Moving your workshop

[rcorne01]

Originally Posted by Bigdog72

First rule in marriage:

It's better to be happy than right.

Keep that in mind when dealing with the LOYL!!!

I listen to Baseball This Morning on XM, and that is Buck Martinez's mantra: What would you rather be? Happy or right! I grin every time I hear it!!

[Glennbear]

Over the past 18 months I have moved my household and shop contents from home to storage in NJ, NJ to house and storage in VA , storage in VA to house and shop. I cannot add much that hasn't already been said except to second what JimmyC said about keeping track of container contents and I found large plastic tubs handier than cardboard boxes. One last note, NEVER trust bungee cords to secure machines in moving truck
DAMHIKT (replacement parts for a RAS can be pricey)

[Gotcha6]

I'll title my reply. "If i had it to do over":

1. I'd STILL get the 12 gallon flip top storage containers ($6 each) - but with the wire hinges. They're handy for may things afterwards - storing Christmas decorations, computer parts, etc.

2. I WOULDN'T pile stuff into them willy nilly. Organize your stuff by category before you move it.

3. I WOULD label each container, even though they are semi - clear.

4. I WOULD have some semblance of an idea about how my shop would be laid out and the wiring & cabinets organized.

5. I'd STILL borrow a tilt top trailer and a winch or some pipe rollers. A pallet jack is nice but it won't climb some slopes.

6. I'd STILL strap everything down like I wanted it to stay on the trailer if it was flipped over (it didn't).

7. I WOULD sort through my tools & such asking myself if I really needed that. You'd be surprised how many duplicates of tools you can accumulate - and how many you really don't need. Drill bits and sockets can breed on ya.

8. I WOULD have a garage sale after I'd moved the things I really needed & thin out some stuff.

[scsmith42]

As usual, lots of good advice on this string.

What I would add to what has alredy been stated:

1 - get the plastic containers that Bruce recommends a few weeks in advance, and pack up all of the small items in your shop in advance.

2 - think of tools that you will need right away (saw, drill, screwdrivers, screws, etc) in moving into a new house, and pack them all together in a separate container(s) that you keep with you. Things for hanging paintings, fixing "oops's" that occur during the move, etc.

3 - Assemble a bunch of friends, and move your large items first, and in particular any tables and workbenches. This will provide you with a place to stack all of the boxes while you're unloading. If you have the ability to wire the shop and add lighting in advance, do it.

4 - If you can move your shop early, you can then devote a few weeks time to getting the house put together (see item 2 above). then you can start putting things up in the shop after the house is relatively in order.

Scott

[Travis Porter]

Depending on your timing, you may want to coat your cast iron tools with something to prevent rust from moisture, sweat, etc.

[JimmyC]

Originally Posted by Travis Porter

Depending on your timing, you may want to coat your cast iron tools with something to prevent rust from moisture, sweat, etc.

This is good advice, I had professional movers do most of my last move, including machinery, there was a light drizzle on the day of loading and two days later there was alot of rust.

[Gofor]

Having only moved from here to LA, LA to Okinawa, Okinawa to CA, CA to FL, and FL to here, and having moved SIL and nieces only three times since I got here, I do not have as much experience as some of you, but I can think of a couple tips:

1. Buy a couple boxes of cheap sandwich bags. Go through all your fastener organizer drawers, and dump each compartment into a separate bag (if the bin is labeled, throw label in the bag). If bag will fit back in tray, stick it there, but if not, just pack them in coffee cans, buckets, etc. This also works for the small catchall drwers in you tool box.

2. If moving tool box with tools inside, get some cheap foam to lay over the tools so that they are tight in the drawer when closed. Otherwise the tools WILL find a way out of the drawer down into the most inaccessible places in the box.

3. Blankets, pillows, bed linens and towels are great for packing around/inside fragile items like lamps, lamp shades. Old blankets make great furniture protectors to prevent tie-downs from chafing the finish.

4. Pour some fresh coffee grounds into a filter and tape it, or into a cloth bag, and place inside refrigerators and freezers after they have been thawed and emptied. (Clean socks will work in a pinch). It will keep odors from building up as they sit idle and closed.

5. Remove light bulbs from lamps, curios, etc..

6. Remove batteries from anything that may set a while after or during the move. Take cds or dvds out of the player.

7. Label both ends of all the connector cables to your stereo/home entertainment system as you remove them for easier reconnection after relocating. Masking tape and an ink pen or sharpie work well for this.

8. As for furniture, there are two methods. I personally prefer method one for short moves, as it makes items like dressers and chests of drawers much lighter and easier to grab on to.:

Method one: Drawers can be removed and reinstalled when loading and unloading. Fill the drawers with light items like clothing and linens, carry to vehicle individually and reinstall in furniture. Throw cover over furniture and strap or wrap lightly. Remove cover at destination and again carry drawers in separately.

Method two: Furniture shrink-wrapped to keep drawers secure. Empty all drawers.

9. Remove all shelves from adjustable-shelf furniture. Remove glass shelves from any furniture.

10. Large mirrors or glass panels should be stood vertical (on end or side) while moving. A good method is to load them into the vehicle where they will be sandwiched between two mattresses.

11. Do not pack books or magazines into anything larger than a 1 cube box.

12 In truck or trailer, heavy items go in first all the way to the front and tight against the front rail/bulkhead.

Last but not least: Make sure the spare tire, jack and lug-nut wrench are accessible after the vehicle is loaded. That means removing them from under the folded-down seat or floor compartment before you cover it with a ton of stuff.

Hope this helps someone.

Go

PS I forgot: Also tape all the fasteners for take-apart items to the item, or throw them all into one container labeled for what they are for and hope you don't lose that container!!.

[Bas]

Organize a "tool moving sale" for your fellow North Carolina Woodworker'ers. That will bring people in droves. Now you have all the help you need to load the heavy iron.

[novice99]

Having had to move the shop across country recently, I would recommend disassembling any/all protruding items: tablesaw wings/fence rails, tool stands, knobs on jointer/planer/tablesaw etc. Although it is more work taking things apart and putting back together, the ease of moving a "small " tablesaw or planer and not having to replace knobs broken by sitting against the dolly more than makes up for it.

I would echo lots of small, labeled boxes for hand tools and hardware.

Never transport that nice cabinet with boxes or drawers for the different size hardware like it is, empty the bins into baggies then put the baggies into the bin--- TRUST ME on this one!

Moving day is stressful enough, so little things done to avoid breaking things or people end up being really helpful.

Good Luck to you and your family!!!

[medic]

one thing that I did on moving my shop is to try to clean up all my big things before moving them, that way I did not have a big mess to clean up at the other end . get plenty of help and organize as may tools togather as possible, use sturdy containers and don't stuff 50 pounds into a 25 pound bag unless you want to repack it again. (did that) and dont rush it