Dry Lumber Storage Question.....

[redhawknc1]

I need to clean up my workshop (3-car garage dedicated to workshop) to maximize the space. I have approximately 300bdft of cherry,300 bdft of red oak,150 bdft of walnut, 100 bdft of mahogany and another 100 bdft of odds and ends. I have 1 wall complety full of wood using 4 triton racks. Have 2 layer thick 4 foot high of cherry against another wall sitting on contact with cement floor (bad). And wood is propped up in every corner. So, I need some organization.
My question.......
This is all dry lumber. Have a hack of 200+ bdft of walnut drying outside for next fall. I built a 8X10 barn for 2 pet goats which I recently moved elsewhere a few years ago about 400 yards from my house. I was thinking about laying some thick plastic and flooring the barn with PT lumber. Replacing the barn gate with a big door. I purchased a bunch of the triton wood racks when they were on sale. I was thinking about loading the walls of the barn with these for storage. I should be able to use the floor deck underneath to stack more wood. And there is a loft that I could store shorts if needed. it is 8' wide x 3' ft plus deep.One problem is that most of the wood is longer than 10 ft. So would have to be sized in length. Then build a rack system down the middle (like one that was in a recent woodworking magazine) with walkways between it (if I need more space).
So, will there be a problem with this, moisture content in garage workshop versus outside unheated but dry storage area. I think cutting the boards to 10 ft won't really increase my waste, because I can use a lot of shorts. I would keep the wood need for the project I'm working on and a selection of other species on the triton rack system in the workshop. As it is depleted, I would refill from the barn. Would the wood in the barn need stickered? Don't see why.
Do you see any problem with this or any suggestions on what I should do. This would be cheaper than buying a utility building or building another. And I like to buy up wood when I get a great deal to have on hand. Think it over and comment!

[DaveO]

If this wood is kiln dried it won't need to be stickered. Where ever you store the wood it will reach equilibrium moisture content with it's surroundings. If your garage shop isn't climate controlled, then you wouldn't be much worse off storing the wood in the barn. If your shop is climate controlled, storing the wood in there would keep it closer in MC to the environment where it will be worked and in the case of furniture made from it, closer to the interior home environment. If you do store the wood in the barn you will want to bring it into your shop to acclimate a few weeks before utilizing it.
I keep my KD stock in my shop (I don't have nearly as much as you...you might need to send some my way to reduce your storage needs). I keep my AD stock in a barn out back, and bring it in as I plan to use it.
MTCW,
Dave

[skysharks]

Dave hit it right on the head.
Really not much to add to that.
You could wrap your kiln dried lumber in plastic wrap and keep it totally sealed in the barn for awhile to help keep the hunidity out.
Not sure how long it could be kept like that though.

[Alan in Little Washington]

As said, you don't need to worry about stickering, but I would decide what method of stacking is best for your space. I like vertical over horzontal because it is easier to stack, examine, and remove individual boards. David Marks, Sam Maloof, and a lot of other professional woodworkers, stack vertically.

[redhawknc1]

99% of it is air dried. Have a friend with a sawmill. When the price is right I stock up! Since I have so many of the Triton Racks already, I'll use those first. Then see if I have extra room for vertical storage. 8X10 is a not a lot of room. But it is 10' high ceiling. I have a tractor so transporting back and forth want be a problem. Just hate cutting 4 feet off of those 14' pcs. of cherry. Heavy plastic on the ground. 2X6 floor joist and deck planking for the floor. Do I need to put anything between the plastc and floor? Pea gravel or something. The ridge vents are open, Do I need to fill in that space to make it more air tight or would the ventilation be better open. Just don't want to ruin any wood. And I would like to keep buying when its a deal. Been paying about .50 to .65 cents a board foot and get off-quality stuff free (Knots, twist, etc.) I had planned on buying a 12X16 utility building just for this with climate control of sorts. But that small barn is just sitting empty. Still would keep my rack in the shop full but better organized. Like to have the species available instead of waiting till I need it. I can mill it in my shop. Wish I had a bigger jointer though. Mine is a PM 6". Maybe someday, I'll get one. Love to mill down stock!

