Surf was UP today

Trent Mason · 02-14-2008, 12:20 AM

I know most of you aren't into surfing, but once in a while, when the waves are kickin' I might have to share a photo of it. It was BIG and mean out there today. This wasn't me in the photo, but I picked off a few like this one.

This photo was borrowed with respect from http://wblivesurf.com/

Cheers,

Trent

Jon · 02-14-2008, 12:31 AM

where was that pic taken?

DaveO · 02-14-2008, 12:34 AM

That's a really cool site. Almost like a traffic cam, but for more fun

Dave

Trent Mason · 02-14-2008, 12:35 AM

Probably taken from Columbia St or Stone St in Wrightsville Beach.

Trent Mason · 02-14-2008, 12:50 AM

Originally Posted by DaveO

That's a really cool site. Almost like a traffic cam, but for more fun
Dave

Yes, it is a great site. The owner/operator of that site is Tony Butler. He is (more or less) the ambassador of surfing for Southern North Carolina "SNC" and he fought for and won our current surfzones for the summertime. If you're ever in Wrightsville Beach, go by Sweetwater Surf Shop and say hello to Tony.

Trent

cskipper · 02-14-2008, 05:18 AM

Ray Martin · 02-14-2008, 09:34 AM

Does anybody make surfboards out of wood any more?

Ray

Trent Mason · 02-14-2008, 09:40 AM

Originally Posted by Ray Martin

Does anybody make surfboards out of wood any more?

Ray

Absolutely, all though nowadays they are more of a collector's item. Check out this website below. This is actually what got me into woodworking. I wanted to make a surfboard coffee table that looked really similar to one of their retro-fish boards. I think most of their boards are hollow and constructed of balsa and cedar(?) Truly beautiful pieces of work.

http://www.grainsurfboards.com/

Trent

Glennbear · 02-14-2008, 11:57 AM

Originally Posted by wtf21

I know most of you aren't into surfing, but once in a while, when the waves are kickin' I might have to share a photo of it. It was BIG and mean out there today. This wasn't me in the photo, but I picked off a few like this one.

This photo was borrowed with respect from http://wblivesurf.com/

Cheers,

Trent

Before I moved to VA last spring I lived in OCEAN county NJ within minutes of the beach. Your post brought back some vivid memories. Thanks

cpowell · 02-14-2008, 11:18 PM

That dude looks goofy to me.

Nice pic, really, waves are good, wind is right!!

I grew up in Jax Beach, FL, three blocks from the ocean.

I remember checking the waves every morning. There was a unique sound I could hear when I walked toward the beach and the surf was big. Eerily quiet a block or two away then just kind of a faint sound growing as I got closer. I still remember hearing the kinda hollow, pounding sound that means big waves and no mush. And then cresting the rise and seeing the lines. Heart pumping.

The most fun for me was the tropical storms/hurricanes that stayed well offshore but fed us the swells. Offshore breezes in the morning. I still can close my eyes and remember the spray coming off the top of the waves as they started to break. Or starting to drop in on a wave and backing off when I didn't like the line, the spray would just wrap me up. Depending on tide and sandbar formations we'd get three breaks on big swell days. Outside big but barely breaking, mid bar was awesome and shore break was for the idiots who didn't know any better - top to bottom and pure closeout.

Wow...lost me there for a minute or two. Thanks for the pic and the link. I'll have to check it out.

Chuck

erasmussen · 02-14-2008, 11:43 PM

I grew up in the redondo beach area
When we were kids we would ride our bikes to the beach and body surf we never had any boards, but we were good at body surffing

Trent Mason · 02-14-2008, 11:46 PM

Originally Posted by cpowell

That dude looks goofy to me.

Nice pic, really, waves are good, wind is right!!

I grew up in Jax Beach, FL, three blocks from the ocean.

I remember checking the waves every morning. There was a unique sound I could hear when I walked toward the beach and the surf was big. Eerily quiet a block or two away then just kind of a faint sound growing as I got closer. I still remember hearing the kinda hollow, pounding sound that means big waves and no mush. And then cresting the rise and seeing the lines. Heart pumping.

