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10-16-2008, 02:35 PM
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#1 |
Name: Jeremy City: Charlotte State: NC County: Mecklenburg Join Date: Mar 2006 Age: 30 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 6.84 over 180 days |
I'd like to drill out the threads on the cast iron legs of lathe to fit some casters ...
I've never done this before ... what type of drill bit should I be using? I have some black ones (type?) and some Titatnium coated ones in my misc bits bucket .... would they work, or do I need something specific?
Also, the recommendation earlier was to "step up" to the size I needed, but in what increment?  |  
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10-16-2008, 02:43 PM
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#2 |
Name: John Richards City: Hickory State: NC County: Burke Join Date: Oct 2005 Age: 33 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 4.67 over 180 days |
Originally Posted by WoodWrangler  I'd like to drill out the threads on the cast iron legs of lathe to fit some casters ...
I've never done this before ... what type of drill bit should I be using? I have some black ones (type?) and some Titatnium coated ones in my misc bits bucket .... would they work, or do I need something specific?
Also, the recommendation earlier was to "step up" to the size I needed, but in what increment? Dude, any HSS drill bit will drill Cast Iron. Cast Iron is actually one of the softer things to drill. I've drilled and tapped my fair share. The "black" drill bits or the "Titanium Nitrided coated" ones will do the job. I would probably step it up in 1/8" incremements since you are drilling it out by hand.
Good Luck,
John
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10-16-2008, 07:24 PM
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#3 |
Name: Dennis City: Ivan's Corner (Monroe) State: NC County: Union Join Date: Jan 2007 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 6.92 over 180 days |
Cast iron is only really hard on the surface. If you're starting into an area that has already been machined, this will have that shell knocked off & will be really soft. Most foundries usually place tapping holes in beefed areas that they then machine off for this purpose. Just be sure your bit is sharp so it doesn't walk off center.
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10-16-2008, 07:33 PM
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#4 |
Name: Rob City: Sanford State: NC County: Lee Join Date: Mar 2008 Age: 44 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 7.00 over 180 days |
Use oil, and drill slow. | |
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10-16-2008, 08:36 PM
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#5 |
Name: Fred City: franklinton State: nc County: franklin Join Date: Jun 2006 Age: 51 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 7.00 over 180 days |
not sure why you would want to drill out the threads?  If I were to put casters on my PM I would get some that have a thread mount. I believe they are taped 3/8x18TPI. the reason being is you would place a nut on the caster then thread it into the legs. you could use the nut to lock them in once you adjusted for uneven floors. screw the casters up or down till you got it sitting right then tighten the nut to lock em in. Then I would put some marks on the floor so I could put the lathe back to the same spot after moving it.  | |
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10-16-2008, 10:09 PM
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#6 |
Name: Jeremy City: Charlotte State: NC County: Mecklenburg Join Date: Mar 2006 Age: 30 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 6.84 over 180 days |
Originally Posted by FredP not sure why you would want to drill out the threads? If I were to put casters on my PM I would get some that have a thread mount. Well, originally I planned on "tapping" it, but I don't know how, don't have the tools, and don't plan on buying them (after seeing the price). Did I mention I don't know how? I don't think I want to "learn" on the PM.
Plus, after doing much research on how to make the PM mobile ... I read a post where a guy tapped it, but since regretted going to the extra effort. Why? Not sure, but I didn't understand the value either. So I thought I'd just drill thru, then run a bold through and tighten it with a nut to sandwich the leg (bad idea???)
I'd appreciate any feedback. I haven't done anything yet, but would like to soon. | |
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10-16-2008, 10:44 PM
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#7 |
Name: Jim Fossler City: Denver State: NC County: Lincoln Join Date: Sep 2007 Age: 61 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 5.83 over 180 days |
Jeremy,
Any reason you wouldn't want to use a mobile base instead? Seems a lot quicker, easier and more reversible to me.
The one I use on my Delta doesn't get in the way and is very stable.
Jim
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It's never too late to have a happy childhood. | |
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10-16-2008, 11:30 PM
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#8 |
Name: Fred City: franklinton State: nc County: franklin Join Date: Jun 2006 Age: 51 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 7.00 over 180 days |
Originally Posted by WoodWrangler Well, originally I planned on "tapping" it, but I don't know how, don't have the tools, and don't plan on buying them (after seeing the price). Did I mention I don't know how? I don't think I want to "learn" on the PM.
Plus, after doing much research on how to make the PM mobile ... I read a post where a guy tapped it, but since regretted going to the extra effort. Why? Not sure, but I didn't understand the value either. So I thought I'd just drill thru, then run a bold through and tighten it with a nut to sandwich the leg (bad idea???)
