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Old 04-15-2008, 02:52 PM   #1
 
Name: Keye
City: Lancaster
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I am tired of fighting with long boards and the short support on my compound miter saw (Dewalt). I have room at the end of my workbench to extend it and make a place for my miter saw. The workbench is flush against a wall with cabinets under it. I don't use it as a typical workbench but it would make a great support for long boards. I sure would like to see some pictures on how you intergrated your miter saw level with a support surface.
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Old 04-15-2008, 03:05 PM   #2
 
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I don't have pics at the moment but what I have seen done was someone drilled holes in benchtop (1") and then made blocks with corresponding dowels that made a level support surface for miter saw usage. When not in use for Compound Miter Saw support the bench top is free for other uses without the trouble of "recessing" the saw. The blocks can be placed in the right row of holes to match whatever length stock you are cutting
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Old 04-15-2008, 03:26 PM   #3
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Glenn,

I like your idea. You can even guarantee a perfect level with those blocks... just cut close then shave or sand the tops to make them perfect. I Think Norm used something like this for his dedicated bench top mortise machine, but I don't think he put the series of holes for varying lengths of board.

Ray
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Old 04-15-2008, 04:33 PM   #4
 
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This is a movable workstation. Old pic doesn't show guide fence between planner & Sliding Compund Miter Saw, end vise or DC connections.
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Old 04-15-2008, 04:38 PM   #5
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Here is what I did

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Old 04-15-2008, 04:50 PM   #6
 
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Oh, I thought you meant you couldn't find it down there.

I was gonna say you could attach a homing device once you found it.
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Old 04-15-2008, 04:56 PM   #7
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Here's mine



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Old 04-15-2008, 05:33 PM   #8
 
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I built a miter saw table w/extensions from plans in ShopNotes or WoodSmith, I think. It's 4' wide, but has extensions that pull out from either end to about 3' on either side of the saw, for an overall of about 9-10'. Works well for me.

Can be compacted to 4' for transport or smaller pieces. If you're interested, I'll try to look up the plans.

Good luck on whatever solution you decide to implement.

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Old 04-15-2008, 07:34 PM   #9
 
Name: Keye
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Thanks for the pics guys. I have some ideas to work from now.

Jon, what do you have your case attached to the wall with. With all those large drawers all the way out and it still does not tilt over.
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Old 04-15-2008, 08:43 PM   #10
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This is the one I am building
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Old 04-15-2008, 09:09 PM   #11
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its attached to the wall.
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Old 04-15-2008, 09:30 PM   #12
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Mine.....



The work surface has recently been upgraded to this -



Which was easy to do, just put the same material under the Compound Miter Saw as on top and you will stay at the right level.
Dave
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Honestly Honey, that will cost around $100 $150 $200, and I need a few more tools.

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Old 04-15-2008, 10:54 PM   #13
 
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I'm just setting up my shop & this is what I did:
[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/DENNIS/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/IMG]




[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/DENNIS/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 04-16-2008, 12:23 PM   #14
 
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Anyone ever seen one of these where the miter saw was bolted to a platform which could flip over so you could use the workspace for something else? The saw would hang upside-down like the lunchbox planer/outfeed table roll-around cart in the build a shop article from FW a few months ago.

Any comments on the brilliance or sheer stupidity of trying it?

- Steve
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Old 04-16-2008, 04:39 PM   #15
 
Name: Keye
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Steve, I saw the article you are talking about. Little extreme for me. Of course some folks take great pride in their shops. To me a shop is just a means to an end. I would rather make furniture than stuff for the shop. If you saw what I made today to hold my miter saw you would understand.

I finally got rid of my original router table. It was two saw horses, a piece of plywood with a hole for the bit, a router screwed to the bottom of the plywood, a 2X4 with a notch for the fence and two clamps to hold the fence down. Can't do anything with my new I could not do with the old one. I will say the top stays flatter.
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