[jeff...]

Originally Posted by redhawknc1

99% of it is air dried. Have a friend with a sawmill. When the price is right I stock up! Since I have so many of the Triton Racks already, I'll use those first. Then see if I have extra room for vertical storage. 8X10 is a not a lot of room. But it is 10' high ceiling. I have a tractor so transporting back and forth want be a problem. Just hate cutting 4 feet off of those 14' pcs. of cherry. Heavy plastic on the ground. 2X6 floor joist and deck planking for the floor. Do I need to put anything between the plastc and floor? Pea gravel or something. The ridge vents are open, Do I need to fill in that space to make it more air tight or would the ventilation be better open. Just don't want to ruin any wood. And I would like to keep buying when its a deal. Been paying about .50 to .65 cents a board foot and get off-quality stuff free (Knots, twist, etc.) I had planned on buying a 12X16 utility building just for this with climate control of sorts. But that small barn is just sitting empty. Still would keep my rack in the shop full but better organized. Like to have the species available instead of waiting till I need it. I can mill it in my shop. Wish I had a bigger jointer though. Mine is a PM 6". Maybe someday, I'll get one. Love to mill down stock!

Air drying will only get you down to around 12~15% moisture content here in North Carolina, suitable for outdoor construction and still susceptible to mold growth. Keep air dried stock stickered to facilitate good air movement and retard mold growth. Covering air dried lumber with plastic sheeting that has a high moisture content will surely promote mold growth over time. The key to success is to control and maintain environmental humidity where your lumber is stored. If you feel you must cover your stacks of lumber with plastic, consider landscape fabric instead it'll keep the rain out but still allow the wood to breath.

Your best bet would be to find a HD kiln operator and have him dry your air died lumber for you to a MC of 6 ~10%. This is known in the industry as "polishing off" and does quite a few things for you.

1) Makes the lumber moisture content suitable for indoor project (furniture)
2) Stabilizes the lumber - equalizes Moisture Content from one end of the board to the other - (eliminates wet pockets).
3) Sterilizes the lumber, killing any bugs that may be present with continuous high heat over an extended period of time (48 hours).

After kiln drying bring it back home and store it in area where you can control environmental humidity. This will prevent your lumber from picking up environmental moisture and acclimating itself to a high humidity environment. There is no need to sticker kiln dried lumber if you store it in an suitable environmentally controlled environment.

Let the flaming begin

Thanks

[redhawknc1]

Originally Posted by jeff...

Air drying will only get you down to around 12~15% moisture content here in North Carolina, suitable for outdoor construction and still susceptible to mold growth. Keep air dried stock stickered to facilitate good air movement and retard mold growth. Covering air dried lumber with plastic sheeting that has a high moisture content will surely promote mold growth over time. The key to success is to control and maintain environmental humidity where your lumber is stored. If you feel you must cover your stacks of lumber with plastic, consider landscape fabric instead it'll keep the rain out but still allow the wood to breath.

Your best bet would be to find a HD kiln operator and have him dry your air died lumber for you to a MC of 6 ~10%. This is known in the industry as "polishing off" and does quite a few things for you.

1) Makes the lumber moisture content suitable for indoor project (furniture)
2) Stabilizes the lumber - equalizes Moisture Content from one end of the board to the other - (eliminates wet pockets).
3) Sterilizes the lumber, killing any bugs that may be present with continuous high heat over an extended period of time (48 hours).

After kiln drying bring it back home and store it in area where you can control environmental humidity. This will prevent your lumber from picking up environmental moisture and acclimating itself to a high humidity environment. There is no need to sticker kiln dried lumber if you store it in an suitable environmentally controlled environment.

