Bandsaw Fence Adjustment Question

Wilsoncb

Williemakeit
User
I bought a used Laguna 18BX today. Seems like this thing was used pretty hard and no really maintained very well. I'm trying to adjust the fence and to get it square with the blade, it's way out of square with the table. Take a look at the picture you can see the difference between the fence and table insert plate. Is this normal? Should I be looking at something else?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3041.jpg
    IMG_3041.jpg
    44.8 KB · Views: 50

creasman

Jim
Staff member
Corporate Member
It may have been intentionally set at that angle to adjust for blade drift. Have you tried running a board through it against the fence? If the cut is straight then it's done for drift.

I bought the same saw used earlier this year. I've used it a couple of times, but like yours, it needs some serious adjustment. I finally decided to wait until I have time to retune the whole thing. I found with my Delta that if I take time to properly adjust the blade I can eliminate the drift. Hoping to get the same results with the Laguna.
 

pop-pop

Man with many vises
User
Here are the general goals and sequence for bandsaw adjustment.

Adjust the upper wheel tilt to center the bottom of the tooth gullet on the tire.

Adjust the fence parallel to the mitre slot.

Adjust the table to eliminate (or at least minimize) drift during cuts using the fence. There is usually enough slop in the holes that the table bolts pass through.
 

Rob in NC

Rob
Senior User
I just went through this for the first time this past weekend. It was only by chance that I did it in order that @pop-pop recommended. Still, it took me a good 2 hours of fiddling with it to get it right. I'm sure 99% of my struggles were inexperience.
 

Wilsoncb

Williemakeit
User
@pop-pop thanks for the suggestion. This morning I checked the table mounting bolts and they didn’t have enough slop to square things up. The tires were pretty rough so I’ll get replacements for them and the guides. Perhaps after that I’ll give it another go.

I recall seeing a previous discussion about setting up guides and getting things square but I can’t seem to find it now. It referred an article or video from someone with a different name. I was thinking Stumpy Nubs, but when I looked him up it didn’t look right. Good information, but not sure it was what was referred to by people in this forum.

Anyway, if someone recalls that discussion, please let me know.
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
The only time its going to matter is if you're using a miter gauge, then you do the Fortune method. I would adjust the fence for drift and don't worry about it.

You can try Snodgrass. I couldn't get it to work on either of my saws. Even if you do, things can change on a bandsaw.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Very much like Pop-Pop says. I set my fence square to the table. I do NOT use it to align for drift. I set my band about where Alan Snodgrass says and adjust the table to get close. Then I fine tune the blade tracking. That way, I can use a miter gauge to crosscut. ( I use my BS for probably 3/4 of my cuts now)

Yea, things do change. Bands differ and tires get hard. I also de-bur my blades with a diamond stone. If I can't fine tune the band as above, I measure how even the set is right and left. The two bands I just could not dial in were not set symmetrically.
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
I agree if you’re going to do anything, adjust the table. But I don’t see bandsaws as very good machines for cross cuts. Certainly if you have a table saw or miter saw why would you even try? Maybe a very small piece of wood? For small cross cuts a square backer block riding fence (like a router table) works fine.

My issue with Snodgrass is he gets people thinking there’s something wrong with their bandsaw. They spend hours fiddling around with it, and maybe like me, they come away frustrated and thinking something is wrong.

I‘ve found if I recheck the fence once in a while, it will frequenty need readjusting. Tracking the same, tension the same. All I can attribute this too is temp change.
 

Wilsoncb

Williemakeit
User
Here are the general goals and sequence for bandsaw adjustment.

Adjust the upper wheel tilt to center the bottom of the tooth gullet on the tire.
Food for thought concerning the position of the blade when it’s 1” wide. (I have a 1” blade that came with the saw).

If you have a 1” blade, the bottom of the gullet to the back of the blade is 7/8”. The tire is 1 1/16” wide. With the blade on the back edge of the tire, it puts the bottom of the gullet to center of the tire a little less than 3/8” off center. If you center the whole blade on the tire, it’s not much different.

I’m guessing once I get the new tires and guides I’ll find it won’t make much difference. I’m also wondering if there is really any advantage for the 1” over a 3/4” for low volume work. I guess the 1” would be stronger and dissipate more heat. But for the average hobby shop I would be surprised if you could really see any advantage.
 

Oka

Board of Directors, Vice President
Casey
Staff member
Corporate Member
I agree with Bob, not bashing snodgrasses' video, but sometimes there is an expectation that a bandsaw can be tweaked to perfection for all types of cuts....... it cannot. Great tool I use it all the time, but my expectation is not set to perfection.
 

Keye

Keye
Corporate Member
Hank had a very good post on setting up a BS. It was a while back but you should be able to find it. I increased the font size and printed it. I have it posted in my shop. There is a company in Jacksonville, Fl called Iturra BS accessories. His parts catalog is much more than just a catalog. It has a lot of info on setting up a BS and BS history. It is worth having.

One thing I find interesting about a BS is there is an adjustment for setting the table 90 degrees to the blade left to right but not one for back to front. This also needs to be 90 degrees. I had to take the nuts, holding the table down loose and use shims to make this adjustment.

After I started using my BS for more than simple cuts I found out how little I knew about a BS. Learning how to set up a BS can be frustrating but rewarding. It is a very versatile machine.

Do not think you can set it up once and forget it.

I have seen some say drift is just part of owning a BS. I disagree. I never have adjust my BS for drift.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Once I set up my BS, I find I use it far more even for quick cross-cuts. Yea, I have a TS and a miter saw, sleds for precision work etc., but for a lot of things, the BS is easier and far safer. Especially for small stuff. Surprisingly for a lot of joinery I am not doing by hand yet. Now I have a Bridge City fancy thingie, I use it for the really small stuff I would never get close to the miter saw with, even with a million dollar stick ( a must have IMHO) In other words, if I had ONE power tool, it would be a band saw.

I have found so far, as who knows what tomorrow brings, that I set the fence to the table, table close and as I said, so far, I can tweak tracking with only the upper wheel.

Keye has a very good point of front to back if you are doing joinery, however the band will tilt with pressure and tracking, every so slightly. Know your machine.

Everyone's experience may/will vary. There are a dozen ways to do anything, ten of them work. Pick one of the ten.

Caution: the Iturra WEB my Malware Bytes pegged as having a trojan. Not always correct, but be aware.
 

Dee2

Board of Directors, Secretary
Gene
Staff member
Corporate Member
Keye, I believe you might be referring to Iturra Design.
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
I have seen some say drift is just part of owning a BS. I disagree. I never have adjust my BS for drift.
:oops:I'd sure like to know what saw is that?

I got up close to a Laguna 18BX at our local Rocklers. Wow................
 

Wilsoncb

Williemakeit
User
Got the new tires and guides today. Put everything in, adjusted it and it’s all square to the table. Thanks all for the helpful suggestions.

Now, does anyone know how to rig up a light on this thing? I’d like to use the outlet on the saw, but it’s 220 and I’m not going to buy the $175 Laguna light. I can get a cheap 220V desk lamp from overseas, but it would not be delivered until February. I think I recall @pop-pop talking about a cheap light from the dollar store. I may just have to check it out and not use the outlet on the saw.
 

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top