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Really interested!!
20 tons????? That's a lot of wood! Interested? I guess. If you don't know what to do with it and need to get rid of it.
OK, enough with the charade! It's wood. OF COURSE WE'RE INTERESTED!
Some pics of the stuff for those that don't know Ambrosia Maple (I didn't - even though I have a couple of boards of the stuff
) -> http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/maple, ambrosia.htm
OK, enough with the charade! It's wood. OF COURSE WE'RE INTERESTED!
Some pics of the stuff for those that don't know Ambrosia Maple (I didn't - even though I have a couple of boards of the stuff
) -> http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/maple, ambrosia.htm
J
jeff...
I've had really good luck with air drying maple. (someone correct me if I'm wrong please) I think it's max safe moisture content loss per day is like 7% which is significantly higher than something like oak or sycamore, which is right around 3% per day. So I guess what I'm saying is it's a pretty forgiving wood to air dry and similar to air drying walnut or cherry. Only bad thing about maple is it likes to check on the end grain - it needs to be forced with endgrain sealer to loose it's moisture out of the face and not the endgrain. Otherwise it will loose to much out of the end grain and splitting will result. This is true of most woods and sealing with endgrain sealer should be considered a best practice when drying any lumber of value.
U.C coatings sells Ancorseal for $65.00 for a 5 gallon bucket or $32.00 a gallon (that includes shipping via the big brown truck) it's a good investment to have on hand - you know. And besides when you get the 5 gallon bucket the UPS man will ask you what's in the box
Thanks
U.C coatings sells Ancorseal for $65.00 for a 5 gallon bucket or $32.00 a gallon (that includes shipping via the big brown truck) it's a good investment to have on hand - you know. And besides when you get the 5 gallon bucket the UPS man will ask you what's in the box
Thanks
I would be interested as well
Philip AM is very nice scrolling wood. You just have to becareful as to what patterns you use as the graining is so nice you don't want the wood to take away from your pattern or your pattern to take away for your wood.
I would say you want no need some. :eusa_danc
Put me down as interested -in some 4/4- as well. Just need to know price & when I can get it.
Regards,
Mike
Regards,
Mike
Jeff,
When coating with anchorseal I know that I should do it as soon as possible after the wood is cut, but besides covering the outside edge, how far onto the board should the anchorseal go. 1 - 2" ?
Thanks,
Jimmy:mrgreen:
When coating with anchorseal I know that I should do it as soon as possible after the wood is cut, but besides covering the outside edge, how far onto the board should the anchorseal go. 1 - 2" ?
Thanks,
Jimmy:mrgreen:
I've had really good luck with air drying maple. (someone correct me if I'm wrong please) I think it's max safe moisture content loss per day is like 7% which is significantly higher than something like oak or sycamore, which is right around 3% per day. So I guess what I'm saying is it's a pretty forgiving wood to air dry and similar to air drying walnut or cherry. Only bad thing about maple is it likes to check on the end grain - it needs to be forced with endgrain sealer to loose it's moisture out of the face and not the endgrain. Otherwise it will loose to much out of the end grain and splitting will result. This is true of most woods and sealing with endgrain sealer should be considered a best practice when drying any lumber of value.
U.C coatings sells Ancorseal for $65.00 for a 5 gallon bucket or $32.00 a gallon (that includes shipping via the big brown truck) it's a good investment to have on hand - you know. And besides when you get the 5 gallon bucket the UPS man will ask you what's in the box
Thanks
Jimmy, I'll answer for Jeff re the end sealer.
Basically, you want to thoroughly coat all end grain of the board. Usually I will put on at least 2 if not 3 coats, allowing time in-between to dry.
Try to keep it off of the faces of the boards (although you'll get a little), because it is through the face that you want the water to evaporate.
When coating milled boards that have not previously been coated, if there are any checks present end sealing works best if you can trim a few inches off of the end of the board and apply it to un-checked wood. Remember - an end check is like a crack in glass - once it starts it is easy for it to keep growing. The key is to prevent it from starting (and to end up with more usable wood because of the more consistent drying process).
It's best to apply end sealer as soon as possible after cutting the log, perhaps some folks could get with Jack and coat the ends of the logs before milling?
Maple usually air drys well - be sure to sticker on 16" centers and keep the pile out of direct sunlight. Stick it in your attic to sterilize after the MC% is below 18%.
Scott
Basically, you want to thoroughly coat all end grain of the board. Usually I will put on at least 2 if not 3 coats, allowing time in-between to dry.
Try to keep it off of the faces of the boards (although you'll get a little), because it is through the face that you want the water to evaporate.
When coating milled boards that have not previously been coated, if there are any checks present end sealing works best if you can trim a few inches off of the end of the board and apply it to un-checked wood. Remember - an end check is like a crack in glass - once it starts it is easy for it to keep growing. The key is to prevent it from starting (and to end up with more usable wood because of the more consistent drying process).
It's best to apply end sealer as soon as possible after cutting the log, perhaps some folks could get with Jack and coat the ends of the logs before milling?
Maple usually air drys well - be sure to sticker on 16" centers and keep the pile out of direct sunlight. Stick it in your attic to sterilize after the MC% is below 18%.
Scott
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