HVLP finishing

[Travis Porter]

Well, tonight was the night I finally broke out the HVLP gun and Target USL water based finish I have had about a month, and I can sincerely say this is the only way to go. I will give SteveD credit, he is right on the money on finishing this way.

In about 3 hours, I have completely topcoated the toy box I have been working on (3 coats), cleaned the gun, and have no mess. Wearing a respirator is a must, ventilation is a must, but enclosing the area with drop cloths for overspray was a waste of time IMO.

I did learn what orange peel was tonight. I though it was the finish peeling, and now know it is the texture of the finish. Didn't have any issues with it, but I at times have comprehension issues.ops:

I would have pics, but I could not find the camera and LOML was asleep, and we don't wake her up as she is not a happy camper most nights due to my snoring waking her up anyway.:-( So, I will take a few tomorrow night and post then.

[Steve D]

Welcome to the slippery slope of spray finishes.

[Grgramps]

Travis,
Congratulations on your advancement to spraying. Can you tell us more about the equipment you decided on? Coversion gun, turbine system, compressor, etc? This is something that I have been thinking about for months, but have done nothing yet.
Roy

[Woody]

Would like to know more about that finishing method also. Had a piece or two sprayed by a pro, but that was costly.
George

[DavidF]

Good one Dave, you beat me to buying the equipment - what did you end up with?

[Travis Porter]

I bought the Porter Cable HVLP gravity feed conversion gun, I believe model number PSH1. Tom at Woodcraft even rang me up (doesn't remember me though :-( ), but I did get it for 10 percent off so I think total price was $90. I did buy an inline water extractor from Lowes that has the silica in it to keep water out of the lines. I already had a single stage 60 gal, 5hp compressor, so that made the most sense to me, and SteveD's comments about it and getting a gun got me motivated. Just has taken me awhile to use it.

As for finish, I decided to go with Target USL water based lacquer. I was a bit nervous about spraying oil without a booth, and wanted something a bit better than waterbased Poly. I have heard a lot of positives on the Target stuff, SteveD recommended it as well, and the price is actually as good as store bought so it made sense. From what I have read, when you add additional coats, it burns into the existing coat instead of just layering on top of it.

If you have a compressor, I would do a conversion gun. I sprayed 3 coats on what would be the size of a blanket chest with it last night and my compressor started up twice. Pressure from the compressor was down to 60 PSI, and I had the gun set around 37.

[mshel]

[quote=Travis Porter]I bought the Porter Cable HVLP gravity feed conversion gun, I believe model number PSH1.

As for finish, I decided to go with Target USL water based lacquer.

Travis,

Where are you purchasing your USL? I am interested in trying the HVLP gun and would like to give the USL a try. BTW, I see there are three models of that gun, what is the basic difference between the PSH1, PSH2, PSH3, other than the obvious price differences?

Mike

[woodguy1975]

Welcome to the slippery slope of spray finishes.

hehehehehehe.

What is a brush ?????????????????



Spray finishing is the way to go. I just need to get converted from solvent to waterbased.

[DavidF]

I think my only problem on my last finish was it was "dry" from what I have read. Too scared to open the finish flow valve

[Travis Porter]

I know what you mean about that. I learned orange peel very well, but it really is a lot easier to do than a high pressure gun. I have had a Binks high pressure gun for 10 years and used it twice. It was so messy with overspray it was just too much of a hassle. The HVLP was so clean it was shocking to me. You need a respirator that is for sure, but I bought the 3M one from Lowes for about $35 as it was rated for oil based solvents. I stuck a box fan in the window on low and it kept the fumes down. I did try it without either, and that was a mistake. The fumes are not a lot, but getting them out of the shop and breathing clean air even with waterbased lacquer is a must.

[DavidF]

What was your spraying distance Travis - there seem to be conflicting advise from 2" - 8" max.

[Travis Porter]

I was going about 6 to 10 inches. Any further didn't seem to get it on the wood and closer too much finish. I think it depends on how you have the gun adjusted.

[woodguy1975]

8" is the recommended distance for HVLP. You will learn to apply a wet coat. If you don't apply enough it doesn't flow out. YOu apply too much and it will run. Not enough atomization pressure and you orange peel. Then of course there is drying the peice. You want some airflow to help get rid of the solvents, but too much airflow and the finish will orange peel because it didn't have time to flow out. No air flow and you get slow drying. There are lots of lessons you learn as you go. You get the "feel" for it. I actually adjust my air flow by sound. As you get used to your gun and a particular finish you learn what needs to be done. Change finish and you have to relearn it all for that finish. I go back and try to spray a poly and have all sorts of problems getting it lay down the way I like it.

There is no spray finish like lacquer. Shellac comes in a close second, but poly and varnish are far behind. At least for me.

Good Luck,

John

[Travis Porter]

See, when you said orange peel, it made me think the finish was peeling, not the texture.

[Steve D]

Like everything else, there is a learning curve but spraying opens up so many options it is well worth mastering. Practice is important and best done on things other than projects (cardboard boxes). John is exactly right that you get a feel for your equipment and a given finish. Once you get the hang of it you just set up and go. FYI Travis, I normally spray 3 coats of the USL, sand smooth and spray a final coat.