Chainsawing - Yell TIMBER

[jeff...]

Although I cut a few myself - I'm not sure I know the proper way to fell a tree with a chain saw. I recently seen two threads posted here with pictures of untrimmed recently fallen butt cuts, surprisingly the cuts look way different. Felling trees with a chainsaw can be very dangerous for obvious reasons. For safety sake and before someone gets hurt can we have a dialog about how to properly cut a tree down with a chainsaw. With the stipulation that it's cut at your won risk.

I think there is a little more involved than cut and run - you know?

Thanks

[Badabing]

There was an episode of Woodturning Workshop where they used a chainsaw to cut down a tree. The instruction was very good but unfortunately I don't remember much of it (it went into the category of my brain ''interesting information but won't be any use to me'').

Anyhow, thought I'd throw that out there in case anyone remembers it...

[Will Goodwin]

That would be a long thread to do it right Jeff. We'd have to discuss the following topics:

1. Felling, topping, limbing, etc. (all very different and used at different times).
2. Safety equipment (climbing gear, log peavey - if you've ever had your leg pinned between a log and anything else, you know why you need one, etc.)
3. Proper tools for the job and proper maintenance(sharpening,chain tension)
4. Safety concerns (property damage, power lines, bees, hypothermia, kickback, binding)

And I've just touched the surface. I gained a lot of experience one summer when I worked running a hydraulic log splitter for a guy who did that for a living.

Will

[jeff...]

Dang and I thought ya'll would be up to the challenge. Ok how about just proper wedge and back cut technique then?

[jerrye]

I'm with Will. Too complex to answer with just a few suggestions/guidelines. Maybe you can find a few to fell, and we can meet on site for OJT....if someone can provide a saw for me I'll join in! I'm not a pro, but I have felled/bucked/limbed/topped a few trees in my day.

Whaddya think Jeff? And others?

[Will Goodwin]

Here are some good links (of course nothing replaces professional experience and having a buddy along to help in case anything goes wrong):

http://forestry.about.com/od/chainsaws/ss/fell_tree.htm

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logg...g/felling.html

Be safe!

Will

[jeff...]

Interesting that there are two different kinds of wedge cutting techniques described isn't it? They are completely different aren't they?.

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logg...cuts/cuts.html






http://forestry.about.com/od/chainsaws/ss/fell_tree.htm

[Kyle]

I have cut down a LOT of trees big and small, but hesitant to tell people how to do it due to liability reasons.

here is a link from the other site(s)

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...Practices.html
http://forestry.about.com/od/chainsaws/ss/fell_tree.htm


There is a top cut, bottom cut or humboldt cut. this site has pictures..me likey.
http://www.coloradofirecamp.com/s-21...ossary_G-H.htm

[Threejs]

Originally Posted by jeff...

http://forestry.about.com/od/chainsaws/ss/fell_tree.htm

I was taught to cut a tree as shown above. Doesn't mean that it is correct, and the fact I might cut down 2 or 3 a year means I am no expert.

Actually, my boys got a new trampoline, after I bullseyed theirs when I had a tree snag and turn on me. (it is times like that when you wish you were Yoda, and could stop the tree in midfall, and place it where you wanted it in the first place)

[jerrye]

Open face is what I was taught.



Controls the tree better and longer before the hinge breaks. In my experience anyway. Never had a tree kick sideways on me. I have had kick out with traditional shallow or flat bottom notch. SCARY.

[jeff...]

jerrye, you mention a flat bottom notch - is this way good or bad?

Thanks

[Gofor]

1st rule: Make sure you have a clear unimpeded way to get clear whenever making ANY cuts. This means at least 2 escape routes in different directions. The guy who designed the chain saw did not design the tree, and mother nature can put Murphy to shame (no offense Jim!!) in the twists she throws into mans's endeavors.

Jeff, in your picture that cut is bad. The back cut should go above the bottom of the notch (more horizontal) and it still may kick back if it slabs out.

Go

[jeff...]

Originally Posted by Gofor

1st rule: Make sure you have a clear unimpeded way to get clear whenever making ANY cuts. This means at least 2 escape routes in different directions. The guy who designed the chain saw did not design the tree, and mother nature can put Murphy to shame (no offense Jim!!) in the twists she throws into mans's endeavors.

Jeff, in your picture that cut is bad. The back cut should go above the bottom of the notch (more horizontal) and it still may kick back if it slabs out.

Go

Gotcha Mr. Go something more like this maybe any better?

[jerrye]

Go is ABSOLUTELY right. Gotta have a clear felling path as well as open escape route. He also is right in that you want your back cut to come in more horizontal, just above the center of the notch. If you come in at an acute angle, and you need to wedge, it's tougher when the back cut is angled.
Jeff, in my experience a flat bottom notch has more chance of kickout, sideways or straight back, because the falling tree contacts the bottom of the notch when it is at an approximate 45° angle, which will break the hinge almost every time. With an open notch the tree contacts the bottom of the notch when it is at, or near, the limbs contacting the ground, so any kickout will be minimal, and the control of the fall is better.

[jeff...]

Originally Posted by jerrye

Go is ABSOLUTELY right. Gotta have a clear felling path as well as open escape route. He also is right in that you want your back cut to come in more horizontal, just above the center of the notch. If you come in at an acute angle, and you need to wedge, it's tougher when the back cut is angled.
Jeff, in my experience a flat bottom notch has more chance of kickout, sideways or straight back, because the falling tree contacts the bottom of the notch when it is at an approximate 45° angle, which will break the hinge almost every time. With an open notch the tree contacts the bottom of the notch when it is at, or near, the limbs contacting the ground, so any kickout will be minimal, and the control of the fall is better.

This could be why the trees I've cut the hinge wood really never snaps. It more pulls out of stump or the trunk. I can see what you are talking about and the top of the notch hitting the flat bottom and pulling the hinge wood fiber out of the stump or the trunk before it's close to the ground. it would be better to have it actually act as a hinge like it's intended to by taking a dual angled wedge cut. Got it and understand thanks.

Now how about the back cut why should it be more horizontal than at a slight angle?

BTW I'm removing my hacked up pictures so I don't confuse anyone.

Thanks

Thanks