Designing a new workshop...Input requested

[yellofins]

Thanks again for all of the ideas and direction.
Now I get to draw up the plans and submit for approval.
I think this will go to my builders' architect to design the trusses.

I wish I could get away from having a roll up garage door on the building but....
the only way I can get a building that large is to make it a detached garage and per HOA must have a matching roll up door..
Outbuildings for other purposes are limited to 144 square feet.
12x12 wouldn't gain me anything.
I have plenty of lighting options but will have to limit the number of windows. This will also help me keep the building secure..
Skylights may be an option.

The shop will be a dedicated workshop . No storage for anything other than wood . Lawnmowers and such live under the screened porch already and yard tools have a place in the garage.

I will be running 20A 110V, 20A 220V and 30A 220V circuits.
I currently have (in the garage) 2 110V and 1 220V outlet every 6 feet and find this works very well.
The circuits will be surface mounted with conduit to allow easy changes and additions. It's not as pretty as in wall, but access and updates are much easier this way (and inspectors like it too!).

Air filtration is the only area I haven't figured out yet.

Heating and cooling will be heatpump. Water only in the garage.
There's no way to get septic out there without spending too much money.

Thanks for all the input. i have changed a few wants to needs and also deleted a few wants.

Final list and drawing will be coming soon.

Thanks again,
Ron

[Cuprousworks]

Originally Posted by shuneverno1

On the floor,consider cheap laminate with foam underlayment. I was able to put this in my shop for around $400 bucks (cheaper than lanolium) and it really makes it feel more like a family room than a workshop, things roll really smooth as well.

Mike: did you apply this to slab on grade? I haven't seen any where this is recommended, but it would make a great solution and be a lot easier to stand on than a poured slab. But I'd hate to put a lot of work/money into it and then have it buckle.

Mike

[Jim Murphy]

Trusses: put in the maximum pitch that wouldn't look strange. That is, instead of 5/12, go for something like 9/12. Pay the extra to have the lower chords 2x6 instead of 2x4. It will support anything you can possibly put up there. Also, ask your truss designer about "attic space" truss designs, to increase the usable area in the ceiling.
In re: receptacle heights. Mine are at 4' and I have no problem with it. I'm not sure higher would be better, but I'm not going to argue about it. My receptacles are at every other stud, that is, 32" apart. Be sure to GFCI any that may one day use an extension cord outside.

[froglips]

Hindsight.......

I'd urge you to run a second conduit of maybe 1" or larger for future "wire things".

I did a 75' trench and ignored advice on running a second conduit for other things (phone, cable, etc).

I regreted that decision about 2 weeks after the trench was filled in.

Jim

[JimmyC]

Originally Posted by froglips

Hindsight.......

I'd urge you to run a second conduit of maybe 1" or larger for future "wire things".

I did a 75' trench and ignored advice on running a second conduit for other things (phone, cable, etc).

I regreted that decision about 2 weeks after the trench was filled in.

Jim

Jim,

I have to agree with you on the extra conduit, In my last shop ,with a 75' run, I ran two 4" pvc sch 40 conduits, it may seem like overkill but it sure was nice when I had to pull extra lines. And the hard part was digging the trench anyway.

Jimmy

[thrytis]

Originally Posted by yellofins

I wish I could get away from having a roll up garage door on the building but....
the only way I can get a building that large is to make it a detached garage and per HOA must have a matching roll up door..

Does it have to be a matching roll up door, or does it just have to look the same? If you built a door yourself, you could probably make a double door that swung out on hinges that looked like a roll up door except for a doorknob in the center (that you could probably paint the same color as the door to conceal it).

[toolferone]

Originally Posted by thrytis

Does it have to be a matching roll up door, or does it just have to look the same? If you built a door yourself, you could probably make a double door that swung out on hinges that looked like a roll up door except for a doorknob in the center (that you could probably paint the same color as the door to conceal it).

I like that idea, but if that does not work consider having the roll up door go up as high as possible before turning in to the shop. That way you will have less door in the shop, or instead of coming out 90 deg. horizontally it could angle up toward the ceiling.

[Bryan S]

One thing my dad did when he built his shop was to put in skylights they really brought in the extra light. I wish i had them on my shop.

[Travis Porter]

What I learned from building a detached workshop:

Sidewalks should be a minimum of 1" below slab level of the shop.
If your roof is above 6/12 pitch install gutters
Run an extra 1" conduit from house to building to handle low voltage wiring needs (telephone, cable, intercom, network, etc)
Run piping for hot and cold water even if you don't initially plan to use it
Put windows (if any to be installed) above 36" so you can put cabinets or benches on that wall if necessary
Install outlets at 4 ft and every 4 ft
Install multiple outlets in the ceiling for rewind cords, etc
Seriously consider putting dust collection and electrical in the floor
100 amp minimum service panel. I wish I had bought a bigger panel (not amperage wise but size wise) as mine is now full and it is difficult to do anymore 220V tools
Don't buy cheap paint when painting the interior. I bought 5 gallon buckets for $30 and ended up having to put on 8 coats to get good coverage. Buy good paint and paint it white.
Don't let me do your sheetrock work. I am horrible at it.

