Finish Room - size?

Finish Room - size? · 10-23-2009, 10:21 AM

I am working on the layout of the shop I am building, and a finish room was suggested. Need suggestions on sizing. I know bigger is usually better, but there are probably some guidelines on a reasonable, comfortable workspace. (The shop will be big (40x70), so I have room to build the "right" size.)

Not planning to use any unusual finishes, and hope to build stuff like furniture and cabinets - as well as turning bowls, hollow forms, etc.

With no experience with a finish room to draw from, I am wondering about things like:

Dimensions?
Should I keep the finish materials cabinet in the finish room?
Is special venting needed? (Can the DC be incorporated?)
Should the interior walls be a particular material?
Any special jigs/fixtures helpful other than a sturdy table?

Travis Porter · 10-23-2009, 09:00 PM

That is a BIG shop!!!

This is JMTCW, but I would want a 12x12 room.

I would want it on an outside wall so I could incorporate external venting if desired at some point. Personally, I would use sheet rock, and minimize electrical outlets and switches in the room. Explosion proof lights are expensive, but if you can mount flourescents or fixtures above and have them blocked by plexiglass or glass that would be good. Personally, I would want double doors, not a single.

Although this wouldn't meet OSHA requirements, it would be a good set up to allow you to spray VOC stuff without worrying too much about it.

I would want a roll around table in it with a lazy susan set up that allows you to "spin" a project. Some kind of collapsible/fold up table for larger projects would be nice. For big projects, I would want something like furniture dolly's (those square things) to set projects on to be able to spin them. There are lots of different kinds of jigs, but I wouldn't do much more than moveable tables until I got a feel for what I wanted/needed.

You are definitely going to want some flexible light source like a handheld or floor light so you can get the light at angles to see runs and drips. Unfortunately, and DAMHIKT, the older you get, the more light you need, so put or plan on the most and brightest light you can stand.....

I don't see why you can't store the finishes in the room. My advice is to store the finishes in some place that is climate controlled (doesn't freeze). That way, you don't ruin any finish.

If at all possible, have a sink nearby. I don't have a separate finishing room, but I do have a sink set up adjacent to where I do my finishing, and it is a wonderful thing. A laundry tub is nice, but I would want it mounted in a counter top to have additional space to mix and handle stuff.

Not sure what you are talking about can the DC be incorporated, but in general, no you can't use the dust collector to handle venting in a finishing room.

There is also some stuff that you can spray on/brush on to walls so as you spray (if you decide to spray and by all means I would recommend it) that as the over spray gets on stuff, you can peel it all off. I am not sure of what it is called, but it is supposed to be GOOD STUFF.

Good luck and POST SOME PICTURES!!!! WE LOVE PICTURES!!!!

FredP · 10-23-2009, 09:16 PM

what travis said!

the stuff for the walls is called FRP [fire rated plastic] it works great for clean rooms. I've used it in kitchens and public restrooms. It aint cheep!

scsmith42 · 10-24-2009, 01:00 AM

Ditto what Travis said.

I would incorporate external venting from the start. It can be as simple as an explosion proof fan with some furnace filters in front of it. You will want to run an air supply to the room (along with a pressure regulator inside the room), have an incoming air vent (also filtered), and some means of controlling the humidity in the event that your entire shop is not humidity controlled.

I would suggest taller ceiling in there (such as 9' or 10'), in case you need to finish some 8' tall cabinets. You will want to keep the room as dust proof as possible (no dust collection system inside it!), and also want to be able to either blow it out or hose it out. Some type of waterproof material on the walls and ceiling, along with a floor drain, would be conducive to hosing out (which really gets rid of all dust - automotive spray booths are designed this way).

In addition to a sink, some type of solvent bin for rinsing out oil-based spray guns would be nice. Be sure to have some safety cans inside for storing solvent or oil soaked rags.

reprosser · 10-24-2009, 01:31 AM

Wow! I had no idea it was so involved...I am such a newbie

Explosion proof fan?

Where do ya get those?

I will have a window on the exterior wall, so I should be able to incorporate some venting without using the DC. This is a "pole building" shop, so the exterior is metal and floor is concrete. Ceiling is 14 ft.

I like the idea of a drain, but will have to get it stubbed in before the concrete pour. Would the drain go to the septic tank, or would I need some other collection method?

I planned to have a utility sink outside the bathroom wall, but I could

move it into the finish room.

Man, I know all about needing more light to see...getting old really bites. I am picking up some high output 6 bulb T5 fixtures to use in the shop.

Double doors makes a lot of sense. Glad you mentioned it.

I can only provide a photo of the job site at this time. Should be able to start the building in a couple of weeks.

scsmith42 · 10-24-2009, 01:56 AM

Originally Posted by reprosser

Wow! I had no idea it was so involved...I am such a newbie

Explosion proof fan? Where do ya get those?

W.W. GRAINGERS HAS THEM IN STOCK. THIS IS A MORE EXPENSIVE OPTION: http://www.grizzly.com/products/2-HP...ay-Booth/G0532

I will have a window on the exterior wall, so I should be able to incorporate some venting without using the DC. This is a "pole building" shop, so the exterior is metal and floor is concrete. Ceiling is 14 ft.

I like the idea of a drain, but will have to get it stubbed in before the concrete pour. Would the drain go to the septic tank, or would I need some other collection method? IF IT WERE ME, I WOULD RUN SHOP SINKS AND FLOOR DRAINS TO A SIMPLE "GREY WATER" SYSTEM. BE SURE TO INSTALL P TRAPS IN THE FLOOR DRAINS.

I planned to have a utility sink outside the bathroom wall, but I could move it into the finish room. TWO WOULD BE NICE - ONE INSIDE THE ROOM AND ANOTHER OUTSIDE. THE REASON WHY IS THAT THE SINK USED FOR THE BULK OF THE FINISH WORK WILL PROBABLY BECOME SOMEWHAT UNATTRACTIVE OVER TIME. IF YOU INSTALL TWO, YOU CAN KEEP THE OTHER SINK IN NICER CONDITION.

Man, I know all about needing more light to see...getting old really bites. I am picking up some high output 6 bulb T5 fixtures to use in the shop. THOSE OUGHT TO BE NICE!

Double doors makes a lot of sense. Glad you mentioned it.

I can only provide a photo of the job site at this time. Should be able to start the building in a couple of weeks. LOOKING GOOD!!!

Comments above in CAPS for ease of reading.

steviegwood · 10-24-2009, 09:44 AM

I would add to the above just one thing. When I am finishing small projects it is nice to have a way to hang them in the middle of the room so as to get all the way around the project. This sometimes is more handy than a lazy susan. I am a scroller and do a lot of smaller projects. Steve