Need some Wood advice on about 40 logs

Need some Wood advice on about 40 logs · 10-08-2008, 02:26 PM

As I mentioned long ago, before we sold the land I decided to get some trees cut down to stock me up for a long time. Well after much delay and some fighting with a guy to get everything moved over... the sawyer I had found before I ever came on here is ready to get started on cutting them up. I ended up with about 40 logs. The species are all over but all logs are 18" plus with a red oak and white oak maxing out well over 200 years and at nearly 48" diameter. I also have a pear that was over 100 and some persimmon that made 3 16' logs at all over 18"... Some Cherry, Ash, Cedar, Maple (soft), large Beech, Poplar, Walnut, a Honey Locust... Some other odds and ends but a lot and I mean a lot of Oak... I am in way over my head...

The sawyer estimates just on a rough guess of an average log in there over them all at over 12,500BF of lumber...

So I need help on a few things...

All of this is in Statesville, NC and I think I finally have somewhere to dry store it while it dries...

How would you guys get it cut up? I am thinking a good amount and most of it as 4/4 to 5/4... some 8/4 and maybe some 12/4 slabs out of the nicer large species. Also going to cut a good amount of turning blanks out of each for legs, feet and other various fun down the road. How much of each and what percentage would you guys do? I have always just bought what was needed or was around but I am still so new to this I am lost

And since I don't have a permanent home for this amount, it is very likely that I will be offering up a good amount for sale as it becomes available and even some fresh off if you want to dry it yourself for cheaper...

Any help will be appreciated. I still haven't even run power to my MM16 yet

I have been so lazy lately with work and all LOL.

Marlin · 10-08-2008, 03:48 PM

Well just remember that the thicker it is the longer to dry and chance of movement.

Also might want to QS some as well. It lowers your numbers but come up with better wood IMO.

titan04 · 10-08-2008, 04:07 PM

Yes, I know the larger the longer... but I think I would be upset with myself if I didn't get a few larger pieces out of the wood off the farm for the just in case I want to do something really special. Most I think I would get 4/4 and/or 5/4 so I could get a full 1" after planing.

Correct me if I am wrong on this... don't you get some QS when you flat saw it all? Not as much of course but a few pieces per log. Are there some species that are much nicer looking when QS or is that pretty much dependent on the tree and the beholder? I find myself being a large fan of larger wavier grains then very tight nit patterns... think quilted mahagony.

Mike Davis · 10-08-2008, 04:10 PM

I would quarter saw all of the white oak in 4/4.

Mix of 4/4, 8/4 and 16/4 red oak, cut plain.

Anything else I would cut 5/4 and 8/4 to be resawn later with the most figured parts saved for bowl blanks.

But, I am probably the odd man out, so you better listen to Scott, Jeff and Kyle.

Marlin · 10-08-2008, 04:52 PM

Yea I was thinking the white oak should be QS'ed myself when he said oak.

But you might end up with a little QS at the middle but that is if you get a good cut right in the middle. So you might have to cut that first to make sure you get all straight out of it then cut the rest as you feel.

But white oak should be QS IMO and not sure about the looks of the rest but to me WO flat just can;t hold a candle to QS WO.

Outa Square · 10-08-2008, 06:20 PM

I am not far from statesville... i would be interested in some... everything sounds great. 4/4, maybe 5/4 is all i would want green as it takes so long to air dry other wise. I am the most interested in walnut, persimmon, and beech, but will take some oak and poplar if the the price is fair. Let me know. I am excited wood offered on this end of the state.

TracyP · 10-08-2008, 09:00 PM

I would also be interested in some of a variety of it.

10-08-2008, 09:41 PM

My advise only and as always subject to intense scrutiny

* I hope you end sealed the logs as soon as they were bucked - if not expect a high percentage of end checking defect during drying.

* Logs under 12" diameter on the small end measured inside the bark (DIB) - turn into firewood, they ain't worth sawing.

* Logs 12" ~ 20" DIB Flat saw if they are a good grade (straight 2 or more clear quarters) Remember if you see a "bump on the log" chances are high there is a knot under that bump it's not to be considered a clear face.

* Logs over 20" DIB Quarter Saw - If they are high grade (Butt logs).

* Woods like Cherry, Walnut, Maple, Cedar and Poplar - do pretty good air drying because they have a high safe moisture content lose per day.

* Woods like Oak, Beech, Sycamore and Persimmon - do best being kiln drying, because the have a low safe percentage of moisture content lose per day.

* The thicker the lumber the slower it needs to dry.

BTW unlike most folks - I am NOT interested in any.

Thanks

titan04 · 10-08-2008, 10:39 PM

Thanks for the advice the sawyer cut it all down and I wasn't able to be around for much of it but he was supposed to end seal all the logs for me so I am assuming he did.

