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02-25-2008, 11:26 PM
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#1 | | Administrator Senior Moderator
Name: Tracy City: Salisbury State: NC County: Rowan Join Date: Feb 2008 Age: 47 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 7.00 over 30 days | I am getting ready to purchase 100 board foot of red oak. The difference in price is about $90.00 between the two grades. I will be using this wood to build two end tables for my living room. Would most of you spend the difference to buy the FAS grade over the #1c grade and why. This is one of my first hardwood projects short of a couple of picture frames. I would really appreciate some thought out honest replies here.
Thank you in advance!
Tracy   
__________________ Tracy Making Friends One Post At A Time  |
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02-26-2008, 12:10 AM
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#2 | | Webmaster Director
Name: DaveO City: Clayton State: NC County: Johnston Join Date: Aug 2005 Age: 38 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 7.00 over 30 days | Yes I would. The FAS grade is going to give you wider/longer portions of the boards with defect free surfaces. For a table top it is good to have that so you can grain match and use the widest pieces possible. For the rest of the table #1C would work well as the clear cutting units as smaller but so are the members of the pieces. Ideally you could pick out some really nice FAS boards for the table tops and use the lower grade for the legs and aprons.
Check out this thread by Jeff. It does an excellent job of defining the lumber grades and what you should be able to expect when buying and working with them - http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/s...ad.php?t=12283
HTH, Dave 
__________________   Nothing left to do but smile, smile, smile
Honestly Honey, that will cost around $100 $150 $200, and I need a few more tools.
Heard from a client..."If I had your tools and experience...I could do it myself"
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
--Dr. Seuss
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02-26-2008, 12:14 AM
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#3 |
Name: Eric City: Concord State: NC County: Cabarrus Join Date: Dec 2005 Age: 35 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 3.97 over 30 days | You'll get less usable lumber out of the #1 common than you will out of FAS grade due to knots and other defects. How much less will depend on your project. If your project requires a lot of long wide clear boards, you will have a lot of waste from #1 common, and you are probably best sticking with FAS. If your project is mostly small narrow pieces or you don't mind knots, you won't have a lot of waste from #1 common and that may be the cheapest way to go. You can find some details in the difference allowable defects here.
I typically buy FAS since that is mostly what i find available. If i didn't have a large project and found some #1 common significantly cheaper, i wouldn't hesitate to buy that though.
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Eric
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02-26-2008, 12:15 AM
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#4 | | Administrator Senior Moderator
Name: Tracy City: Salisbury State: NC County: Rowan Join Date: Feb 2008 Age: 47 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 7.00 over 30 days | Thanks again Dave, I can always depend on an answer from you. I look forward to meeting all of you at some of the upcoming gatherings. I will view the thread you referenced in your post.
Tracy
__________________ Tracy Making Friends One Post At A Time  |
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02-26-2008, 12:19 AM
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#5 | | Administrator Senior Moderator
Name: Tracy City: Salisbury State: NC County: Rowan Join Date: Feb 2008 Age: 47 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 7.00 over 30 days | Originally Posted by thrytis You'll get less usable lumber out of the #1 common than you will out of FAS grade due to knots and other defects. How much less will depend on your project. If your project requires a lot of long wide clear boards, you will have a lot of waste from #1 common, and you are probably best sticking with FAS. If your project is mostly small narrow pieces or you don't mind knots, you won't have a lot of waste from #1 common and that may be the cheapest way to go. You can find some details in the difference allowable defects here.
I typically buy FAS since that is mostly what i find available. If i didn't have a large project and found some #1 common significantly cheaper, i wouldn't hesitate to buy that though. Thank you Eric, I will look at the referenced web site and use that and Dave's reference to learn yet another lesson from this forum and the great bunch of folks here.
__________________ Tracy Making Friends One Post At A Time  |
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02-26-2008, 12:41 AM
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#6 |
Name: Robert City: Matthews State: NC County: Union Join Date: Feb 2007 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 5.60 over 30 days | Tracy,
Red Oak is a relatively cheap wood, provided your not buying it at the borg's, and I find that the cost usually ends up being about the same either way. With the lower grade wood you will end up wasting more time sorting through it, create more waste/cut-offs and in the end you may not have as nice of looking piece. I'd recommend FAS. You should be able to find 4/4 KD FAS RGH for around $3/bdft at retail, give or take a little.
Rob
__________________ A woodworker is one that works for hours getting machinery set to perfection, then pulls out an imperfect piece of wood and makes a beautiful imperfect project. |
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02-26-2008, 12:50 AM
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#7 |
Name: jeff... City: Stovall State: NC County: Granville Join Date: Mar 2006 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 6.77 over 30 days | Originally Posted by thrytis You'll get less usable lumber out of the #1 common than you will out of FAS grade due to knots and other defects. How much less will depend on your project. If your project requires a lot of long wide clear boards, you will have a lot of waste from #1 common, and you are probably best sticking with FAS. If your project is mostly small narrow pieces or you don't mind knots, you won't have a lot of waste from #1 common and that may be the cheapest way to go. You can find some details in the difference allowable defects here.
I typically buy FAS since that is mostly what i find available. If i didn't have a large project and found some #1 common significantly cheaper, i wouldn't hesitate to buy that though. Dang that's a great reference - thanks for posting it
I think it's good for people who are serious about woodworking to get a basic understanding of hardwood lumber grades and IMHO this is a really good reference.
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02-26-2008, 07:59 PM
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#8 | | Administrator Senior Moderator
Name: Tracy City: Salisbury State: NC County: Rowan Join Date: Feb 2008 Age: 47 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 7.00 over 30 days | Thanks for all of your advise, placing order tomorrow for 100 bf of fas red oak for the end tables. I will post pics as I progress into the world of hardwood. I may need some guidance along the way in laminating, Glue up of main panels. I am comfortable that with the friendly guidance of the pros here that my project will come out ok. BTW LOML has settled for pot luck in design. I did a basic plan in sketchup and will be tweaking it along the way. If anyone has photos of end tables with basically a drawer on top and a door on bottom to store stuff in I would welcome ideas or plans. Again thank all of you.
Tracy
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