TS Dust Collection Help

[Alan in Little Washington]

Originally Posted by TBone

I currently use a shop vac with one of these
http://www.leestyron.com/sharkunisaw.php

He makes one with a 4" port also. It works pretty good.

That large plastic enclosure that lifts up when you slide your stock under it, is exactly what I'm trying to avoid.

[Alan in Little Washington]

Originally Posted by Makinsawdust

Alan,
I look forward to seeing what you are making. A high percentage of what I do on the tablesaw can't be performed with a blade guard in place. The top side dust is a real pain.
One thing in your post jumped out at me. You keep referring to Plexiglass. Plexiglass shatters if it ever comes in contact with a spinning blade/cutter. Lexan (polycarbonate) gives the clarity but not the risk if it contacts a blade. I know it should not come into contact but unexpected things sometimes happens in the shop. Lexan cost more but is much safer for the application.
Rob

Yup, thanks for the reminder. I have both laying around the shop and will use Lexan. I was just using Plexiglass in a generic sense.

[Bas]

Originally Posted by Alan in Little Washington

I don't think that is needed. Most of the dust coming off the top of the blade is being "thrown" from the tips and gullets of the blade. The skirt will stop this motion. The DC air should flow under and through the skirt, draw the dust up into the duct.

Sounds like the skirt design is going to be key. Something that is 'solid' enough to contain the dust, and not get sucked into the DC pipe, but flexible enough to let air and the work piece through easily.

Originally Posted by Alan in Little Washington

Now you are getting a little too complicated- this would require an air line running down the duct. For the best dust collection for health reasons is collection at the source. So if possible, I want to get the dust at or very near the blade.

I agree it would be much better to suck up the dust at the source. But, we need more crazy ideas when it comes to dust collection. One day there was this guy that said: "I want to use compressed air to control my blast gates", and most people probably thought he was nuts!

Pneumatic blast gates, granite table saw tops, sandpaper for sharpening, hoola skirt shrouds, we need 999 really dumb ideas to come up with one good innovation

[Alan in Little Washington]

Just so you know, the hula skirt dust guard is not my idea- someone else built a version (however, not nearly as good as mine will be ) and they have been using similar skirts on hp waterjet cutters, CNC routers, etc. for some time.

[JackLeg]

Robert, I'm right there with you. The guard just doesn't let me access and see what I need in most cases. I know safety is a key issue, but even "Narm" has his guard off for most cuts. I'm really looking forward to Alan's "thingamajig!"

[JimmyC]

Reggie,

I was wondering what type of wood you used for making stickers, and is there any kindsof wood not to use? Also is 3/4" x 1 1/4" normal dimensions.

Thanks,
Jimmy

[JackLeg]

I used some ends from rough sawn (but planed) 2X4' that I used to build the kiln. VT suggests 3/4 X 1 1/4 to stabilize the stacks and permit air flow. Place them every 16" to get the max stability.

[sshelton]

Speaking of DC. I am trying to narrow down my selection for a DC. I was looking at the Delta 50-760, but have been intrigued with the HF setup that I would replace the filter with the Wynn model. (after reading from our local experts I would also add a separator to whichever one I finally get). Any thoughts ?

[Bas]

It depends on whether you plan to run it as a portable unit, or if you want to add some duct work, and what kind of equipment you have. A drum sander requires much more suction than a jointer. Duct work for an 800sq.ft. shop requires more oomph than for a 400sq.ft. shop

For the money, you can't beat the HF / Wynn filter combo - $300 to go. That's what I have. I ran my first board through my planer, saw the chips come out, and bought this thing the next day. I added the filter later. It's nice when you can do upgrades in stages. It gets most of the chips and dust, but I'm still doing some cleanup with the shop vac afterwards.

For $500, you can have the Grizzly G0548 delivered, but it requires 220V. It has a canister, with flapper cleaner. Real 2HP, not Harbor Freight 2HP.

The Delta is a decent unit, it has a little more power than the HF. But, I don't like bags. They get dirty real quick, restricting airflow. You can wash them, but it's not pleasant and what are you going to do while it's drying? A canister is the way to go. Adding a canister to the Delta brings you close in price to the Grizzly or JET.

Oh, and you're going to want to get a remote. Those are $40 - $50. You can delay the purchase, but eventually, you're going to want one

[JackLeg]

Amen to Bas' suggestion about the remote. Really handy. My only advice is to buy the biggest "sucker" you can afford. I don't think you can ever have too much power.

Right, Scott??

[Travis Porter]

Originally Posted by TBone

I currently use a shop vac with one of these
http://www.leestyron.com/sharkunisaw.php

He makes one with a 4" port also. It works pretty good.

I thought about getting one of those for my Felder. How do you like it? How did you suspend it?

[Chipper]

I got a question... Where is the dust coming from?
The teeth at the back of the blade or the teeth at the front of the blade?

If the back teeth are producing the dust on there way through the open kerf then they must be cutting wood, and if they are cutting it seems like the workpiece would be lifting. If the front teeth are producing the dust as they cut then some of the chips and dust must be remaining in the blade gullets all the way past the bottom of the blade arc and then up through the rear kerf and being released at the top of the arc.
I would think a simple test could be run by placing a compressed air nozzle in the cabinet and blowing a jet of air perpendicular to the blade in order to blow the dust from the gullets.
If this doesn't change the dust amount then it might be evidence the dust is being produced by the rear teeth as they pass the open kerf.
I'm curious.

[Alan in Little Washington]

I think some of the topside dust is coming from the face of the teeth, but most is likely from the gullets. If if was coming from the board/edges of the kerf, you would get topside tearout. Compressed air blowing on the blade below the table might be a solution that would obviate the need for an over-the-blade dust pickup. It would likely take a lot of air. Who wants to do the experiment?

[Glennbear]

I have been following Alan's tablesaw dust collection thread and was thinking along these lines. I have a tablesaw that I will be working on shortly and intend to experiment with under table air jet. I intend to use the "air knife" concept whenever possible on all my machines. With pressure pushing dust towards whatever collection point I have dust pickup should be enhanced. I will post pics/ results when I have them

PS - Like Alan, I am a "multi-media" tinkerer so steel, aluminum, Lexan and whatever else works are utilized in my projects

[Alan in Little Washington]

Originally Posted by Glennbear

I have been following Alan's tablesaw dust collection thread and was thinking along these lines. I have a tablesaw that I will be working on shortly and intend to experiment with under table air jet. I intend to use the "air knife" concept whenever possible on all my machines. With pressure pushing dust towards whatever collection point I have dust pickup should be enhanced. I will post pics/ results when I have them

PS - Like Alan, I am a "multi-media" tinkerer so steel, aluminum, Lexan and whatever else works are utilized in my projects

Dyson, air blade technology! Clean your hands, clean your blades!