Time to show my ignorance

lottathought · 05-29-2007, 08:00 PM

I am almost ashamed to ask this.
On the other hand, if I do not ask at some point, I suppose that I will never learn.

Anyways...
I have always done more refinishing and remodeling..so close cuts in wood were usually good enough.
I knew that furniture would be a different story.
And I recently bought a Ridgid TS3650 saw so I figured that cutting plywood would be a ton easier. Well I guess I figured wrong.

I was unable to rip the full sheet of plywood on the tablesaw. (I am trying to build a large bookcase)
I had to break out the skillsaw and make rough rips.
I then ran the rips through the saw to bring them down to size and to straighten the edges.
Even with running the rips through the saw, I found that the board wanted to creep away from the fence....and this with me almost on the side of the table pushing to keep it snug.

What is the secret to keeping the wood snug on the fence?...especially with long strips of wood?

Thanks

walnutjerry · 05-29-2007, 08:07 PM

Originally Posted by lottathought

I am almost ashamed to ask this.
On the other hand, if I do not ask at some point, I suppose that I will never learn.

Anyways...
I have always done more refinishing and remodeling..so close cuts in wood were usually good enough.
I knew that furniture would be a different story.
And I recently bought a Ridgid TS3650 saw so I figured that cutting plywood would be a ton easier. Well I guess I figured wrong.

I was unable to rip the full sheet of plywood on the tablesaw. (I am trying to build a large bookcase)
I had to break out the skillsaw and make rough rips.
I then ran the rips through the saw to bring them down to size and to straighten the edges.
Even with running the rips through the saw, I found that the board wanted to creep away from the fence....and this with me almost on the side of the table pushing to keep it snug.

What is the secret to keeping the wood snug on the fence?...especially with long strips of wood?

Thanks

Sounds like your fence may not be parallel with the blade.

Jerry

clowman · 05-29-2007, 08:26 PM

Also make sure you table surface is really really slick. But I'd start with checking the fence, as previously stated.

lottathought · 05-29-2007, 09:08 PM

Thanks guys,
Actually, the table is pretty slick.
I have used Boeshield T9 and 2 coats of carnuba wax on it before I ran the first board.(For wood..not cars)
I will check out the fence though.
Thanks again.

b4man · 05-29-2007, 09:50 PM

Hey Michael and welcome to the gang! First, just know there are no stupid questions ( unless you count the ones I ask

) and never be embarrassed to ask anything. You can't imagine how many of us look forward to learning from all situations that come up here. We are happy you found us!

McRabbet · 05-29-2007, 10:07 PM

Michael, Don't feel bad -- it is really tough for one person to rip a full sheet of plywood on a standard table saw (sliding saws make it lots easier), so I usually pre-cut my full sheet stock once I've done my layouts and then do a final trim to size on my table saw, always starting with a factory edge against the fence when possible. I'm not familiar with your saw and fence, but if it is a "T" style fence that is secured only at the front rail, then deflection may be your problem. On my Grizzly saw with its Biesemeyer clone fence, I get no deflection. Second, from the infeed side I stand to the left of the blade line and lead the sheet I'm cutting with both hands positioned at least 6" to the right and left of the blade and concentrate my visual focus on pressing the sheet against the fence as I lead it through. As you near the end of the cut, push mostly with the right hand to avoid pinching the stock against the blade. Another aide might be to add a microSplitter behind the blade to help keep the stock kerf on line.

JMTC YMMV HTH

junquecol · 05-29-2007, 10:23 PM

Despite having several tablesaws, I still break down sheet goods with a circular saw and a straight edge guide. Having an almost straight edge helps when ripping to final width. Also support on the infeed side is as important as on the outfeed side. My router table is same height as saw and serves as infeed table. This way you only have to push sheet through, while holding against the fence. Unfortunately it is a "learned skill", much like sharpening a chisel. Once you know how, it is easy.