I'd appreciate any feedback. I haven't done anything yet, but would like to soon. I thought you got the 3520B? but I could be mistaken! .gif "Drogar Laugh(DBG)") mine came with the legs taped and adjustable feet. I'm guessing you already have the casters and they are a different thread size? taping is easy! buying the appropriate tap[not a set] isnt too expensive. [under 20 bucks] you dont need the tap handle. you can use a wrench. use plenty of lubricant and go slow backing off often to clear chips and relubricate. the hardest part is not twisting the tap. [they break!] turn slowly till it starts to get tight then back off. repeat till the tap goes completely through and spins freely. repeat! .gif "Drogar BigGrin(DBG)") be sure you drill the hole to the correct size. a 64th larger wont hurt. the drill size will be printed on the tap. I put my taps in a drill but that gets tricky if you've never done it before.  you can do it with double nuts for adjustment purposes but its much easier if you use a taped hole. I would also take the legs off and set them on the bench to do this.  laying on the floor with several hundred pounds of lathe sitting on blocks or suspended in air WILL make it MUCH more interestin! If you go this route POST PICS!!!! cast iron is easy to drill and tap. practice on sone 1/4 inch steel first to get a feel for it. If you can tap steel the cast iron will be a breeze. | |
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10-16-2008, 11:36 PM
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#9 |
Name: Jeremy City: Charlotte State: NC County: Mecklenburg Join Date: Mar 2006 Age: 30 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 6.84 over 180 days |
Originally Posted by FuzzWuzz16 Jeremy,
Any reason you wouldn't want to use a mobile base instead? Seems a lot quicker, easier and more reversible to me.
The one I use on my Delta doesn't get in the way and is very stable.
Jim If possible, I'd prefer to avoid the mobile base as I want to keep the feet space clear directly in front of the bed of the lathe and think the bar from the base will be in the way. The other downside of most mobile bases IMHO is that they have these wheels that jet out the ends with sharp corners ... just annoying and a sure ankle banger.
As well, the wheels I have use rubber feet to rest on instead of the wheel itself when in the "parked" position. They work well on the heavy machinery and I hope will work well on the PM3520B. | |
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10-17-2008, 06:09 AM
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#10 | | Administrator
Name: Chad City: Hookerton State: NC County: Greene Join Date: Feb 2006 Age: 54 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 6.96 over 180 days |
Originally Posted by FredP I thought you got the 3520B? but I could be mistaken! mine came with the legs taped and adjustable feet. I'm guessing you already have the casters and they are a different thread size? taping is easy! buying the appropriate tap[not a set] isnt too expensive. [under 20 bucks] you dont need the tap handle. you can use a wrench. use plenty of lubricant and go slow backing off often to clear chips and relubricate. the hardest part is not twisting the tap. [they break!] turn slowly till it starts to get tight then back off. repeat till the tap goes completely through and spins freely. repeat! be sure you drill the hole to the correct size. a 64th larger wont hurt. the drill size will be printed on the tap. I put my taps in a drill but that gets tricky if you've never done it before. you can do it with double nuts for adjustment purposes but its much easier if you use a taped hole. I would also take the legs off and set them on the bench to do this. laying on the floor with several hundred pounds of lathe sitting on blocks or suspended in air WILL make it MUCH more interestin! If you go this route POST PICS!!!! cast iron is easy to drill and tap. practice on sone 1/4 inch steel first to get a feel for it. If you can tap steel the cast iron will be a breeze.
Very good Fred you have passed tapping Cast Iron 101 next tapping 316SS.  You are right on!
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10-17-2008, 08:08 AM
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#11 |
Name: Fred City: franklinton State: nc County: franklin Join Date: Jun 2006 Age: 51 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 7.00 over 180 days |
thanks chad! I've pro;;y only tapped a couple hundred thousand holes.  aluminum is the worst!  stainless isnt that bad.  the softer the metal or hehehe plastic the more it clogs the tap. clogs cause breakage! broken taps aint fun  . I S my degree in the mail? I can understand jerremy being afeared of it though. the first time is intimidating. after ya break a few taps you get the hang of it! | |
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10-17-2008, 08:20 AM
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#12 | | Administrator
Senior Moderator
Name: Tracy City: Salisbury State: NC County: Rowan Join Date: Feb 2008 Age: 47 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 6.96 over 180 days |
Jeremy, I have a tap and die set you could borrow if you like. I could bring it to Hickory next weekend.
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10-17-2008, 09:35 AM
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#13 |
Name: Dino City: Myrtle Beach State: SC County: Horry Join Date: Jan 2007 Age: 66 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 6.65 over 180 days |
One more thing before you tap those holes. Use course threads instead of fine threads when threading cast iron.
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10-18-2008, 10:31 AM
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#14 |
Name: Glenn City: Baskerville State: VA County: Mecklenburg Join Date: Jan 2008 Age: 59 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 6.69 over 180 days |
Originally Posted by dino drosas One more thing before you tap those holes. Use course threads instead of fine threads when threading cast iron. Amen!!! back in my drag racing days when car building I quickly discovered the advantage of USS vs SAE threads. Of course now we have the Imperial vs Metric threads thrown into the mix
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