Heating your shop - Page 2

rcorne01 · 01-22-2007, 06:06 PM

My shop is about 12x22. I just insulated a couple of years ago. It is the ground floor of a two story two car garage. I tried kerosene, but personally would not recommend it because of the venting and exhaust issues. With the insulation, I now use a small radiant heater and have it set to run enough to keep the temperature about 65. I have a quartz radiant heater attached to the ceiling I use to bring it up in a hurry. I put a small window a/c unit in the wall for the summer. Everything works fine - no moisture problem. Helps keep finishes and glues at a usable temperataure for me as well. You might want to consider putting in some type of ceiling.

walnutjerry · 01-22-2007, 08:50 PM

Originally Posted by Steve W

I currently do not have any type of heat in my shop, which is a 12 x 20 shed. I did not insulate it, and it has gable vents so that air can flow freely through. It has an elevated, plywood floor.

What have been your experiences? I'm considering putting in electric baseboard or using a kero unit. Any pros / cons with these?

Thanks, folks!

Steve-------240 sq. ft. should not be a big problem to heat. I bought a heater head that attaches to a propane tank (like you use for a grill) and it puts out a lot of heat. It has two "burners" in the head that operate independently so you can use only one, which is what I normally do.

If you insulate walls and overhead you could just about heat it with heat lamps

.

My shop is 32x50-------I have an old air cond. coil that I piped hot water to from a wood fired water stove and circulate the hot water through the coil which has a 2 speed fan behind it. Sounds like cheap heat but let me tell you---------cutting wood is not free even if you have wood to cut. Been thinking of putting a heat pump in-----------maybe geothermal??

Jerry

CV Poker · 01-22-2007, 09:08 PM

My shop is 12 x 24. The floor is elevated and it has a ceiling. A couple years ago I picked up a Rinnai LP heater (off feeBay) and two 40 lb tanks (from a local RV center.) I made a concrete pad to sit the tanks on outside and ran the hose out to them. Works like a champ.

FWIW, Lowe's has all their heaters on clearence.

jmauldin · 01-22-2007, 09:33 PM

Well, I have a 20x30x8' shop that I heat with a wall mounted propane heater (vented). My shop was built out of rough-cut 2x4 lumber, therefore I have 3 1/2" insulation in the walls and the ceiling is insulated with 12" of insulation. I keep the theromstat set on 60 while not in the shop and bump it to 65 when working. I also have a dehumidifer that I never turnoff - just set it so that it comes on when necessary. My propane bill runs about $65-75 per month. The only thing I don't have, but will remedy when I get around to it is an insulated roll-up 8' door to replace the current uninsulated one . The cost may be considered a bit high, but I don't have to worry about tools and machinery rusting and about aclamating any lumber (what I store outside I bring in for about two weeks before use). I also have a small window air conditioner mounted in the wall to use in summer.
Jim in Mayberry

ebarr · 01-23-2007, 09:21 AM

Steve,

This is the first year that I have run my oil filled heater in my shop. I just got my electric bill last night and it was actually down from same period last year. I probably see a larger impact on my bill from my 15 year old daughter who doesn't know how to shut a door when she leaves the house.

SSuther · 01-23-2007, 02:47 PM

My shop is around 14x20, lap siding with a bit of daylight showing through, open rafters. Don't want to insulate it because it was my grandfather's/father's before me and the nostalgia factor has me over a barrell. I use either a twin tube electric quartz heater just to know the chill off, or a 10,000 btu radiant kerosene heater when it is colder. With the kerosene heater, I place a fan behind and above it to help circulate the heat. I have far less problems with rust than I did when I was working out of my garage. I keep stationary tool tables waxed and occasionally wax my planes and stuff. I keep a rust eraser handy to touch up the ones I have not used frequently that may get a bit of rust here or there.

mkepke · 01-23-2007, 10:36 PM

My shop is similar to Fred's - 24x36 with two stories (technically story and a half).

I am in the process of installing a through-the-wall heat-cool AC unit. 22K BTU AC, 18K BTU heating.

I opted for this unit since it has some smarts about maintaining set temperature - multiple fan speeds and oscillators - , plus a good long 5 year warranty. And a remote control.

My big concerns are cooling in the summer, plus being able to de-humidify in the winter when we get those occasional monsoons rolling in

-Mark

Shayne · 01-23-2007, 11:57 PM

My shop is part of garage where I also park two cars, it's about 30x20. The walls are exterior walls with no insulation, however they were finished (sheetrocked and painted). I am thinking that insulation would be a big benefit but I don't want to tear down any sheetrock. I read about drilling holes and blowing insulation in the walls. Anyone ever does this and have any advice? I also do not have insulated garage doors and was wondering if anyone has suggestions.

Thanks in advance

NCPete · 01-24-2007, 12:10 AM

Originally Posted by Shayne

I read about drilling holes and blowing insulation in the walls. Anyone ever does this and have any advice? I also do not have insulated garage doors and was wondering if anyone has suggestions.

Thanks in advance

Shayne, that is the way my parents house was insulated. It was a late 1800's farm house which was essentially uninsulated until 1983???? I think there may have been the equivalent of R-13 in the attic. The crew pulled up and started cutting holes in the exterior siding, and blew cellulose insulation through the holes. something you could do now, with equipment rented from the BORG, in a day, easy.

you can also insulate your garage doors, and then box them to furthur reduce heat loss.

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