Let the flaming begin

Thanks

Jeff, So this lumber I have is over a year old air dried, currently not stickered. Now stored in my garage/workshop unstickered.I keep garage/worshop heated with propane wall heater and don't let the temp fall much below 50 degrees. Move this to the unheated barn and sticker. Prior to use, try to find a Kiln guy close by to polish it off. Anybody know a kiln operation near Morganton? So, am I on track?

[jeff...]

Originally Posted by redhawknc1

Jeff, So this lumber I have is over a year old air dried, currently not stickered. Now stored in my garage/workshop unstickered.I keep garage/worshop heated with propane wall heater and don't let the temp fall much below 50 degrees. Move this to the unheated barn and sticker. Prior to use, try to find a Kiln guy close by to polish it off. Anybody know a kiln operation near Morganton? So, am I on track?

What you have done is known as dead stacking. It's basically stacking green lumber without any stickers. I dead stack all the lumber I cut that's heading for the kiln. Dead stacking stops air flow and keeps the lumber wet till I can get it to th kiln. Once at the kiln it's professional stacked right before it goes into the kiln.

I sticker all the lumber I cut that's not headed for the kiln to promote air movement and facilitate air drying.

What is the average moisture content of the lumber? You may want to do a sampling of a number of boards with a good quality moisture meter and average all your readings, that should give a fair representation of the MC of your pile. If your lumber is over 4/4 thick chances are it's MC is still high and has not yet fully air dried. There are three things to consider when drying lumber, air movement through the sticked pile, temperature and humidity.

I still think your best bet would be to have your lumber kiln dried for the reasons mentioned in my last reply.

I've been meaning to do a little write up on lumber drying techniques but have not seemed to be motivated enough to put pen in hand.

Thanks

[redhawknc1]

"I've been meaning to do a little write up on lumber drying techniques but have not seemed to be motivated enough to put pen in hand."...Jeff

That would be great! I'm sure a lot of us are in the situation I'm in. I certainly am at a loss with handling my wood from the sawyer, air dried and wet. Its not a good deal if I just bring it home from the sawyer and ruin it. Don't have a moisture meter, so I'll plan on stickering it in the barn. Gotta build the door and floor first though! And I'll start looking around here for a kiln operator!

[jeff...]

Originally Posted by redhawknc1

"I've been meaning to do a little write up on lumber drying techniques but have not seemed to be motivated enough to put pen in hand."...Jeff

That would be great! I'm sure a lot of us are in the situation I'm in. I certainly am at a loss with handling my wood from the sawyer, air dried and wet. Its not a good deal if I just bring it home from the sawyer and ruin it. Don't have a moisture meter, so I'll plan on stickering it in the barn. Gotta build the door and floor first though! And I'll start looking around here for a kiln operator!

Wayne there are two members here I know of that have DH Kilns that's Scott Smith (who I use) http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/member.php?u=1430 and Kyle Edwards http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/member.php?u=24 who I would use but he is to far away from me.

Thanks

[Dusty Sawyer]

I have to echo what's been said, there is a huge difference between air dried and kiln dried lumber. Used to be that the top of old tobacco sheds were good places to dry your stock because of the high temperature that could be achieved. Over time it was enough to not only dry, but also kill any buggers in the wood. Anything that has not been kiln dried should be stickered and depending upon how long you intend to keep it stacked, I would even suggest stickering over the long haul anyway. With no airflow, you get uneven moisture infiltration. I probably err way on the side of caution though as the majority of my experience is with air dried lumber only.

[McRabbet]

You may want to check with Catawba Hardwoods and Dry Kiln in Marion (listed under the Where Are > Wood Suppliers. They are a commercial outfit and may not do kiln drying of personal stock like yours. As mentioned, Kyle Edwards has a kiln and another possibility is a bit farther west at Bee Tree Hardwoods in Swannanoa. I've had stock KD's there.