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  1. #1
    Senior User CrealBilly's Avatar
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    Minwax Polycrylic

    Don't know if you guys have used Minwax Polycrylic but after years of lacquer finishing I really like this stuff. It's water based so cleanup is easy. It dries in 2 hours and can be re coated after 2 hours. Lays down nice and smooth with my spary gun set at 30 ~ 35 PSI and the valve wide open. When I first started using it, I liked the way it sprayed but it has no pigment so it won't pop and grain and leaves the wood looking real bland. Being water based it also raises the grain. I over come both these problems by first applying a two very thin coats of clear oil based poly to the bare wood. I rub oil based poly in with a cloth and wipe off the excess, then I repeat. Face grains gets two coats and end grains get four. Being that the poly is oil based it gives a nice warmth to the bare wood and also just about eliminates grain rasing by the Minwax Polycrylic. Once the oil based poly is dry and without any sanding on the oil base coats. I spray on two nice semi thick coats of Minwax Polycrylic. After the second coat is dry I lightly sand with 320 and wipe off the dust with tackcloth and a few blasts with a air hose, then I spray one one medium light mist coat and it's done. A easy and fast finishing schedule...

    Minwax Polycrylic is acrylic (the stuff ladies paint their fingernails with) and repairs very easy. It's tough, water proof, and can be cleaned with glass cleaner (windex). I try not to endorse a product unless I really like it although a little on the expensive side, I really like Minwax Polycrylic

    http://www.minwax.com/products/water...ve_finish.html

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Senior User CrealBilly's Avatar
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    Re: Minwax Polycrylic

    One thing I forgot to mention when the can says gloss they mean it, it's a supper shiny gloss... I like the satin for warmth and semi gloss when I need a real shinny finish.

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    Re: Minwax Polycrylic

    I love this stuff too, no fumes, quick drying, professional finish. Although I don't spray it, I use a brush.

    One thing I really like about it is that it doesn't add any color to the wood, it doesn't "warm" the color like an oil. So many pieces of wood are colored these days that nobody knows what the natural wood species look like. But I love the color that comes right out of the planer, Polyacrylic doesn't change that.

    As for raising the grain, that's what de-whiskering does. I spray a light mist of water, let it raise the grain for 30 minutes and use a 400 grit sand paper to knock off the raised fibers. The first coat of Poly sometimes raises a few more, just hit it with another quick 400 sanding. Further coats won't have any affect. Wet sand between coats while increasing grit to 800+, apply a coat of wax and you're done.

    I initially bought the Satin sheen. It has a nice soft look, but you can get the same effect by using 1200+ grit on gloss. Then you only have to keep one sheen around.

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    Re: Minwax Polycrylic

    A coat of dewaxed shellac will warm things up ever so slightly, without too much ambering. Not as warm as a coat of oil of course. It also takes care of any grain raising.
    Bas.
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    Re: Minwax Polycrylic

    Great stuff. Just DO NOT use the polycrylic in the spray cans. The first 5-10 seconds will come out with clumps that do not wipe off. DAMHIK
    Maker of fine saw dust
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    Re: Minwax Polycrylic

    Jeff,

    If you like the Minwax Polycrylic you will love General Finishes Poly Acrylic. I can spray a coat about every hour. I seal and pop the grain with General Finishes Seal-A-Cell first. Let that dry and come back with the Poly Acrylic. I lightly rub down between coats with a fine 3M Scotch Brite pad (the gray ones). It's more expensive than Minwax Polycrylic but I think it dries faster and lays flatter.

    Rick Doby

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    Senior User CrealBilly's Avatar
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    Re: Minwax Polycrylic

    Quote Originally Posted by rbdoby View Post
    Jeff,

    If you like the Minwax Polycrylic you will love General Finishes Poly Acrylic. I can spray a coat about every hour. I seal and pop the grain with General Finishes Seal-A-Cell first. Let that dry and come back with the Poly Acrylic. I lightly rub down between coats with a fine 3M Scotch Brite pad (the gray ones). It's more expensive than Minwax Polycrylic but I think it dries faster and lays flatter.

    Rick Doby
    Rick, I learned a lesson some time ago and now only purchase enough finish to finish the project at hand, the rest I toss as soon as the project is finished. I don't keep extra finish around...

    Back in the late 80's while working at a place we had a fire break out in a flammable storage cabinet. Although it contained the fire until the cabinet was opened by the fire department and the cabinet and it contents were removed it still stunk for weeks afterwards. So bad that we had to close up shop for 2 weeks till the smell was better. I really like the idea of being able to purchase finish just about anywhere and most places carry minwax products. Not saying minwax is the best at all but minwax is widely available.

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    Re: Minwax Polycrylic

    Steve wrote:

    I love this stuff too, no fumes, quick drying, professional finish. Although I don't spray it, I use a brush.
    Please share the secret. I just used the stuff on a game board I made for the grandkids and I thought it was just terrible. Couldn't avoid brush marks and couldn't sand them out either. I tried spraying with a rattle can after giving up on the brush. Scott is right on the money - the finish spits onto the surface and you can't sand that out either. Maybe I'm just too used to oil-based finishes but it'll be awhile before I try Polycrilic again. And - $10+ bucks for a rattle can!!

