Getting A New Shop!!

[Ken Massingale]

And I'm like a lil kid waiting on Christmas.

24 by 36 on a pad, hopefully to be started in a couple of weeks.

Now for the reason for the post;

I will certainly have a small wood heater, I'll be asking the builder who is doing the framing this question but I would appreciate input from others who have done wood heater installation.

I'm looking for the safest and most economical way to flue the heater. I use stainless pipe for my fireplace in the house and haven't had any issues, but that was installed several decades ago.
We also have a wood heater in the house flued to a masonry chimney so I am familiar with stovepipe to the flue.
I'm looking for the right solution from the ceiling thru the roof.

Oh, I plan on installing the heater on one of the 36' walls, probably near the center of the length. This will put the chimney cap~ 12' from the roof peak. At this distance will the chimney top need to be high as the roof peak?

Thanks for any advice.

ken

[Trent Mason]

Congrats on the new shop Ken! Not sure about the wood heater advice but I'm sure someone will chime in shortly.

[4yanks]

Ken, why not consider a heat pump? In addition to making it more bearable in the summer it will also help to regulate humidity in the shop.

[PChristy]

Originally Posted by Trent Mason

Congrats on the new shop Ken! Not sure about the wood heater advice but I'm sure someone will chime in shortly.

Same here Ken - LOML wanted gas logs in the house so I don't know anything about it- congrats again on the new shop don't forget pictures

[TracyP]

24x36 . I would get lost in that size shop. As the others have said, I can't offer much help on the wood stove but wanted to offer congrats on the shop.

[NCPete]

or radiant heat in the floor, with AC for the summer and humidity?

[JimmyC]

Congratulations on the new shop Ken. Don't forget to insulate before moving anything in DAMHIKT, you'l be using a whole lot less heat and a/c.

Jimmy

[Bigdog72]

It really depends on the stove. My choice would be to find one that you can use 6 or 8" B vent (double walled pipe). Cheapest and easiest. Second choice would be one that direct vents out the side of the building. More expensive. Most codes require that the top of the chimney be 2' above the closet roof within 10' but I would check with your local code office.

[Travis Porter]

Congrats and good luck. When we built our prior home, I specified wanting a flue for a wood stove and ended up not being able to get it. Some bandsaw from the builder saying he couldn't get it approved or something. I did do a bit of research back then, and I believe IIRC that you will be needing triple walled pipe for it. Additionally, I think it has to be up a good ways past the top of the ridge of the roof line. The piping will put you in total sticker shock. I would say you need a 6" pipe, but that will depend on your stove.

I would ensure it is included in the prints and the builder has the specs for it before building begins so it doesn't get left out like it did for me way back when.

[JackLeg]

Ken: I would definitely give some serious thought to the layout of the TOOLS before locating the heater. After all, the tools are the reason for the shop, right?

Do it on grid paper and then see where the stove will fit best. You might find a corner works better, especially if you mount a fan above the stove to move some air.

M2CW

[Bernhard]

Ken,
Congrats on the new shop!

Take a look at radiant floor heating. For the time being all you have to do is placing the pipe in the floor. For a a 24x36 shop it would only take a couple of hundred feet of pex tube. That stuff is pretty inexpensive. The hookup etc. you can do later on at your leasure. The set up is fairly easy to do.

I have radiant heat in my house, but didn't do it in my shop and I regret it ever since. I have a wood stove with heat pump backup, but radiant would have been so much more comfortable and cheaper.

Cheers,
Bernhard

[LeftyTom]

Ken, I wanna give a pre-shop slap on the back.

[scsmith42]

Ken, congrats on your new shop!

I'm with Bernhard and the others re recommending radiant heat. Wood is nice from an aesthetic point of view, but having been through one fire my perspective has changed a bit...

Open flames in the shop can be a drawback when you're working with flammable finishes, paint, etc. I had a propane furnace in my old shop, but my new buildings will have radiant heat in the floor.

One nice thing about the radiant is that you can operate it off of a water heater, which can do double duty in providing you with hot water for the shop as well. Radiant will provide a more consistant heat than a wood stove (although it takes longer for the initial warming), safer, you can keep the shop heated all night long in the winter once you've applied some glues/finishes that need to cure, etc.

You can't beat the aesthetics of a wood stove though...

Regards,

Scott

[Sanders Woodworking]

One thing going unsaid is that we generate the fuel in the shop every day. I have 10 totes full of cutoffs, scrap, etc. I even burn the shavings from my dust collector in the winter. Every time I stoke the fire, I throw in a bucket of sawdust. You do have to be careful!!! Airborne wood dust is very flammable/explosive. Use common sense. Don't fluidize sanding dust with the air hose when the stove is going.

When it's very cold, I use a reddyheater to take the edge off then fire up the woodstove. I have been doing it for over 30 years. I like the almost instant heat, I love the smell and I don't mind stoking it. That said, a wood boiler or better yet, a heat pump would be great, just expensive. I'd rather save the money for tools. I have put in AC though, makes me work better and I'm willing to pay for the comfort.

[sawduster]

24 x 36
I've lived in buildings smaller than that !

That's awesome , I know you are excited