Router instruction

[DrVenture]

So I have a hand-me-down router. A Dewalt DW616 with both kinds of bases. being new to routers in general I perused my local library for some written instructions and maybe some tips.
The library has this book Amazon.com: Woodworking with the Router: Professional Router Techniques and Jigs Any Woodworker Can Use (American Woodworker) (9781565234390): Bill Hylton: Books on routers. is there any others you would recommend reading. A personal favorite??

Drew

[KenOfCary]

Check out finewoodworking.com and do a search on router safety. This brings up a bunch of useful links to articles and videos on the subject.

- Ken.

[golfdad]

Drew check out www.routerforums.com great site

[ehpoole]

For me, the definitive guide was "The New Router Handbook" by the late Patrick Spielman. There is a lot of good information to be found in the book, even though it is a little bit dated (1993) -- but fortunately routers have not changed all that much in the time since.

The ISBN is 0-8069-0518-2.

But, ultimately, once you have done your reading and familiarized yourself (at least in terms of booksmarts) as to the dangers and proper use of routers, you really need to just bite the bullet and purchase some reasonably decent quality carbide-tipped router bits and get to practicing. Poplar would be my wood of choice for a beginner.

Some of the most useful bits for the average beginner (beyond this basic list will really come down to where you choose to specialize:

• A set of Roundover/Beading bits (roundover bits become beading bits by swapping the larger bearings for a smaller bearing, usually also included in the set). Typical radii for a starter set: 1/8", 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". These are often used with small routers (like the Bosch Colt) in addition to larger routers, so I usually prefer a 1/4" shank for this set.
• A selection of straight/dado bits: 3/16", 1/4", 5/16" (1/4" shank) and 3/8" and 1/2" (1/2" shank)
• Atlernately (or in addition to the above): Some common plywood sized straight bits.
• Upcut Spiral Bits: 1/4" (with 1/4" shank" and 1/2" (with 1/2" shank) -- Don't invest in downcut spirals until you are experienced and/or ready to specialize. Solid carbid spiral bits are pricy, but very useful.
• A stepped rabbeting kit -- These usually consist of a single router bit with a selection of different bearing diameters to choose from. The bearing you choose will dictate the cutting depth of the rabbet.
• A 1/2" flush-trim bit (bearing is at end of bit) and a 1/2" pattern trim bit (bearing is at middle of bit) -- which are incredibly useful bits.

The above bits are good bits to get you started and begin practicing. You certainly don't need to purchase all of the above at once to get started -- and depending upon your particular interests you may never need some of the above bits -- but take the above list into consideration as you tackle various projects and hone your skills. There are also countless specialty bits (roman ogee, cove, corebox, miter, drawer lock, finger joint, rail and stile, slot cutters, v-groove, and so forth) available which you should generally only purchase when a project comes up where you need them because they are typically used less often. Although, as you begin to specialize according to your interests, you may find that some of these specialty bits become centerpieces in your arsenal and there's nothing wrong with that.

As I stated earlier, Poplar is a great wood to familiarize yourself with the router. It is a softer wood with very predictable grain that routes well and is much more forgiving of some mistakes than some other woods out there. It is also one of the cheaper woods for you to practice on and it is widely availalbe. Avoid experimenting with Pine 2x4's and the like as they contain quite a lot of pitch that will quickly build up on your router bit collection -- at which time you will have to invest the time and labor in cleaning off the pitch with an appropriate pitch-removal product and, possibly, a brass bristled brush (NEVER use a steel bristled brush on your router bits -- only brass or synthetic). Pine is cheap, but it can be a real pain to clean up after when all your tools and machinery get covered in pitch resin.

Also, with respect to routers, nowadays variable speed routers are widely available. If you will be working with larger diameter bits these are an absolute must, but even if you won't be the variable speed feature can be a lifesaver when dealing with certain woods and/or bits. A 1/2" radius roundover bit is about the largest bit you would ever want to use on a router without variable speed.

From a safety and control standpoint, always route against the direction of bit rotation (otherwise the router will literally try to "run away" from you) or kickback and/or loss of control is likely. Also, as you become familiar with your router, err on the side of taking shallow passes with each bit -- especially as the diameter of the bit's cutter increases -- rather than deeper cuts. When the router has a proper load on it you should hear it slow down *some* but it should never sound like it is working terribly hard. With a small bit you may be able to make a full-depth cut in a single pass, but as the amount of wood a bit has to remove increases the maximum safe depth decreases. For starters, limit youself to about 1/8" per pass until you become familiar with what YOUR router can handle per pass AND what you can safely expect to maintain control of. Even then, realize that the harder the wood species you choose to route, the shallower those passes have to become. For instance, when I was routing Purpleheart (an extremely hard wood) with a 1/4" spiral bit I had to reduce my depth of cut to as little as 1/32" per pass AND reduce the router's speed to its minimum setting to maintain control, prevent kickback and avoid overheating the wood!

I hope this helps to get you started. We certainly welcome you to NCWW and please feel free to come to us with any questions you may have. Nobody around here is going to make you feel silly if you happen to ask an obvious question. We were all newbies to this hobby at some point in our lives.

[merrill77]

I like the Router Jointer Workshop by Carol Reed. My favorite part is the router table design she offers - it is very quick and cheap to build but works very well. I used mine for many years before building a more complex table.

[tryingtokeepmyfingers]

Drew check out www.routerforums.com great site

I second you can learn what ever you need at router forums

[DrVenture]

Wow thank you all for the information, and for the list of bits to start off with. I am trying to make a cabinet for my workshop and it is calling for rabbets and dados. I do not have a TS with a dado set (it's just a small cheap on-site TS for the moment) so I wanted to try using my router. The only downside I can see to my dewalt is it is not variable speed. I am hoping to build a few jigs to help also as i expand my knowledge and hopefully tool selection. Thanks again everyone.

drew

[Mike Camp]

Here is a a link to Lonnie Bird's free router eBook and the price is right . For a good starter set I bought a 30 piece 1/2" shank set from this eBay store for around $60 shipped. The bits are actually pretty good too, and with them being so inexpensive you'll have plenty of cash left over to round out your set later with nicer bits as you figure out what you use the most. The other thing I like about having a cheaper set of bits around is you can use them on projects like routing the deck of your friends shed or cornhole boards without the concern of breaking a $20 bit.

[CDPeters]

As far as bits go, Grizzly has a Presidents Special running on a 20 piece carbide set for $52.00. These are not "top-drawer" bits, but I have a Grizz set and it has served me well.

[KenOfCary]

A set like the Grizzly one mentioned would be a good start. You can find out which bits you use the most and then buy nicer, more expensive versions of the ones you use the most.

Just got an email that Woodsmith's is selling a new router handbook for 9.95 introductory price.

April 12, 2012 | Woodsmith Tips

Their stuff is usually full of instructions for making jigs and such.

- Ken.

[Interiorwoodworks]

Drew,

Check your Message Box

Colin Helms