Gofor · 05-29-2007, 11:02 PM

I had the same problem when ripping some 3/4" cabinet ply on my 3650. The culprit for me was the outfeed table. It was a little high on the right side (in relation to the saw table) which caused the sheet to slide over (This was after I had made sure the fence to blade alignment were dead on). I leveled out the outfeed table to be in the same plane as the saw table and it worked. In your case, the outfeed may be high on the left side in relation to the table.
Another problem, and a strong possibility, may be your splitter. If it is canted or misaligned with the blade, it will force the work out of true. The splitter on the 3650 is a bear to get properly aligned in all three planes (fully behind the blade front to back and vertically). There are multiple adjustments for it (more than just the two bolts holding it on), so PM me if you think that might be the problem and want help aligning it, or we can go through it on open forum. Your choice. Aligning it behind a thin kerf blade is a very exacting exercise and takes patience.
Another place to find help is at www.ridgid.com. Click on the forums and you can find it in the woodworking area. You will have to register to make a post, but there is a lot of info on the TS3650 to be found there.
All this said, I now usually rip it close to size with a circular saw first, but that's because I'm getting old and don't like wrastlin' with 80 lb sheets of ply when I don't have to!!

Go

Joe Scharle · 05-30-2007, 08:49 AM

Older I get...heavier those sheet goods get.
I recently bought a Hawk Jointability (8' model) to help me out.

DavidF · 05-30-2007, 10:22 AM

It is really tricky to stop the front end wandering away from the fence, there is just too much leverage involved and once it starts it's very difficult to stop and the problem just gets worse. I was going to try a set of the "board buddy" guide wheels next time I have large sheets to rip. Only problem is that they need a high fence to attach to.

clowman · 05-30-2007, 08:50 PM

A nice long outfeed table will help too. It needs to be able to support the plywood unaided after it passes through the sawblade

lottathought · 05-30-2007, 09:25 PM

Once again..thanks all..for the welcome and for the advice.

I am still just in the starting stages of getting my garage set up in a wood shop sort of way.

A couple of things that were said are things that I am sure that I am going to have to look at.
One...I am starting to see..from the comments ....that basic cuts with the skill saw are more common than I thought.

2nd..I can really believe that the guide above the blade is off.
I was not aware that it had so many adjustments so I am going back to take another look at that. I did align the blade to the fence when I assembled it and I think that it is square..or at least it was before the plywood fiasco...

Lastly.... I have not had a chance to set up and outfeed table yet.
I did set a sawhorse behind the saw but it seemed to catch the plywood more than anything else.
And I can certianly believe that the sawhorse is not perfectly level.

All these were really good ideas. If you ever have any more, keep them coming.
I have looked at some of the works of art here and I have to simply marvel and just look forward to the day I can create these things.

clowman · 05-30-2007, 10:51 PM

To make an outfeed table really fast.. Screw some Melanmen (umm.. how do you spell that?) to your sawhorses. That will help till you can get it properly set up.

Gofor · 05-31-2007, 12:34 AM

On aligning the splitter, I will repeat something I posted on another forum, as the problem is widespread:

Getting the splitter aligned is one of the more challenging aspects to the saw. Realize that there are three different points of adjustment for it. The manual only covers two. The three pieces are the Blade Guard or Splitter (which attaches with two 10mm bolts/nuts) to the Spreader Support (which has the thumbscrew in it and slides onto the shaft of the) Blade Guard Support, which attaches to the cradle with two 12mm bolts. The manual covers aligning the blade guard vertical to the table by using a try-square against the splitter and loosening/tightening the two 12 mm bolts in the Blade Guard Support (Step 1 in getting it aligned). It also covers loosing/tightening the two 10 mm bolts holding the Blade Guard to the spreader support to get it parallel to the blade. What it does NOT cover is that to get the vertical/parallel splitter lined up directly behind the blade, it is often necessary to loosen the 4mm (5/32) hex screw (allen wrench type) on the round shaft to allow you to move the whole thing left or right. (Step 3). This is done with the thumb screw tight on the rod.
So, if you first get it vertical to the table, and then get it parallel to the blade, loosening the allen screw will let you get it behind the blade. With a thin kerf blade, you may have to go back and forth between steps two and three, but it isn't that difficult once you realize that allen screw is there.

Hope this helps

Go

lottathought · 05-31-2007, 12:00 PM

Gofor..you nailed it..at least part of it.
I loosened the allen screw and had to move the shaft almost an 1/8th of an inch to get it aligned.
After you mentioned it, it seemed so obvious that this is an adjustment.
Guess I just needed it pointed out..thanks.

Clowman..I am going to start on the outfeed table today.
First thing to do..find out what melanmen is.
A quick google search should handle that.
Thanks

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