Advice needed on sanding/finishing acrylic acetate pen blanks

[RandyJ]

Hello Braintrust,
Now that Gator has made me dangerous:eusa_whis with a little turning knowledge, I need some advice on non-wood sanding/finishing.
I purchased some Acrylic Acetate pen blanks, before our beloved WC store closed:crybaby2::crybaby2:.
I THINK I'm ready to give them a try. Can anyone give me any advice on abrasives to use and how to use them. I also need advice on what finishes/sealers might be needed and their application:slap:.
Or, am I over-thinking this and they get the same treatment as wood blanks?
I told you Gator made me dangerous, but I guess I can't accuse him of making me stupid:BangHead:! I did that on my own!:lol:
Thanks for any help you can provide.

 

[DaveO]

Randy you can treat them pretty much like you would a wood blank. The few that I have done including stabilized wood (pretty much plastic) I have followed the same sanding schedule as I would a wood pen - 120, 150, 180, 220, 320, 400 and then Micro Mesh. It is good to finish them up with a very fine abrasive Plastic Polish http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=5771

Dave

 

[toolman]

Randy
I cannot help you on this but DaveO is very good in making bowls and pens!! :lol: I have some Acrylic pen blanks and Your need has help me as well! :BangHead:

[mouse]Thank for the info Dave[/mouse]

 

[TBone]

Randy,

I agree with Dave on the Micro Mesh and plastic polish. I like the foam backed pads for acrylic and usually wet sand. As for polish, check Wal Mart for an auto polish that will remove swirls from clear coat...nice and cheap. I use [STRIKE]Abralon[/STRIKE] Abranet in place of sand paper. It doesn't clog, the "grit" is very uniform and it lasts forever. I'm not sure if I can wear it out.

 

[clowman]

Another in agreement for MM and plastic polish. You do need to have a sharp tool to turn those blanks. Otherwise, they will look sorta spiderwebby... if that's a word.....

 

[Eaglesc]

Light touch with the sanding, CA to fill any voids, Brasso as the final"polish".

 

[Sir Chiz]

Acrylic is fairly soft, with a low melting point, so whatever abrasive/polish you decide to use, don't apply too much pressure, it can turn gummy and ugly. ;-)
Same goes for drilling the blanks, sharp bit, go slow,no heat, or the blank will get spiderwebby. :mrgreen:


Sir Chizalot, The Gummer.......once.

 

[Eaglesc]

Ditto on Chiz's comments on drilling.
The bit MUST be sharp.
If the blank spiderwebs as opposed to blowing out you are lucky.
Spider webbing occurs in plastic blanks and appears as "Stress fractures" in the blank.
If there is too much "Shock" while drilling and turning(as a in "catches") you may experience the appearance of cracks but will not necessarily be able to feel them.
No matter how much sanding you do they wont dissappear.
This is more evident in translucent blanks.I first discovered it when I Started working with plexiglass and metal..
Also a blowout occurs more so in acrylics and plasitcs(genertic term) when the material being drilled softens at the tip of the drill bit.(there is friction and friction causes heat.A dull drill bit causes more heat than a sharp one. As the material works its way up the flutes it may compact as it cools and cause a blow out.)
This is one instance that using a blow nozzel from a compressor that hasn't been drained works to your benifit.I drill on the lathe blowing into the hole as I advance the bit.
The moisture lubes and cools the bit as I drill.
I don't drill solid acrylic blanks often but this meathod has worked on my acrylic glue ups.(In this case plexiglass and copper)

 

[RandyJ]

Thanks for all the help, everyone! That's why I love this site.

I'll give it a go and see what happens:eusa_pray. I think I'll practice my turning technique a little more on wood scraps first!

Eagle, nice looking pen:eusa_clap. I can always dream.....

Take care,