Air Compressor hookup

Air Compressor hookup · 02-13-2008, 01:01 PM

I have one of those PC pancake compressors that from a capacity standpoint is perfect for my needs. But my problem is that I have it stored in a little cubby behind my lathe and sharpening station. The power switch, the pressure regulator and the power socket are all back there. So when I want to use the compressor, I have to move the lathe and/or sharpening station, crawl back there, turn on the compressor, set the pressure regulator, and drag out the 30' hose. For a varietyof reasons, I don't want the compressor powered on overnight or when I'm not in the house.

So here what I thought I'd do. There is nice piece of wall space above the cubby that is easy for me to get to. I thought I'd move all the controls and the hose to that wall. First I'd leave the power switch in the "on" position and put a switch on the wall that switched the socket that the compressor is plugged into.

I would remove the pressure regulator from the main body of the compressor, put about a 9' foot flexiable hose from the connection that had the pressure regulator to the same regulator now mounted on the wall. Then from the output side of the regulator to a hose reel.

So does this work and is it safe? What else should I look out for?

RandyJ · 02-13-2008, 01:15 PM

If the space is large enough, why not just build a shelf for the AC?
That way it would be off the floor and out of the way completely...
Just a thought

Alan in Little Washington · 02-13-2008, 01:24 PM

Steve- is the regulator mounted on the output of the compressor, or integrated in a housing with the gauge and pressure switch? If it is integrated, rather than disassemble part of the compressor, I would just set the compressor regulator to the max and use a second regulator on the wall for regulated pressure. You can just use a length of hose and NPT/barb fittings with hose clamps for the run to the wall station. I used some red rubber stuff rated at 200 psi working pressure and barb fittings I got at Lowes to connect my 175 psi compressor to my hard air plumbing- works just fine.

As far as the wall switch, remember when you turn it back on the next day pressure may have bled down enough for the compressor motor to start immediately so get a 20A switch with heavy duty contacts. That should handle the start-up current on a pancake- might check the motor specs anyway.

One other thing to think about is the condensate drain. You can remote that the same way also. FYI, I've seen guys mount the whole compressor on a little shelf up high on the wall and out of the way.

Steve W · 02-13-2008, 01:30 PM

You will still need to bring pressure down and drain the tank periodically through the built-in draincock in the bottom.

The second regulator idea is a good one and I've seen it done in the past.

McRabbet · 02-13-2008, 09:29 PM

Steve, mount one of these bad boys up on the wall with a pressure reducer midway (if you really think you need it), I bought one for my shop 2 years ago for $39.99 on sale and I can use an air tool anywhere within 25 ft. Recommended!

TBone · 02-13-2008, 09:53 PM

If you decide to use the hose reel, check Homier if the hold a sale nearby. I got the exact same real for $29 there. It's perfect and I'd love to catch another one for that price.

SteveColes · 02-14-2008, 11:26 AM

First, thanks for all the good advice. The idea about mounting on the wall would be a winner. Except, there is always an except

, if you look at the way the wall is shaped, the only place there is enough width available is to mount so high, that the advantages are gone. I woould have to get a step stool to power on and to adjust pressure.

Alan, you raised 2 points. If you look, you can see that the pressure valve can easily be removed and replaced by a hose leading to that or another regulator mounted on the wall, I think

Oh, and the circuit it is plugged into is a 20 amp.

Oh, and I already have the HF hose reel

Bas · 02-14-2008, 01:25 PM

Originally Posted by SteveColes

I would have to get a step stool to power on and to adjust pressure.

You could always mount the compressor on a platform, and winch it up and down like your crosscut sled

I don't think there is anything wrong with moving the controls to the wall. Wiring the switch might be difficult (unless you run the wire on the surface), if you're willing to spend the $50 you could use one of those dust collector remotes. If the amperage isn't too great, Ace hardware has one for $25. It will handle 14A, but not forever (DAMHIKT).

On draining the compressor - you could put the compressor on a simple box 2ft high (assuming this fits), then run a solid pipe at a downward angle to the wall where the controls will be. Then add a T-connection and drain.
If you're going that route, you could consider running a solid pipe up the wall as well to put the pressure valve. Might be easier than trying to straighten out a hose. I wouldn't want anything loose or loopy (other than myself) near a spinning lathe. Could be difficult to work around that cabinet though.

Other options all preclude hot water

Alan in Little Washington · 02-14-2008, 05:46 PM

I would go ahead and put the whole thing on a platform up out of the way. Mount it as high as you can either off the wall using "L" brackets or from the ceiling with a plywood platform and four pieces of chain. Another option is to move the compressor outside into a little shed- not much different than an unheated garage if your garage is unheated. Leave the compressor switch in the "on" position. Use an extension cord if the compressor's power cord is not long enough and plug it into a switched outlet- you can easily replace the nearest duplex outlet with a switch/receptacle combo and plug the compressor in and control it from there. Remove the regulator and run soft hose to a convenient spot on where you can mount the regulator. You can also remove the condensate drain valve, install a hose fitting, and move the condensate drain to a convenient location (or you can buy an auto drain valve).