sewing machine motor for small lathe?
Any reason this would not work?
- Thread starter Mike Davis
- Start date
You mean as a replacement motor for an existing lathe?
Yes, an old Delta or sears/Dunlap style. I don't have a stand so I will have to build a stand and motor mount anyway.
my 7"x 16" benchtop metal lathe uses a 500w brushless motor , lots of power , the trick might be in the belt and pully set up to get the speeds you want with the torque needed.. I've seen 750w kits with this type of motor for lathe upgrades.. (cost alot more but they are bolt up with belt brackets and pully included..
Intriguing idea. I'd guess there's a little figuring to how you'll hook up a substitution for the footswitch control usually used.
Keep us updated. You may be on to something.
Keep us updated. You may be on to something.
the other choice would be something like this
with controller
with controller
I kinda like the idea of a foot switch.
They are available up to 800 watts for not much more.
looking for a frugal and reliable, simple solution as I may be using 3 or 4 of them.
The specs talk about reliable braking. That could prove to be an annoyance on a wood lathe. Once the power is cut off, I suspect you'd want the motor to coast to a stop.
I had an inverter with 5hp 3phase motor added to my big lathe and a friend from work programmed the inverter for me. He said it could stop dead or ramp down, I chose to ramp down because the size of wood used there could have some inertia.
I think these little lathes could stop without a problem. Might even be safer for newbies.
I think these little lathes could stop without a problem. Might even be safer for newbies.
TGH is on the right track. The biggest potential problem I see is whether the motor will be powerful enough to spin your wood through some heavy handed chiseling. If it's not right out of the box, when you build the base and motor mount build in a 2:1 drive train reduction. If the motor is spinning at 2000 rpm and turning your working piece at 1000 rpm, there ought to be enough torque at the piece. The variable speed motor will let you fine tune the torque/wood speed to get it to operate just like you want. Be sure and show NCWW your finished machine along with a product review.
I put a 2 hp 3ph motor on my Delta lathe. I used a VFD to convert from single phase 220 to 3ph 208/230. The unit was around 150-160 range
The economics of it is once you go over a 2-3 hp motor size you are looking at a 500 + dollar cost for the VFD that can support it. Unless, you are really good at converting Frankenstein units to applications they were not originally intended for.
To me, I just do not have the will for that, I just got a simple plug n play units, no thinking (very little) easy directions and Voila' a variable speed unit from 50 rpm to 4000 (if wanted).
I tried a DC motor 1st but, DC Motors have virtually no torque below 150 rpm. And, the torque on them were not as smooth through the speed range.
The beauty of the 3 ph motor is the low end torque is excellent and the torque range is awesome from low rpm to 100% VFD range.
The problem with the sewing motors is you need to get a commercial sewing machine. I have a motor off a commercial serger (was a Yuki) 2/3 hp. But it would only have enough power for small things.
FYI- I got all my motors for free......... Craigslist is your friend.
Hobart mixers that the motor is ok are usually 2 hp 3 ph
Commercial Treadmills are usually 1.5-3 hp 3 ph motors with a vfd. These are usually given away for free when the electronics blow on them. Sometimes the VFD in them are still good, it takes a bit to decipher the leads to convert to a tool machine (ergo the Frankenstein comment). Home units are mostly DC Motors.
Some commercial package hvac units usually they get old or are R-12 so clients trash them for a newer unit.
What is funny as long as the 3 ph motors are 3 hp or less they are really worth the effort. And......... most people see the 3 ph on the motor and see it as something they cannot use........ their loss your gain ........
The economics of it is once you go over a 2-3 hp motor size you are looking at a 500 + dollar cost for the VFD that can support it. Unless, you are really good at converting Frankenstein units to applications they were not originally intended for.
To me, I just do not have the will for that, I just got a simple plug n play units, no thinking (very little) easy directions and Voila' a variable speed unit from 50 rpm to 4000 (if wanted).
I tried a DC motor 1st but, DC Motors have virtually no torque below 150 rpm. And, the torque on them were not as smooth through the speed range.
The beauty of the 3 ph motor is the low end torque is excellent and the torque range is awesome from low rpm to 100% VFD range.
The problem with the sewing motors is you need to get a commercial sewing machine. I have a motor off a commercial serger (was a Yuki) 2/3 hp. But it would only have enough power for small things.
FYI- I got all my motors for free......... Craigslist is your friend.
Hobart mixers that the motor is ok are usually 2 hp 3 ph
Commercial Treadmills are usually 1.5-3 hp 3 ph motors with a vfd. These are usually given away for free when the electronics blow on them. Sometimes the VFD in them are still good, it takes a bit to decipher the leads to convert to a tool machine (ergo the Frankenstein comment). Home units are mostly DC Motors.
Some commercial package hvac units usually they get old or are R-12 so clients trash them for a newer unit.
What is funny as long as the 3 ph motors are 3 hp or less they are really worth the effort. And......... most people see the 3 ph on the motor and see it as something they cannot use........ their loss your gain ........
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You’re not as che...—— frugal as I am.
When I go up to 750 watts the controller is about $250.. might as well go 3ph with VFD inverter.
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