Table saw questions

[jhreed]

I have a Jet JTAS10 xacta-saw. I purchased a INCRA IBOX & a stacked dado set to use with it. I have never used a stacked dado before. I installed the dado set,two outside blades, one chipper, & two shims. This leaves very little clearance left of the dado set and the table insert. (my saw is right tilt) What is the deal? How can I install the dado set with the 3/4" width?

Also, the blade guard of the IBOX cannot be used with the tablesaw splitter & blade guard in place. Is it acceptable to remove the blade guard from the I BOX and use the tablesaw blade guard instead?

Sorry I am so ignorant & in-experience, but that is why I am a member of this forum. To learn and expand my experience. Thanks for your help.
James

[toolferone]

James, It is very common to remove the table saw splitter and guard for some cuts. You can't use a traditional splitter with a non-thru cut (dado). Are you trying to use the blade insert that came with the saw or do you have a dado insert? A dado insert has a much wider opening. You need to get the one for your saw. There are many aftermarket ones around.

[jhreed]

Thanks Tom. I am using the red metal insert that came with the saw. It has plenty of opening to the right of the dado set, but no enough to the left of the dado set.

There is plenty of room to make the box joint dado before encountering the splitter. My splitter & blade guard requires the removal of two bolts that are down inside the cabinet and require a line up procedure when re-installing. I am just being lazy, but do not want to be unsafe. My idea appears to be safe to me. Using the original blade guard that came with the saw and removing the blade guard that came with the IBOX.

i THOUGHT THE RED METAL INSERT THAT CAME WITH THE SAW WAS INTENDED TO ALSO BE USED WITH STACKED DADO BLADES. I have a Leecraft zero clearance insert I use with my regular blade.
James

[Mike Davis]

James, I make my own inserts for my Delta tablesaw. I use 1/4 inch birch plywood and a couple scraps of maple. It takes 30 minutes or so to make one and I have made one for each need so I have several now. I like a wood insert must better, it seems to be safer to me. I can run the blade right up through and then against the wood insert and have a true zero clearance without hurting the blade or the insert. If the insert gets damaged I just make a new one.

The blade guard on the finger joint jig is to keep you from holding the wood or jig near the blade and cutting your fingers. I would keep it there and remove the tablesaw guard. I think it will be much safer that way.

[jhreed]

Mike, I make my insert for my miter saw and am happy with them. Guess I will make some for my dado set also. I like your idea of several of them to match the width of the dado set.

I still feel good about using the tablesaw blade guard. You have one hand on the right side of the IBOX on hand on the left side of the IBOX and the tablesaw blade guard diverting sawdust back to the table. One of you safety guys please agree with me so I do not have to remove and replace the blade guard and splitter evertime I want to use the IBOX.
jAMES

[Mike Davis]

If it covers the blade and does not hinder the iBox travel then go for it.

[Pop Golden]

CAUTION ! Call it stupid, but when I made my 1st insert I placed a 10 inch or so block on top of the insert to run the blade up through. Didn't clamp it down. Blade came up, spun it like a Frisbee and left me a bruise/cut on my belly. Clamp things down and for God sake don't put your hand near this operation until the blade has penetrated insert.

Good luck and be safe.

Bill "Pop" Golden

[Tarhead]

Here's how I do it:
Put the insert blank in place and use clear packing tape liberally to hold it still. Run the rip fence over one side of the insert blank and lock it in place. Slowly raise the blade.

[Joe Scharle]

James, you can just screw the dado insert down and then raise the blades to create the opening. Reason is; dado sets are 6 or 8 inches.

[jhreed]

OK guys who own the IBOX. Keep the factory guard. Should have known Alan had thought it all through. I did not allow for the work piece. When it approaches the tablesaw guard, the guard has to go verticle, uncovering the cutters.
also, I read zero clearance inset cutting instructions on NEWWOODWORKER.COM. It said not to use the fence to hold down the insert. The new fences are not locked down on the back. So if something goes wrong it launches the fence at you also. He recommended a 2x4 or similar lumber clamped to table front and back.
James

[Gotcha6]

I may be missing something here, but do the inserts on this machine not have fastening screws? If not, I'd countersink some wood screws into some out of the way places in the corners and run them through a short piece of wood that could turn & lock down the insert - or use a toggle bolt......... JMTCW.
As for the inserts themselves, they are readily available in most woodworker supply stores in configurations for most major saws. You could also purchase some strips of UHMW the proper thickness and make them from that. I use a router with a spacer and pattern bit to match the inserts for my saws. That way you can make several at once and they are consistent in fit.

[ehpoole]

OK guys who own the IBOX. Keep the factory guard. Should have known Alan had thought it all through. I did not allow for the work piece. When it approaches the tablesaw guard, the guard has to go verticle, uncovering the cutters.
also, I read zero clearance inset cutting instructions on NEWWOODWORKER.COM. It said not to use the fence to hold down the insert. The new fences are not locked down on the back. So if something goes wrong it launches the fence at you also. He recommended a 2x4 or similar lumber clamped to table front and back.
James

Actually, I suspect the advice has more to do with the fact that many fences do not make contact with the actual table (and, thus, would not actually rest on the insert) *and* if you park the fence over the wrong portion of the insert then you will be raising your blade *into* the fence assembly. If your fence is locked up front, then it's not going anywhere, but the other two concerns more than make up for that concern.

IMHO -- and as per Alan, the best solution when breaking in a new insert is to take piece of sacrificial lumber long enough to reach from the front to the rear of your saw, center it over the new insert, then clamp that board at *both* ends. You can then safely raise the blade through the new insert and the sacrificial board will also serve to prevent any chipout in the new insert. I then like to raise and lower the blade several times to ensure that no portion of the slot is making contact with the blade. Also, many inserts can be secured with a single safety bolt to ensure that they cannot come free even if the blade somehow deflects and catches the rear of the insert -- use this bolt if available.

As far as the "universal" inserts (non-zero clearance) that typically come with tablesaws, most every saw has two such inserts -- a standard blade insert and a dado insert -- though many saws these days only include the standard insert from the factory.

Also be aware that not all saws can safely handle a full 3/4" dado stack -- it all depends upon how long the arbor is as you *must* always ensure that the arbor nut is properly secured and tightened and this will often limit your maximum width. And if you ever notice any significant vibration when running a dado set then it goes without saying to shut everything down *quickly* as it means that something is very wrong.

[Gofor]

I made up a bunch of blank inserts (1/2" ply fit mine exactly). I rough cut them with a jigsaw, and then carpet-taped the original insert to them and used a pattern bit on the router for the final cut. When I do a different dado width, I just drop the blade all the way down, install the new insert (with screw), and raise the dado up to a little more than the depth I need.

With an 8" dado on a 10" saw there are no clearance problems like there are with a 10" blade that will not drop far enough to clear the bottom of the insert. For that I pre-cut with a 7 1/4 circular saw blade first.

Note, my insert blanks have a pin in the back to keep them from raising up. Without that , I would use my fence as it locks both in front and back. Place the fence on the opposite side of the way your saw tilts (left side for a right-tilt saw). Just don't go past the arbor shoulder.

JMTCW

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