shop heat

[Matt Schnurbusch]

My shop is set up in my brothers 4000sf building. His office space takes up about 1000sf. My actual shop space takes up about 900sf. The problem is that the shop space is wide open to the 3000sf warehouse area of the building. All that space seems great, and it is, but heating it is going to be a bit of a problem. Open rafters, no insulation anywhere, and literally 3000sf of space to contend with.

Will a kerosene burner/blower suffice just to keep me from freezing? I'm thinking something like this...LINK

Not sure if it will be enough. I was thinking of putting up a plastic wall for the winter, and maybe doing something for the ceiling to keep some heat in, but plywood and insulation isn't going to happen.

Any thoughts, or alternatives? Wood fired heater is going to happen either, can't cut holes in the walls or roof. Also, I'm all the way in the back of the building.

Matt

[Bigdog72]

Your link is coming up blank but I assume you are looking at something like a Reddy heater which is kerosene fired. Because of several factors including having to buy and handle kerosene, smell and fumes my preference would be a propane space heater. http://www.amazon.com/Heater-F274800...ref=pd_sim_k_4 Of course, this is simply to keep you warm while in close proximity to the heater. A plastic wall and some plastic nailed to the rafters would certainly add to your comfort.

[Gotcha6]

Find some mesh reinforced polyethylene & build a curtain wall. You'll need to be concerned with wind - use battens w/ screws on studs to hold it in place. Take the plastic all the way to the rafters. Don't get the building too tight. Propane heaters need ventilation. You'll find the fuel to be a bit pricey too. .....and manage your dust!

[ScottM]

Matt, the link did not work for me. First and foremost with any flame type heat source you will need a working carbon monxide detector and smoke detector. Is there any way to install temporary partions? Even if just 2x4 and plastic sheeting will help keep the heat contained.

[cubicdissection]

I have the *exact* same situation as you. I rent the back 1/3 of a 4000SF warehouse. Tried the plastic sheet thing and quit using it because it made the space really closed in. My solution was a propane forced air heater. Even the little one I have throws off a ton of heat. Tanks are a bit pricy, but just another cost of doing business. I dont tend to run it all the time...just crank it up until I'm warm, then turn it on again when I notice I'm cold. You're not gonna be wearing flipflops and board shorts, but it will get you through the winter just fine. I'd skip on any electric type space heaters or oil radiators...been there done that and they're pretty much worthless in such a large space.

EDIT: here's the type I have. Sucker will warm you up from 10 feet away, and warm up the general area around you QUICK. Don't sue me if you die, but fumes have never been an issue with it given so much open space, and I doubt it will be for you.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...50C&lpage=none

[ptt49er]

What about something like this?

We're hoping to move soon and the shop there won't be heated, so I'm thinking about something cheap.

[DaveO]

Originally Posted by ptt49er

What about something like this?

We're hoping to move soon and the shop there won't be heated, so I'm thinking about something cheap.

I wonder if that would work with Natural Light cans...I got a bunch of them

Dave

[scsmith42]

Depending upon your budget, rather than using clear plastic for your walls consider Tekfoil from Farmtek.com

I use it in my kiln, and it works fantastic. In terms of reflective and emissive heat, it is 97% effective. Basically it will keep the heat in that you generate inside it.

The "F/B/B/WP" (foil, bubble, bubble, white poly) will provide you with a white surface that will reflect light very well.

Scott

[thrytis]

What about some sort of radiant heat source? That way you aren't trying to heat all the air, just what it is pointed at. You'll feel the effects of it a lot quicker too.

[Glennbear]

IMHO a vent free propane heater would be the way to go. A lot of these have an oxygen depletion sensor built in but I would definitely supplement it with a CO detector As Geoff had said, kero is just too dang smelly and messy.

[Matt Schnurbusch]

The heater that I am considering is of the same type mentioned below.

Originally Posted by cubicdissection

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...50C&lpage=none

I don't know why my link didn't work for you guys I checked it three times and had no issues.

I'm hoping a heater of this type will move enough heat across the area to take most of the chill off. I don't expect to be able to wear shorts or anything but I would like to be able to have feeling in my fingers. I don't mind wearing a heavy sweatshirt, but I don't want to have to wear so many layers that I look like the michelin man. Given the size of the space that I have, will a 50kbtu heater do the trick or will I need something larger? Again, I do plan on hanging some plastic/tarps or something to help keep some of the heat in. I just can't afford to wall it off with conventional materials.

Matt

[mshel]

Matt,

I have this one and it will heat up my shop fairly quickly ( approx 1375 sq ft).
http://www.mrheater.com/productdetai...catid=46&id=30

I have a 100 lb tank for it. My only complaint is it is fairly noisy. I will often use it to take the chill off the shop then switch to this:


http://www.mrheater.com/productdetai...atid=42&id=119 to keep the area I am working in tolerable. Last winter I went through (2) 100 lb fills and (4) 20lb fills.

My shop has zero insulation and the only saving grace is it is an all metal building so if the sun comes out, it helps warm up the building.

MIke

[rick7938]

Just keep an eye out for rust. Cold cast iron/steel and warm, moist air creates the potential for a lot of rust.

[rsitzejr]

I have a propane heater, similar to this http://www.mrheater.com/productdetai...catid=46&id=30 Though I haven't used it since I started woodworking. My question would be since it's a live flame, wouldn't wood dust be dangerous?

Usually I light it for about 40 minutes then kill it before going to work.

[Matt Schnurbusch]

I still haven't decided what I am going to do to solve this little thermal issue. I should be out at the shop today, but I'm not cause it's so cold out.

Matt