The most fun for me was the tropical storms/hurricanes that stayed well offshore but fed us the swells. Offshore breezes in the morning. I still can close my eyes and remember the spray coming off the top of the waves as they started to break. Or starting to drop in on a wave and backing off when I didn't like the line, the spray would just wrap me up. Depending on tide and sandbar formations we'd get three breaks on big swell days. Outside big but barely breaking, mid bar was awesome and shore break was for the idiots who didn't know any better - top to bottom and pure closeout.

Wow...lost me there for a minute or two. Thanks for the pic and the link. I'll have to check it out.

Chuck

Chuck,

I know EXACTLY the sound and the emotions that go along with it. The swell that we just had was the first SE swell in a while (dead onshore for us). We've had several SW swells and a few NE swells, but recently, the beach hasn't accepted them well. Your description pretty much describes, word for word what I felt yesterday afternoon as I walked up my favorite beach access. I'm glad it brought back some great memories for you.

I will have to point out one disparity though. I surfed waist to stomach high shorebreak today (at high tide) and had a blast. I love to surf shorebreak because it forces you to time everything perfectly and you HAVE to be in the right place at the right time. If I smack the lip and know that I'm going to land in less than a foot of water, I usually just ditch my board and land on my feet (can't afford to break a board right now). My dream is to be able to afford new boards when I need them. Then I'll try and land them.

Great to meet another surfer on this forum. I never would've imagined that I would. If you're ever going to be in the area, give me a call and if there is surf, I'll paddle out with you, or at least let you know where to go.

Trent

mcoston2 · 02-15-2008, 01:06 AM

I remember when. Back in 73 thru 78 Wrightsville beach and Carolina beach the surf was up all the time. anytime during any season. Until 75 when skateboards became real popular. Then it was either surfing the water or pavement, didn't matter. Still got my skateboards but not my surfboard. It's great to think about that.. Thanks

cpowell · 02-15-2008, 07:59 PM

Originally Posted by wtf21

Chuck,

I know EXACTLY the sound and the emotions that go along with it. The swell that we just had was the first SE swell in a while (dead onshore for us). We've had several SW swells and a few NE swells, but recently, the beach hasn't accepted them well. Your description pretty much describes, word for word what I felt yesterday afternoon as I walked up my favorite beach access. I'm glad it brought back some great memories for you.

I will have to point out one disparity though. I surfed waist to stomach high shorebreak today (at high tide) and had a blast. I love to surf shorebreak because it forces you to time everything perfectly and you HAVE to be in the right place at the right time. If I smack the lip and know that I'm going to land in less than a foot of water, I usually just ditch my board and land on my feet (can't afford to break a board right now). My dream is to be able to afford new boards when I need them. Then I'll try and land them.

Great to meet another surfer on this forum. I never would've imagined that I would. If you're ever going to be in the area, give me a call and if there is surf, I'll paddle out with you, or at least let you know where to go.

Trent

Actually, I'm an ex-surfer. I haven't even tried for the past 25 years. I would still be willing to give it a go but I'd want a log...and NOT big surf. I'm thinking 4 ft with a crumble break - you know, the kinda stuff you can walk around the board on without fear of a memorable trip over the falls. Slow left-to-right break would be nice since I surf regular foot (although I skateboard and snowboard goofy).

Surfing is really awesome. I'm green with envy.

Chuck

Trent Mason · 02-15-2008, 08:47 PM

Chuck,

If what you're looking for are 4 ft crumbly waves, you should move here.

I'm actually looking at moving out West in a year or two so I can get some solid surf on a regular basis. It has been FLAT here (for the most part) for longer than I can remember. It's really gotten to the point where I'll go 2 or 3 weeks without surfing. The LOML calls it "my time of the month," which unfortunately for her, lasts for weeks on end. And we guys thought we had it bad.

Glad to hear you're still skating though. I've never skated, but I could definitely see myself getting a sector 9 or something if I ever had to move inland. It's pretty sad actually. When most people think about their priorities in life, their family and their career are usually the first two. For me, well, there is family and then surfing. I've just come to the realization that I will probably never be able to make a substantial amount of money doing what I love. Therefore, surfing comes before my career. I guess my dream would be to make a living doing woodworking and living in a place that has good surf. I don't think that is too crazy, but it will take time and work to accomplish.

There should be a nice longboard wave all weekend if you want to come down.

Trent

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