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03-21-2008, 01:31 PM
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#1 |
Name: Dave Snider City: Advance State: NC County: Davie Join Date: Oct 2007 Age: 64 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 0.23 over 180 days | Jim,
I was attempting to do some ductwork hook-up, and noticed that all the 6" thin-wall fittings I bought do not fit. They are probably 1/16" too small to fit over the 6" pipe.
I was going to split some 6" piping to fit inside the duct, and glue it in place. Then the fitting should slide right over it. RIGHT!!!!
Any more ideas are welcomed.
__________________
Dave in NC
"A man's gotta know his limitations"!
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03-21-2008, 05:49 PM
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#2 | | Vice-President Libraries Administrator
Name: Rob City: Hendersonville State: NC County: Henderson Join Date: Nov 2005 Age: 66 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 6.81 over 180 days | Dave,
The fittings that I've purchased from Lowe's are marked in the PVC with either (or both) D-2729 and D-3034. The socket in these fititngs should be at least 6-1/4" (but not more than 6-5/16"). Both the white bell-end D2729 and light green D-3034 6" PVC are very close to exactly 6" inside diameter and have walls that are 0.10" and 0.125", respectively, which maxes at 6-1/4" outside diameter. Both types should fit (the bell ends should measure about the same as the socket of the fittings). If you somehow have fittings that are thicker, they may be Schedule 40 and won't fit.
If you have the correct fittings and the pipe still doesn't fit, then you can try slitting the pipe about 4" back with a saber saw, making about 3 cuts. If you can make two-three disks of 3/4" plywood exactly 6" in diameter (or even just a little smaller), use them as an inside form in the end of the pipe and pull the pipe tight to them with a 6" hose clamp. Then use a small amount of PVC cement to glue the saw kerfs. You may need to sand off any excess cement. You may need to experiment a little with the width of the saw kerfs, but this will reduce the pipe diameter the amount you'll need.
DO NOT GLUE YOUR DUCT JOINTS! Why? Because you will inevitably want to change something and it is not necessary. If you want to "hold them in place", use a small amount of clear silicone caulk on the outside of the joint after it is assembled.
Hope this helps
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Rob  Truths: There is no such thing as a 25 hour day, so why do I keep trying to cram so much into every day so it seems that way! |
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03-22-2008, 12:10 AM
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#3 |
Name: Alan Schaffter City: Washington State: NC County: Beaufort Join Date: Dec 2005 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 6.73 over 180 days | What Rob said.
If your pipe is S&D (either ASTM 2729 or the slightly thicker walled 3034) but fittings are too small, then you somehow ended up with sched 40 fittings. You either grabbed the wrong ones at Lowes, or some jerk put them in the wrong bin.
Also, what Rob said about gluing. I sealed the fittings on my last DC piping with a little silicone after the pieces were together. When I needed to take it all apart, I just rubbed the silicone off with my fingers. I have always recommended either no sealer or a little silicone after the fact. When I installed my current setup (the last DC setup I will ever have?) I didn't follow my own advice and just used some latex caulk I had laying around. Now I am reconfiguring some of the piping to install my autogates- what a pain to pull everything apart!     |
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03-22-2008, 01:00 AM
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#4 |
Name: Dave Snider City: Advance State: NC County: Davie Join Date: Oct 2007 Age: 64 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 0.23 over 180 days | What I was thinking of doing was to just glue the one end in place to hold it securely, while I was installing the mating end. But what you guys say, as usual makes sense.
Thanks,
__________________
Dave in NC
"A man's gotta know his limitations"!
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