but it seems to no longer be available via retail. I actually like the Dricore-R+ better. It has a denser foam that holds up better to heavy equipment. I had a couple of the corners of the OVRX crush when moving equipment over them. The Dricore-R+ drainage pattern doesn't have this problem.

Oops, in re-reading Hanks reply, I responded to the wrong question. The power interrupter thingys are these:


It's called a
SafetyGate™ Professional Retrofit Restart Protection Electrical Plug

If the power goes out and then comes back on the equipment plugged into it will not restart until it has been power cycled. I use it on all my 110V Band Saws.
 

Wolfpacker

New User
Brent
I just received an email with a promotion on Dricore sub-floor. Hopefully you can take advantage of this as well - highly recommended in a basement or garage shop.

Use the stuff with the blue foam, not the black plastic for comfort and a little better insulation.
Not sure how I came across it, but another brand of subfloor is Barricade and they are running the same promotion. Looks like they have the two styles like Dricore does.

Do I recall seeing that you put another layer of OSB on top of the Dricore ? Is that what they recommend....Dricore alone not a good option ?
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
Not sure how I came across it, but another brand of subfloor is Barricade and they are running the same promotion. Looks like they have the two styles like Dricore does.

Do I recall seeing that you put another layer of OSB on top of the Dricore ? Is that what they recommend....Dricore alone not a good option ?

In my office area in the new shop basement, I put a finished floor of laminated click-lock floating flooring above the Dricore-R+, but in the shop it is just the Dricore-R+ which I painted gray. In the old shop I used Barricade OVRX, which I just used Minwax Floor Urethane on. I've found I like the Dricore-R+ better than the OVRX and I also found that painting it gray is better than finishing with a clear finish. The OSB top with a clear finish becomes like camouflage for any screws or other things dropped on it.
 

Wolfpacker

New User
Brent
In my office area in the new shop basement, I put a finished floor of laminated click-lock floating flooring above the Dricore-R+, but in the shop it is just the Dricore-R+ which I painted gray. In the old shop I used Barricade OVRX, which I just used Minwax Floor Urethane on. I've found I like the Dricore-R+ better than the OVRX and I also found that painting it gray is better than finishing with a clear finish. The OSB top with a clear finish becomes like camouflage for any screws or other things dropped on it.
OK, that's where I saw the Barricade brand. Upon a second look, I now see that it doesn't have the channels in the foam bottom side like the Dricore-R+ does. I saw where Dricore has "smart panels" to create walls in a basement, but before looking for pricing I saw that you can only run 15 amp circuits in them, so I believe that kills that idea.
 

Wolfpacker

New User
Brent
I've been looking at how to put up stud walls and it seems to me that I need to reconfigure the vertical radon pvc piping to be inside of the stud walls whereas now I'd have them within the room, within the wall and in the gap between the block wall and stud wall....see pics. I can re-plumb them to fit within the workspace as that seems to be the best option I can think of. I don't want to place a stud wall over a ft away from the block wall to keep them in the air gap....lose too much workspace. Same goes for sewer drain pipe on North wall. Also have to try and avoid conflicts in the radon piping and future DC piping since I haven't come up with a layout yet. The pvc piping is 3", so has an OD of about 3.5" and slightly larger at the fittings.

Your thoughts on this ?
 

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KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
Fortunately, my Radon piping was in the utility room area that I didn't finish - along with the water well pressure tank and A/C Heat Pump air handler - so I didn't need to frame around them. I did have the main septic cleanout leave the wall in the middle of the office space so I had to move that wall out about 4-6" to be flush with the cleanout opening.

Again, let me know if you want to take a trip to the Parkway and visit here on the way. I'd be happy to show you what I've done - even if it isn't the best way to do things, it is one way to do things.

I had a lot of help from our members here with more experience than me, including Phil S, Bill Clemmons, JohnnyR, Micheal Mathews, and others when I was getting started. Hope I haven't forgotten somebody who helped out - It was really appreciated as I was overwhelmed at first.
 

Wolfpacker

New User
Brent
Fortunately, my Radon piping was in the utility room area that I didn't finish - along with the water well pressure tank and A/C Heat Pump air handler - so I didn't need to frame around them. I did have the main septic cleanout leave the wall in the middle of the office space so I had to move that wall out about 4-6" to be flush with the cleanout opening.

Again, let me know if you want to take a trip to the Parkway and visit here on the way. I'd be happy to show you what I've done - even if it isn't the best way to do things, it is one way to do things.

I had a lot of help from our members here with more experience than me, including Phil S, Bill Clemmons, JohnnyR, Micheal Mathews, and others when I was getting started. Hope I haven't forgotten somebody who helped out - It was really appreciated as I was overwhelmed at first.
Thanks for the invitation, but it appears you are about 4 hours away from me. I'll get it figured out after I contemplate on it long enough !
 

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
I've been looking at how to put up stud walls and it seems to me that I need to reconfigure the vertical radon pvc piping to be inside of the stud walls whereas now I'd have them within the room, within the wall and in the gap between the block wall and stud wall....see pics. I can re-plumb them to fit within the workspace as that seems to be the best option I can think of. I don't want to place a stud wall over a ft away from the block wall to keep them in the air gap....lose too much workspace. Same goes for sewer drain pipe on North wall. Also have to try and avoid conflicts in the radon piping and future DC piping since I haven't come up with a layout yet. The pvc piping is 3", so has an OD of about 3.5" and slightly larger at the fittings.

Your thoughts on this ?
Brent,
If I understand you correctly - I would probably "box in" or box out the piping. (and leave a reasonable method to open them up... just in case) as I agree to move the entire wall out to simply have it flush, seems like too mush of a loss. You might even come up with some unique tool or wood storage ideas in the "relief" spaces!???
 

McRabbet

Rob
Corporate Member
Brent,
As I suggested when I visited you a week or so ago, I would build the stud walls out slightly from the block walls after coating them with DryLok and arrange the room-side studs so any wall covering like OSB or drywall would not be kept from flat for the main vertical pipe sections. At the angled pipes near the floor, add a short boxed-in section to protect the pipe. Unless you decide on a ceiling, I'd just leave the upper runs exposed. If you follow this plan, you minimize the loss of room space and leave the piping untouched. You should also be able to add all of the shop wiring in the stud walls and insulate as well. Just my added $0.02 and hope it helps.

Rob Payne
 

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