    Ernie
    www.ernestmillerharpsichords.com

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    Re: Minwax Polycrylic

    Quote Originally Posted by ErnieM View Post

    Please share the secret. I just used the stuff on a game board I made for the grandkids and I thought it was just terrible. Couldn't avoid brush marks and couldn't sand them out either.
    Polyacrylic has a number of tricks because it is water-based. Here are some of my tips, mostly just following the directions, but with some variation:
    • Do not shake the can. Allow to settle 24+ hours after purchase, and stir gently. This is apparently a big deal, the air bubbles entrained by shaking disturb the finish and cure quality.
    • 70F degrees or better.
    • De-whisker the project first. This is a big deal and I never took it seriously until I read Bob Flexner's book. This removes all the little grains that will make the finish look rough, and it is critical for water-based finishes. You lightly mist the surfaces and wait 30 minutes. Then knock them all down with about 220 grit sandpaper. Repeat to get a doubly impressive smooth finish on your first coat, ignore if you intend to use multiple coats.
    • High quality synthetic brush.
    • Apply coat quickly and keep a wet edge. (I had the most brush marks where I loitered, got a phone call, etc.)
    • Allow 2+ hours to dry.
    • Wet sand in between coats. This is my biggest variation to the directions, I use 180 after first coat, 220 second, and 320+ third. After the first few coats, each successive coat goes on much easier and smoother. This is mostly due to the de-whiskering of the wood, NOT a failure of the finish.
    • Don't use steel wool.
    • Wax.


    I've never used the spray bomb, I don't see the point since it introduces VOCs and there are plenty of other options. And I learned how critical the de-whiskering issue is when I used Polyacrylic to paint a non-wood project (a jigsaw puzzle) and the first coat came out as smooth as glass.

  10. #10
    Senior User CrealBilly's Avatar
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    Re: Minwax Polycrylic

    Quote Originally Posted by ScottM View Post
    Great stuff. Just DO NOT use the polycrylic in the spray cans. The first 5-10 seconds will come out with clumps that do not wipe off. DAMHIK
    Quote Originally Posted by ErnieM View Post
    Steve wrote:

    Please share the secret. I just used the stuff on a game board I made for the grandkids and I thought it was just terrible. Couldn't avoid brush marks and couldn't sand them out either. I tried spraying with a rattle can after giving up on the brush. Scott is right on the money - the finish spits onto the surface and you can't sand that out either. Maybe I'm just too used to oil-based finishes but it'll be awhile before I try Polycrilic again. And - $10+ bucks for a rattle can!!

    Ernie
    Hey Ernie - I've never brushed the stuff but I can say it needs to be good and wet and it's not a finish to take your time with or put on supper thin. I've not used the rattle can either but it looks like there are two bad experiences with with it. That's a bummer for minwax... Minwax should know about some real live use cases, I think I'll send em an email...

    Thanks

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    Re: Minwax Polycrylic

    Hey Ernie - I've never brushed the stuff but I can say it needs to be good and wet and it's not a finish to take your time with or put on supper thin. I've not used the rattle can either but it looks like there are two bad experiences with with it. That's a bummer for minwax... Minwax should know about some real live use cases, I think I'll send em an email...

    Thanks
    Hey Jeff - don't email them. They may re-design their spray head and charge us $20. a can for the privilege of testing it for them.

    Steve - your finishing schedule is almost identical to mine. Still, yours came out great and mine came out not so great.

    Ernie
    www.ernestmillerharpsichords.com

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    Re: Minwax Polycrylic

    For the record both Deft and Minwax rattle cans have the same issue. Talking to the Deft rep it is a known problem. No matter how you store or shake some amount of solids settle in the tube.
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    Re: Minwax Polycrylic

    I'm currently refinishing my floors using AFM Polyureseal. Its a low VOC waterbased "green" poly similar to Polycrylic and I've learned a few things during the process.

    1) You have to knock the grain back after the first coat.
    2) For a longer time before it starts to set (more time for the brush marks to leave) mist the surface with water using a spary bottle. This really helped with it leveling out smooth.
    3) It takes a lot more coats (double) then an oil poly to get the same coverage. (important for floors, table tops)
    4) Foam pads like those for edging work really well since I'm covering a floor vs something small like a coffee table.

    Wes

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    Re: Minwax Polycrylic

    Quote Originally Posted by Kicbak View Post
    3) It takes a lot more coats (double) then an oil poly to get the same coverage. (important for floors, table tops)
    I noticed this too. In fact, Minwax recommends against using Polyacrylic for floors. On the flip side, it means protection with very little build thickness to obscure the wood, just a coat or two can look like the natural wood.

  15. #15
    Returning Member Travis Porter's Avatar
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    Re: Minwax Polycrylic

    From what I know, and that isn't a whole lot, Polycrilic is waterbased lacquer, and most are very similar.

    I prefer to brush it, but it should be put on wet and NOT brushed too much as it is self leveling. If you brush and brush you are going to have brush strokes....

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  1. Polycrylic
    By jeff... in forum Finishing
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    Last Post: 05-24-2007, 10:46 AM

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