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    Oil based stain & water based poly compatibility

    Are they compatible??? I have a project where I want the durability of poly without the off gassing, and I would like to stain it with a oil based stain that I've used for other pieces for a good match.
    Dave:-)
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    Honestly Honey, that will cost around $100 $150 $200, and I need a few more tools.

    Heard from a client..."If I had your tools and experience...I could do it myself"

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    Re: Oil based stain & water based poly compatibility

    Dave, I use Minwax oil stains and Varathane Diamond floor finish regularly. I let stain dry at least five days before spraying Diamond Gloss. Minwax says on their water based (Polycrylic, I think is the name) that you can apply the next day. I prefer for stain to no longer have that tacky feel to it, so additional drying time is included.

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    Re: Oil based stain & water based poly compatibility

    Cool, thanks Bruce. I thought so, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask those more experienced.
    Dave:-)
    :-D Nothing left to do but smile, smile, smile :-D

    Honestly Honey, that will cost around $100 $150 $200, and I need a few more tools.

    Heard from a client..."If I had your tools and experience...I could do it myself"

    "Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
    --Dr. Seuss

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    Re: Oil based stain & water based poly compatibility

    I have done it myself pretty heavily as well. Just be sure you let the stain cure for a few days and go from there. For me, it has been better than using the oil based polys as my previous experience has been the oil based polys will pull some of the darker stains out and mix with the finish.

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    Re: Oil based stain & water based poly compatibility

    From Highland Hardware Library:

    Using Hydrocote on Stains

    Can I apply Hydrocote water-based finishes over oil-based stains? I want to oil a cherry table to deepen its color, but I want a finish with more durability than oil.
    Yes, Hydrocote finishes work very well over many oil stains and finishes. Stains containing polyurethane might be problematic, but regular oil stains such as Minwax, or clear finishes such as Watco (except on open-pored wood) or tung oil have been thoroughly proven to work fine.


    The most reliable technique sounds totally screwy: sand the piece to around 180-220 grit, apply a generous coat of stain, allow the pigment to settle onto the wood for five or ten minutes, then wipe dry. In ideal conditions (75F and 45% relative humidity) allow to dry more than two hours but less than six (long enough for all the solvent to evaporate), then apply any Hydrocote finish. Yes, we know that completely ignores the rules on the can of stain, but it works! You'll get measurably better adhesion by applying the water-based finish over "green" stain rather than waiting for the oil to begin polymerizing, presenting a hard, slick base beneath your top coats.

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