How do you set up blast gates to turn on the DC?

[MarkE]

I would like to set up my dust collector so that the cyclone turns on when I open a blast gate and turns off when all blast gates are closed. I know that some of you have a set up like this and that there has been discussion about how to set it up. I can't seem to find any of the old threads discussing this.

Right now my DC is turned on by a contactor that is triggered by a wireless Christmas tree light remote. The contactor uses a 120 volt trigger to switch the 240 volt load.

What would I need to do to convert this to use micro-switches on the blast gates in place of the wireless remote?

[FlyingRon]

You need a low voltage circuit to kick on the dust collector. I picked one up off the remainder pile at a local woodcraft for $10. The device was called the Long Ranger. Penn State Industries has them on their page.
Auto Switches at Penn State Industries

[Canuck]

Mark

You may want to checkin to Alan in Little Washington system. Here is a link to one of his many threads on the subject.....

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/f...ght=blast+gate

He has designed quite a system of blast gate magnagement.

Wayne

[Hank Knight]

Mark,

My oldest friend is an electronics genius. He designed and built a system for my cyclone that not only turns it on and off when I open and close the balst gates, it has an LED/photo cell in the circuit that shuts the system down when the bin gets full. The on/off switches for the blast gates are magnetically activated "reed switches" that are used in the home security industry to activate a security alarum when windows are opened. They're easy to install, just drill two holes and insert the switch and the magnet. The switches activate a relay and a contactor that operates the cyclone. I have the circuit diagram I can send you. I'm not an electronics person, so I can't read it, but maybe you can or maybe someone can put it together for you from the circuit diagram. I can also send you the info on the switches and the LED/photo cell if you like. Let me know if you want it.

Hank

[MarkE]

Mark,

My oldest friend is an electronics genius. He designed and built a system for my cyclone that not only turns it on and off when I open and close the balst gates, it has an LED/photo cell in the circuit that shuts the system down when the bin gets full. The on/off switches for the blast gates are magnetically activated "reed switches" that are used in the home security industry to activate a security alarum when windows are opened. They're easy to install, just drill two holes and insert the switch and the magnet. The switches activate a relay and a contactor that operates the cyclone. I have the circuit diagram I can send you. I'm not an electronics person, so I can't read it, but maybe you can or maybe someone can put it together for you from the circuit diagram. I can also send you the info on the switches and the LED/photo cell if you like. Let me know if you want it.

Hank

Sure, I'd love to see the information. Thanks.

[Hank Knight]

Mark,

I'll get the schematic from home, scan it and post it for you. I'm working at my office today so it will probably be tomorrow before I can get it to you.

Hank

[toolferone]

I actually just did this. If you do the photo cell, it is important to get one that cuts on very fast, some can take 2 minutes.
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/f...-up-43054.html

Here is the layout before I added the high dust cut-out.
Blastgate

Let me know if I can help.

[MarkE]

Mark,

I'll get the schematic from home, scan it and post it for you. I'm working at my office today so it will probably be tomorrow before I can get it to you.

Hank

Thanks Hank.

[MikeH]

Mark,

My oldest friend is an electronics genius. He designed and built a system for my cyclone that not only turns it on and off when I open and close the balst gates, it has an LED/photo cell in the circuit that shuts the system down when the bin gets full. The on/off switches for the blast gates are magnetically activated "reed switches" that are used in the home security industry to activate a security alarum when windows are opened. They're easy to install, just drill two holes and insert the switch and the magnet. The switches activate a relay and a contactor that operates the cyclone. I have the circuit diagram I can send you. I'm not an electronics person, so I can't read it, but maybe you can or maybe someone can put it together for you from the circuit diagram. I can also send you the info on the switches and the LED/photo cell if you like. Let me know if you want it.

Hank

I would like to see that info too. It sounds like a really cool system. Have pics?

[MarkE]

I actually just did this. If you do the photo cell, it is important to get one that cuts on very fast, some can take 2 minutes.
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/f...-up-43054.html

Here is the layout before I added the high dust cut-out.
Blastgate

Let me know if I can help.

Thanks Tom. That wiring diagram should work.

I think I'll get the micro switches with roller levers instead of the reed switches. Only $1.98/ea on Amazon. I also found a 40 amp contactor with 24 volt relay that should do the job for $8.99. Just have to get a 120v to 24v transformer and some wire.

[caskey]

You can use a brick transformer for ur power src...

[junquecol]

I'm sorry, but I just don't get having blast gates control DC. It's one more thing, actually two, to do every time you run a machine. Open gate, operate machine, close gate, repeat, repeat, repeat. I like the sensor in the panel box that controls DC, automatically, when it senses machine circuit activated

[MarkE]

I'm sorry, but I just don't get having blast gates control DC. It's one more thing, actually two, to do every time you run a machine. Open gate, operate machine, close gate, repeat, repeat, repeat. I like the sensor in the panel box that controls DC, automatically, when it senses machine circuit activated

Here is my reasoning. As it is now I don't know if any one (or more) blast gate is opened, so I have to look around and go close any that are not going to be needed for the current task. With the gates controlling the DC, all the gates will always be closed until I need one, then the DC will come on. When I'm done, close the gate and the DC turns off.

Sometimes I make one quick cut on the MS or TS, etc., and don't turn on the DC for that one cut. If the DC was controlled by a sensor, the DC would always come one when the tool is turned on.

Also, with the sensor control, I still have the 'which blast gates are now open' problem.

[toolferone]

I think I'll get the micro switches with roller levers instead of the reed switches. Only $1.98/ea on Amazon.

Make sure they are still sealed inside for dust reasons.

The wiring diagram I show is for 110v. When i made one for 220v I used to circuit breakers. The problem there is only one side might trip, still leaving one side hot. Just something to keep in mind.

Here is the 220v diagram I used.

[MarkE]

Make sure they are still sealed inside for dust reasons.

The wiring diagram I show is for 110v. When i made one for 220v I used to circuit breakers. The problem there is only one side might trip, still leaving one side hot. Just something to keep in mind.

Here is the 220v diagram I used.

Why did you add circuit breakers to this switch? Won't the breaker in the main panel trip on an overload?