Workbench base WIP - COMPLETED! - Page 8

Workbench base WIP - COMPLETED! · 07-11-2007, 11:29 AM

As some of you may remember I bought a Maple pattern makers bench top from Tarhead a while back. I am now in the process of making a base for the top. I have most of the wood cut and it's time to start gluing. I am using the Black Walnut and Maple that I got from Jeff. Everything will be mortise and tenon. I am using the Maple for the legs and Black Walnut for the feet and rails. I'll post more pics as the gluing continues.

Here are the legs glues up.

nelsone · 05-02-2008, 01:58 PM

"bout time!

Looks good Mike! Now get those vises on it! How rounded are the edges? If you are still planning to flatten the top? That will help it some, then maybe trim the edges a little? I have a hand held electric planner if you want to use it.

Bas · 05-02-2008, 04:54 PM

That looks great! Better get those vises on quick, or you'll cover the surface with tools, projects etc. and won't have room to work

Before you know it, it'll be 2009

Man that thing looks solid, that should really help with your projects.

MikeH · 05-02-2008, 07:08 PM

Originally Posted by nelsone

"bout time!

Looks good Mike! Now get those vises on it! How rounded are the edges? If you are still planning to flatten the top? That will help it some, then maybe trim the edges a little? I have a hand held electric planner if you want to use it.

I think I have a way of solving the rounded edges. I'm going to edge band the entire top so the top of the band it flush with the top. Then I'll route out an area between the edge band and the level part of the top and glue in a contrasting wood. Problem solved.

Does this make sense?

nelsone · 05-02-2008, 07:15 PM

Makes sense to me! I think that will look good, nothing like a little inlay to add some pop to a workbench!

Canuck · 05-02-2008, 07:16 PM

You will be able to do some serious pounding and persuading on that bench!!! Sure looks like ain't gonna go anywhere.

Great work. Bet you are almost ready to put it to work!

Thanks for sharing the latest progress.

Wayne

MikeH · 05-02-2008, 07:16 PM

Originally Posted by nelsone

Makes sense to me! I think that will look good, nothing like a little inlay to add some pop to a workbench!

Yup! Now all I have to do is figure out how to make the rails and sled to run the router over the top. Does anyone have good plans or ideas for this?

nelsone · 05-03-2008, 12:42 AM

Dad did this with a table he built. I'll see if he has any pics.

Tarhead · 05-03-2008, 09:55 AM

Looks great Mike! Happy to see your progress. Mine is exactly where it was in the photo from a year ago but now has about 3 ft of stuff piled up on it. I've been wondering about the same round edge problem with my half of the top.

Here's where I'm heading with mine:

The top is a bunch of individual 2" thick Maple boards bolted together (not glued) on edge. You can unbolt it and run the top edge of each board through a jointer taking off just the amount you need to clean it up. Run the 2 outside pieces through your planer to get a square corner. Then reassemble upside down on a flat surface with a few clamping cauls running perpendicular to keep it flat and tighten the bolts. You have ~1/4" leeway in the holes for the threaded rods so all boards don't have to be the same width. Flip it over and replace it on your base and wrap it up.

Remember my advise about checking the top with a metal detector! Just takes 1 brad to ruin your day.

MikeH · 05-03-2008, 02:31 PM

Originally Posted by Tarhead

The top is a bunch of individual 2" thick Maple boards bolted together (not glued) on edge. You can unbolt it and run the top edge of each board through a jointer taking off just the amount you need to clean it up. Run the 2 outside pieces through your planer to get a square corner. Then reassemble upside down on a flat surface with a few clamping cauls running perpendicular to keep it flat and tighten the bolts. You have ~1/4" leeway in the holes for the threaded rods so all boards don't have to be the same width. Flip it over and replace it on your base and wrap it up.

Remember my advise about checking the top with a metal detector! Just takes 1 brad to ruin your day.

Thanks Mark. The base is very solid and I can hardly move the bench. I need ideas on making it mobile.

I'm leary of unbolting the top. Who knows how long it has been bolted and I'm afraid of what the pieces might do once released. I think I'm just going to go over it with a metal detector and then run a router over it to smooth it out. I'll be curious to see if the wood wants to move when you unbolt it.

cpowell · 05-04-2008, 10:30 AM

Lookin good, Mike.

Are you going to add drawers?

(I'm STILL working on my workbench drawers.)

Chuck

MikeH · 05-04-2008, 02:35 PM

Originally Posted by cpowell

Lookin good, Mike.

Are you going to add drawers?

(I'm STILL working on my workbench drawers.)

Chuck

I'm not sure yet. I'm thinking about a cabinet or something for storage. Can you give me a tutorial on how you flattened the top of your bench?

cpowell · 05-04-2008, 08:52 PM

Originally Posted by MikeH

I'm not sure yet. I'm thinking about a cabinet or something for storage. Can you give me a tutorial on how you flattened the top of your bench?

Cab storage is a good idea.

I used a router sled running on extruded aluminum rails to flatten my top. The sled made sense to me because
1. I didn't have hand planes to do the job.
2. I didn't know how to use hand planes at all. The task seemed daunting to me.
3. I had to remove a LOT of stock in some areas following top glue-up.

I borrowed the side rails from work. They were quite flat (I used a straight edge and a taut line to verify flatness). It took a while to make the sled and align the side rails. I then inserted a dial indicator and ran a profile of the top to find the lowest area. The actual routing took a few hours and made a big mess of shavings/sawdust. Eye, ear and respiratory protection mandatory.

Once done routing there are a whole lot of very small grooves that will need to be cleaned up. I used a ROS and 120 grit. They could easily be sanded down with a block of wood. A sharp hand plane could clean them up in minutes.

From your photos the top appears to be in decent shape. Have you laid a straight edge across the top in different areas to check for flatness? If your top is pretty flat then hand planes would make a lot more sense than a router. A wide belt sander would also be easier.

Mike, you will need to have the utmost level of trust in your router collet. If the bit slips it will cause problems.

The sled must be FLAT and support the router with minimal sag. You must guide the router without applying downward force - the weight of the router will do the job. I started with a new bit and it was trash bin material by the time I'd finished.

Here's a pic from my gallery. I was about half way through routing the top. The photo exaggerates the grooves. The grooves clean quickly and easily. If you find a router bit with a very flat top and the axis of the router is perpendicular to the surface then cleanup is a cinch.

Chuck