Have you decided who you are going to get to build it?

[novice99]

Having bought a house from a serious woodworker with a serious shop, I will share my experience with his (now my) set-up.

1 or 2 boxes with both 220 and 110V in the middle of the floor make running the tablesaw, Jointer, and Planer a cinch without worrying about tripping over cords.
I would definitely put in your DC and piping ahead of time with blast gates at 4-5ft and drop down hoses in the middle of the shop.
If you don't have a wet-dry vac, make one of your blast gates hook to a vacuum hose (but just use it for wood dust, not nails/screws/dirt/etc).
I can't echo enough the benefits of lighting. Lots of overhead fluorescents plus high South wall windows make it bright day and night.

good luck and here's an early congrats and you suck!

[yellofins]

I'm glad I haven't set a budget yet.....
Adding the extra conduits from the house is a great idea.
I will run water and the on demand hot water heater has been added to the list.
I have to go with the same type of garage door as on the existing structure.
I will make it 1 panel taller. I have seen a nice idea where it disappears above the workshop ceiling making it possible to have lights under the door when it's open.
The roof will be 12/12 pitch and I planned on 9-10" ceiling so the roof height matches the house.
My builder is going to let me use his subs, so I guess I'm subbing all of the work out with his guidance.
I'm not sure if the DC will go in the slab. It may have to be overhead.
I will run a conduit down the middle of the shop floor with a few boxes.
I have a week away to finalize my specs and then it goes to his architect.

Thanks again for all of the great ideas and support.
Ron

[michaelgarner]

One thing I was thinking of last night before I dozed off was putting up ply instead of Sheetrock. That way when you secure anything to the walls you dint have to find any studs. It may not be feasible with the budget, but if you know where your main hanging cabinets will be just do that wall. When I grow up and have a dedicated shop I plan on doing something similar.

[Bas]

Yup, not having to search for studs would be nice. OSB would also work, and is probably a little cheaper. The only downside is that plywood and OSB are not flame retardant. For a basement or garage workshop, drywall is probably safer. For a detached workshop, it's not as big an issue.

Bas.

[rherrell]

If you plan on having heating and A/C don't put in roll up garage doors. I have 2 of them in my shop and I'm taking them out. Impossible to insulate around the top.

[Travis Porter]

Ahhh, a 12-12 pitch roof. Definitely put your sidewalk (if you have one) 1 inch or more below the slab level of your building. Definitely have to have gutters. If you don't, the water bouncing on the ground will cause havoc.

Couple of other tid bits since I have thought about this some more.

Run a 1" or larger conduit up from your new fuse panel in the shop to the attic area for when you will have to run a new wire.

Put a few outlets in the ceiling and get you some of those retractable cord reels. I love them and it is nice to not have cords running all over the floor for portable power tools.

For general use electrical sockets, I put in all 20 amp circuits. Have had zero issues with power.

If you are putting in a garage door, I believe every outlet will have to be GFCI. Not sure, but I do think that is code, hence why I just put french doors up. When I open both I have about a 6 ft opening and it has worked pretty well to get stuff in and out.

Consider putting in a small fridge under or next to your sink area cabinets. I don't keep beer in mine (I am accident prone already), but it is nice to have sodas and water cold and ready.

I put up sheetrock in my shop, but I did mount three sheets of 3/4x4x8 BC plywood down one side slightly above 36" before I painted and painted it with the walls. Makes it easy to have a "tool board" for hanging all of the miscellaneous tools.

Put in a couple of dedicated 20 amp 110V circuits on the walls. That way, if you get a new toyl that needs 220V, it is easy enough to switch it over.

If at all possible, put your compressor and dust collection in a lean-to type enclosure outside with a baffle type arrangement to allow air circulation back into the building. They both take up a lot of space and they are both loud as you well know.

As for lights, the ones I bought (cheapos) have the cords wired already in them so I put outlets in the ceiling for all the lights. The ones I have buzz some, but I think it is more of the bulbs than the fixtures. I went out and bought a bunch of "quality" bulbs with good CRI, and all that other stuff, and they have not lasted worth a flip. I have replaced almost all of them in 6 months, so I will probably stick with the cheapo bulbs from the BORG going forward. I have my fixtures hanging on chains (1 ft down) since I have 10 ft ceilings. I bump them occassionally, but it has worked out pretty good.

On my building, I had the contractor put in 2 4" pipes stubbed into the concrete. That is how I fed my water and drain pipes into the building. For electrical, I just came up the outside wall as the pipes came up the same wall where I was going to put my fuse panel.