Tempered Hardboard on workbench top

[SteveColes]

I have a workbench whose top is made from a solid core door. I have always intended to cover it with tempered hardboard.

Of course I never got around to it becuase the top was a bit cluttered.:lol:


Last week I got to the point where I could see the floor. After today, I will be able to see bench top and I will be able to start attaching the hardboard. I have been told several ways to do this.

One of the ways that sounded the best to me was to simply nail it on with a special type of nail that could be easily removed. DaveF told me about this over lunch, but for the life of me I couldn't remember the type of nail. So David, if out there could you remind me of the nail type?

I would also welcome any other suggestions. The criteria is easy to to attach and easy to replace.

[NCPete]

Norm did this on his bench(perhaps the garage workshop episode), IIRC, the bench had an edgeband around it, that held the hardboard in place, using only gravity to keep it down. Maybe there was some double-sided tape.

[D L Ames]

Steve, I would recommend double face tape instead of using nails. Then you wouldn't have to worry about and hardware in your top interfering with anything like hand tools or project materials when working at the bench.

D L

[rickc]

I used a brad nailer. Enough holding power to keep he hardboard down, but something I could pry up with little effort. Brads were about an inch- maybe 7/8"

[Steve D]

Slightly counter sunk brass screws, they won't damage tools and can easily be removed.

[D L Ames]

Good point on using brass screws Steve. That would work too.

D L

[DavidF]

I used a brad nailer. Enough holding power to keep he hardboard down, but something I could pry up with little effort. Brads were about an inch- maybe 7/8"

I used "hardboard" nails actually; they are a specially designed small brad with a diamond shaped head that enable the board to be pulled off easily leaving an 1/8 of nail showing; I just pull those out with pliers. 18G brads would do the same no doubt. They are below the surface so tools are not a problem

[4yanks]

I built my bench using Norms plan with an added shoulder vise. I screwed down the hardboard top with drywall screws (I agree brass would be better) as per the plans. The advantage to screws is that the top can be replaced. Here it is twelve years later and I have yet to replace the top. At this point I will build a new bench before I replace the top. If I use hardboard again I would probably use brads or DS tape.

[SteveColes]

I've decided to go the brad route.

Thanks to all.

[William Bender]

Brads are very useful, I used them on some small benchs and until I was putting some heavy friction on it plaining down a piece they were fine. But when that table top moved and I pulled the brads up I was not the most enjoyable person to be around at that time. I think a couple messages hit the nail on the head. I would just clamp the sucker down and use drywall coarse thread screws from the bottom, it won't go anywhere with 6-8 screws and easy to take off too, just make sure you use a clutch and don't strip the screw. Ow *bows to the Woodworking god we know as Norm* I don't know how I have forgotten to pay my homage as of yet.

[Ray Martin]

I made the NYW bench too. I used counter-sunk screws thru the hardboard top. Sunk them a bit below the surface. Yes, the holes do collect some dust but I didn't want to scratch materials or have tools get caught / hung up.

Ray

[SteveColes]

No disrespect to anyone whose advice I didn't take. But as I said, I decided to use brads.

Also, I didn't take DaveO's advice about layout. the top is 12 ft long and 31" deep. So there was no way lay out this thing without a lot of waste. Dave suggest 2 8 x4 sheets. One cut 98 x 31 and the other cut 48 x 31 so that there would only be one seam. Actually, the whole discussion was more complicated than that. :eyeslam:

Anyway I got 6 2x 4 sheets. nailing each sheet as I went, making sure the seams were tight. Then snapped a chalk line just proud of the edge. Then a circular saw (new Festool) down the line. Flush trim with router. I didn' like the edge, thought it would tear up easily, so used a round over bit.

Voila!

[D L Ames]

Looks great Steve. I bet your glad to see the top of your bench again.

D L

[Canuck]

Slick, Steve! Do you plan on adding a small vice? (But..... Did you cheat and just toss everything from the top to the shelf, underneath? )

Wayne

[sapwood]

Awesome Steve!

I can understand your not taking DaveO's advice, but apparently you have been taking his "Productivity Pills" :lol:

Sapwood