All of the logs are 20" plus except maybe one walnut and one side of the pear. The oaks, beech, poplar and cherry were all 30"+

I will probably be air drying it all in an old warehouse where I will rent space since all the land was sold now and had to move all the logs over to the mill.

We picked all the logs on quality basis at least that is what we tried... we didn't even take trees that were on the side of a hill. There were hundreds of oaks that size to choose from... we pulled a select few over the couple hundred acres as the choice ones that would have the least impact gone... except for the cedar and the pear which just held a place from my childhood (I know, I know it wasn't that long ago) and I want to do something special with them as my skill improves.

I should have saved more of the limbs especially the beech and pear to offer up for turning wood to you guys... but the closing moved way too fast for my taste, but what are you going to do when everyone except you wants to sell it and the court has no power over that

10-08-2008, 10:56 PM

Originally Posted by titan04

I will probably be air drying it all in an old warehouse where I will rent space since all the land was sold now and had to move all the logs over to the mill.

Drape landscape fabric over your slower drying species - it slows drying but still allows air to move through the stack. You'll want a ample amount of air moving through the stacks - expect to use a large number of fans.

JimmyC · 10-08-2008, 11:00 PM

Josh,

I personallt like 5/4 over 4/4 generally because it cleans up well above 3/4" and closer to 1". As far as bowl blanks go, just have the pieces cut to 12/4 and 16/4 and cut the up into blanks later ( for now make them 6' in length or so.

Don't forget to cover the ends in anchorseal to allow the wood to dry properly.

scsmith42 · 10-09-2008, 12:22 AM

I would DEFINITELY quartersaw the best oak logs. If a log has a lot of knots in it, plainsawn would be worth considering.

Re drying, be sure to use dry stickers; my recommendation would be at least 1" square. Block up the bottom of the pile at least 4" above the floor, and 6" would be better (so moisture doesn't get trapped between the floor and the bottom of the stack.

The warehouse is a great idea. Fortunately we're in the best time of year to start air drying, as the humidity and temperatures are coming down, and this not only slows the rate of drying it also reduces the chance of mold occuring.

Air flow dries lumber, but too much of a good thing will damage it. If you have access to an anemometer (HVAC techs usually have one to test air flow in ducts), check the exit side of your stacks for an airflow between 200 - 300 FPM. Anything greater will probably damage the wood.

If you drape the stacks, use extra wide stickers on top so that the drape material does not come in contact with the boards.

If your sawyer can't handle the 48" wide logs, feel free to send me a PM. My mill is good for up to 60" diameter. We can also talk prices re kiln drying, should you wish.

Another good option re initial air drying is to stand the boards up against the sides of the warehouse, and turn them every few days. No fan's necessary for this type of drying, and you can stack/sticker them when they get below 35%.

Scott

10-09-2008, 12:26 AM

Originally Posted by scsmith42

I would DEFINITELY quartersaw the best oak logs. If a log has a lot of knots in it, plainsawn would be worth considering.

Re drying, be sure to use dry stickers; my recommendation would be at least 1" square. Block up the bottom of the pile at least 4" above the floor, and 6" would be better (so moisture doesn't get trapped between the floor and the bottom of the stack.

The warehouse is a great idea. Fortunately we're in the best time of year to start air drying, as the humidity and temperatures are coming down, and this not only slows the rate of drying it also reduces the chance of mold occuring.

Air flow dries lumber, but too much of a good thing will damage it. If you have access to an anemometer (HVAC techs usually have one to test air flow in ducts), check the exit side of your stacks for an airflow between 200 - 300 FPM. Anything greater will probably damage the wood.

If you drape the stacks, use extra wide stickers on top so that the drape material does not come in contact with the boards.

If your sawyer can't handle the 48" wide logs, feel free to send me a PM. My mill is good for up to 60" diameter. We can also talk prices re kiln drying, should you wish.

Another good option re initial air drying is to stand the boards up against the sides of the warehouse, and turn them every few days. No fan's necessary for this type of drying, and you can stack/sticker them when they get below 35%.

Scott

Great advise Scott but my eyes are burning and nose is acting like it wants to run just thinking sawing walnut

scsmith42 · 10-09-2008, 01:00 AM

Jeff, I thought that the 48" stuff was only oak.... if it's walnut, I might have to refer him to YOU!

CarvedTones · 10-09-2008, 09:05 AM

My perspective is a bit skewed, but I don't think there is as much use for pear boards as pear blanks for turning or carving. There is pear wood furniture, of course, but that doesn't seem to be very common. I might be interested in a little pear that is 8/4 or thicker and at the other end of the spectrum, I am interested in pear scraps for making things like tuning pegs, sound bridges and tailpieces for string instruments.