Lytus Ply

[dtomasch]

I was at W. Asheville H depot and they have a LARGE stack of what I think is Lyptus plywood(3/4). It is labled " hardwood" ply, but has flecks and tone like mahogany. At 25 bucks a sheet I think it's a good price. I bought the top sheet with the back side pretty torn up for 12 bucks just to see what it's like. Jut thought I'd let youall know.

[lwhughes149]

What is blondwood? I purchases it from Lowes in 3/4 plywood. Good looking plywood. I am using it for my kitchen cabinets and faceframe them in cherry. It is new to me.

[DaveO]

Originally Posted by lwhughes149

What is blondwood?

Not very smart wood I think that Blondwood is a catch all term like "Whitewood" that can be many different types of wood as long as it has a light color. Most likely not domestic species.
My $.02, Dave

[Canuck]

whughes149

Re: Lytus Ply

What is blondwood? I purchases it from Lowes in 3/4 plywood. Good looking plywood. I am using it for my kitchen cabinets and faceframe them in cherry. It is new to me.

Lorraine.

Found this as a definition for Blondewood ply:

"“Blondewood” exists only in the vernacular of the trade. It is not a true species, but rather a very generic name for any of a great number of so-called “sapwood” species with two things in common: they are very light (blonde) in color, and they have an innocuous grain appearance. The term can be applied to species of various origins, including South America, Africa, or the Pacific rim. Some large retailers offer “Sande” or “Sandeply” which is (or should be, since the common name is used) Brosimum utile, or B. spp. from the Utile group. Others may offer the same product under the Blondewood label, or some other species such as other members of the Utile group from South America or Africa, the Shorea, Parashorea, or Pentacme genus’ along the Pacific rim, or one of the Albizia group which grows world wide.
As for finishing recommendations, most of the wood thus labeled takes a finish well, but, as with any project, certain pre-cautions are advised. First, test the stain penetration on a scrap piece. Treat this as a finished piece, and apply all steps. If that works, you are in good shape. However, you may need to prepare the surfaces with a glue sizing or wash coat before proceeding. This step involves application of a coat of carpenter glue diluted in water (glue size) at a rate of about 80% water to 20% glue (you may need to experiment with the mixture) or about the same ratio of sealer to compatible solvent (wash coat). The glue size or wash coat should be applied directly to the bare wood and allowed to dry. The surface can then be sanded smooth before stain is applied. This process greatly reduces potential for blotching, but requires a little finesse with stain application. Also, be sure to sand between all finish coats before applying subsequent coats."

I have used it in the past to build utility cabinets for the garage and bookcase carcasses that I intended on painting. It worked ok, but found that you have to really careful when sanding in preparation for priming and painting. It has a tendency to "fuzz-up" if you use 120 - 150 grit sandpaper. 180 and 220 works much better.

Hope this helps a wee bit.

Wayne

[NZAPP1]

David
Let use know how that works out I am very interested in the out come. Thanks