Lumber thickness question

[jeff...]

Been thinking again, I know that's dangerous thing and all but...

What's your thoughts about these two lumber thicknesses, 9/4 and 5/4? The way I'm thinking about it is, those who like book matched boards could re-saw 9/4 into two 4/4 boards (3/4 finished) and those folks who like full 2" finished stock could get it out of 9/4 (rocker makers). Also those who like to work with full 1" stock would be able to get it with 5/4 or re-saw in half for two 3/4 for 1/2" dressed book matched boards.

I'm sure this isn't a new idea, but it kind of makes sense and seems that a lot of the more common dimensions are pretty much covered with just the two rough-sawn thicknesses (5/4 and 9/4).

1/2" finished (book matched) = 5/4
3/4" finished (book matched) = 9/4
1" finished = 5/4
2" finished = 9/4

Since I've had my mill I've had no one ask for 6/4 which would finish to 1 1/4", Other than a few folks who wanted to use softwood for framing material.

Thoughts please...

Thanks

[Bas]

Well, opinion from a complete amateur here, but I like 5/4. For simple things such as boxes, 1/2" (dressed) stock is perfect, 3/4" is often too thick. I hate planing down 4/4 stock to 1/2", but that's because I'm cheap. Resawing 5/4 to two 1/2" boards would work really well.

Of course, you're expecting your customers to have a bandsaw suitable for resawing. And have a project where bookmatching matters.

As a woodworker, being able to buy 5/4 stock would be terrific. As a sawyer, the potential pool of customers may be too small. For really pretty wood, it might be economically feasible.

Bas.

[jeff...]

Originally Posted by Bas

Well, opinion from a complete amateur here, but I like 5/4. For simple things such as boxes, 1/2" (dressed) stock is perfect, 3/4" is often too thick. I hate planing down 4/4 stock to 1/2", but that's because I'm cheap. Resawing 5/4 to two 1/2" boards would work really well.

Of course, you're expecting your customers to have a bandsaw suitable for resawing. And have a project where bookmatching matters.

As a woodworker, being able to buy 5/4 stock would be terrific. As a sawyer, the potential pool of customers may be too small. For really pretty wood, it might be economically feasible.

Bas.

Thanks Bas. What is the re-saw capacity of most band saws?

Thanks

[JohnsonMBrandon]

If they don't have a riser block on a average bandsaw resaw would be limited to just over 6" in most cases.

[JimmyC]

I personally like to have some 5/4 stock on hand, it makes nicer table tops and I also resaw it to make drawers and small boxes.

Jimmy

ps. most people that do a fair amount of resawing have extension blocks raising the height of the cut to 12" or more.

Jimmy

[Rocker]

Jeff,
You're thinking right, in my opinion. It's always nice to have a little extra thickness for rockers...but then how much of your wood would really go to rockers? I agree that resawing is a great way to get bookmatched boards, and I do that often when I'm working on boxes and things like that. My 14" bandsaw has a riser block, which doesn't add all that much height, but a little creativity goes a long way.
It seems to me that you'd have to balance the fact that you'd be offering a more versatile board against the lower yield you get from each log.
Regards,
John

[jlwest]

Jeff,
I prefer 5/4 bookmatched to 5/4. Most people do not have the proper equipment to resaw 9/4. Most of the 5/4 I get ends up at 3/4" depending on the type of saw used by the sawyer and to standardize my working stock. Anything I use over 3/4 is usually a custom one of a kind job.

Jeff

[jeff...]

Originally Posted by jlwest

Jeff,
I prefer 5/4 bookmatched to 5/4. Most people do not have the proper equipment to resaw 9/4. Most of the 5/4 I get ends up at 3/4" depending on the type of saw used by the sawyer and to standardize my working stock. Anything I use over 3/4 is usually a custom one of a kind job.

Jeff

I prefer 5/4 bookmatched to 5/4. - I think you might mean you prefer 5/4 rough bookmatched to dress @ 3/4 finished?

I know all to well what your sawing about 5/4 finishing to 3/4 - I played that game with sayers before I got my sawmill, I would have to order 5/4 to get a 3/4" finished board. Buying 5/4 to dress out to 3/4 is a waste of money. Because your paying for 5/4 when you should be paying for 4/4. A 4/4 x 6 - 8' = 4BF and 5/4 x 6 - 8' = 5 BF that may not seem like much, but it adds up if your buy in quantity (20BF at the rate of 100). I had to tell the sawyers around here, if it does not measure at least 1 1/8" thick green - I won't buy it. They would say oh so you want 5/4 and after so much discussion, I figured some of them just didn't get it or didn't want to get it. So I finally gave in and said sure and paid for the extra 1/4"...

Now that I have my own mill and have adjusted to saw a 1 1/8 thick board on the according to the 4/4 hardwood scale, like it should be. I get 3/4 finished boards from 4/4 rough. That extra 1/8" makes a big difference between a usable board and cull, especially with KD flatsawn boards. Flat sawnboards tend to move more than QS boards do in the kiln. Which leads to another beef I had, not one sawyer around here understood how to QS either Neither did I when I first got my mill, it took some trial and error but I eventually figured it out...

Thanks

[Bas]

Originally Posted by jeff...

Thanks Bas. What is the re-saw capacity of most band saws?

Based on the stats, the 14" bandsaw is the most popular size. Typically, that limits resawing to 6", unless you have a riser block, which adds another 6". But that's the theoretical maximum, with a hard wood I wouldn't want anything over 8", or the motor may start to complain.

Stock thickness doesn't matter of course for resawing (within reason.....)

Bas.

[jlwest]

Jeff,
Yes, historically I have had to buy 5/4 to dress out to 3/4. Some mills don't use bandsaws and the blade kurf line can be deep, sometimes greater than 1/8" on both sides. Obviously not the best way to saw. From what I have seen of your wood 4/4 would work fine for me for most of my work.