Tung Oil / Butcher Block Oil

Tung Oil / Butcher Block Oil · 10-14-2009, 01:26 PM

I've got a few food contact commissions and am looking for a good source for pure Tung Oil or Butcher Block Oil. I will most likely need a gallon, where do you guys buy yours?

Thanks

timf67 · 10-14-2009, 02:18 PM

I buy mineral oil (butcher block oil) at the drug store in the "digestive aids" (i.e. laxatives) section. I also make a blend of mineral oil and beeswax by putting a stick of beeswax in a 16oz mason jar, filling with mineral oil and warming it up to about 180F or enough to melt the wax and mix it to blend it together.

Ken Massingale · 10-14-2009, 03:54 PM

Just use food grade mineral oil, it's the same stuff as Butcher Block Oil and a lot cheaper. I haven't mixed beeswax with it yet as Tim suggested, but intend to since it's widely recommended.

timf67 · 10-14-2009, 04:12 PM

Originally Posted by Ken Massingale

Just use food grade mineral oil, it's the same stuff as Butcher Block Oil and a lot cheaper. I haven't mixed beeswax with it yet as Tim suggested, but intend to since it's widely recommended.

Ken,

If you make a blend, here are some tips. You don't have to monitor the temperature, just heat the mason jar until the wax melts and the liquid is clear. The wax will be cloudy until it melts completely, then it will be clear. Mix it while it is clear and then let it cool. The mixture will get cloudy again as the wax "gels". You can alter the consistency by altering the amount of oil. It is easy to start with less oil and if upon cooling it is too thick you can add more oil and reheat. My wife likes it when I make it with 1 stick (2oz I think) of wax and 8oz of oil, it is a good consistency for maintenance of a woodenware item that is already well "seasoned" with mineral oil.

Ken Massingale · 10-14-2009, 04:39 PM

Originally Posted by timf67

Ken,

If you make a blend, here are some tips. You don't have to monitor the temperature, just heat the mason jar until the wax melts and the liquid is clear. The wax will be cloudy until it melts completely, then it will be clear. Mix it while it is clear and then let it cool. The mixture will get cloudy again as the wax "gels". You can alter the consistency by altering the amount of oil. It is easy to start with less oil and if upon cooling it is too thick you can add more oil and reheat. My wife likes it when I make it with 1 stick (2oz I think) of wax and 8oz of oil, it is a good consistency for maintenance of a woodenware item that is already well "seasoned" with mineral oil.

Thanks Tim, I appreciate the details. Now gotta find some honeybees to squeeze!

rahimlee54 · 10-14-2009, 05:27 PM

Is there a place locally one can buy the wax? I haven't found any yet other than online.

Thanks
Jared

timf67 · 10-14-2009, 09:35 PM

not sure how close you live to a Woodcraft store, but that is where I get mine.

Originally Posted by rahimlee54

Is there a place locally one can buy the wax? I haven't found any yet other than online.

Thanks
Jared

Howard Acheson · 10-15-2009, 11:42 AM

Tung oil is not a good choice. While it may be non-toxic, it has an odor that may end up on or in food prepared on the surfaces.

Here is something that might help if you referring to food preparation surfaces.

An excellent treatment for wooden food preparation surfaces like cutting boards and butcher blocks is a mixture of mineral oil and either paraffin or beeswax. This is what is used on many commercial wood surfaces. It will last longer and be more protective than just mineral oil. Mineral oil can be found in most supermarkets in the pharmacy section or in a true pharmacy. Paraffin is found in the canning section of the store or in a hardware store.

Heat the oil in a double boiler and shave in some wax. The exact proportions are not critical--a 5-6 parts of oil to one part of wax will work fine. Stir the mixture until all the wax is liquefied. Apply the mixture heavily and let it set 10-12 hours or overnight. Next day do it again and continue until the wood will no longer absorb the finish. Let it set for 10-12 hours and then lightly scrape off any excess. Then buff it with a rag.

Reapply whenever the wood begins to look dry.

Ken Massingale · 10-15-2009, 11:58 AM

Originally Posted by Howard Acheson

Tung oil is not a good choice. While it may be non-toxic, it has an odor that may end up on or in food prepared on the surfaces.

Here is something that might help if you referring to food preparation surfaces.

An excellent treatment for wooden food preparation surfaces like cutting boards and butcher blocks is a mixture of mineral oil and either paraffin or beeswax. This is what is used on many commercial wood surfaces. It will last longer and be more protective than just mineral oil. Mineral oil can be found in most supermarkets in the pharmacy section or in a true pharmacy. Paraffin is found in the canning section of the store or in a hardware store.

Heat the oil in a double boiler and shave in some wax. The exact proportions are not critical--a 5-6 parts of oil to one part of wax will work fine. Stir the mixture until all the wax is liquefied. Apply the mixture heavily and let it set 10-12 hours or overnight. Next day do it again and continue until the wood will no longer absorb the finish. Let it set for 10-12 hours and then lightly scrape off any excess. Then buff it with a rag.

Reapply whenever the wood begins to look dry.

Howard,
Thanks for the info, a question if you don't mind>

I've seen mineral oil defined as liquid paraffin. So is adding paraffin wax as a solid to 'liquid paraffin' simply increasing the paraffin solids in mineral oil?

Do the chemical components of beeswax add benefits to mineral oil for our use that adding solid paraffin to liquid paraffin would not?

Thanks Howard.

timf67 · 10-15-2009, 12:05 PM

You didn't ask me, but I'll throw in my $0.02. Paraffin wax has many different grades and consistencies. You can find really soft paraffin and some really hard paraffin. I prefer the beeswax because it is not as "slick" and typically not as glossy as paraffin. Plus paraffin typical comes from crude oil (but so does mineral oil). Also, commenting on the "procedure" listed above I would do one thing differently based on my experience. I would coat the piece in straight mineral oil and let it soak in, recoating until it no longer looks dry. Then I would used the beeswax and mineral oil blend as a topcoat.

Ken Massingale · 10-15-2009, 12:12 PM

Originally Posted by timf67

You didn't ask me, but I'll throw in my $0.02. Paraffin wax has many different grades and consistencies. You can find really soft paraffin and some really hard paraffin. I prefer the beeswax because it is not as "slick" and typically not as glossy as paraffin. Plus paraffin typical comes from crude oil (but so does mineral oil). Also, commenting on the "procedure" listed above I would do one thing differently based on my experience. I would coat the piece in straight mineral oil and let it soak in, recoating until it no longer looks dry. Then I would used the beeswax and mineral oil blend as a topcoat.

Thanks Tim, your input is always welcome.

CarvedTones · 10-15-2009, 12:17 PM

Originally Posted by Howard Acheson

Tung oil is not a good choice. While it may be non-toxic, it has an odor that may end up on or in food prepared on the surfaces.

Howard,

You and I have gone toe to toe about the value of pure tung oil as a finish a few times. Right about now, you are probably rolling your eyes and gritting your teeth, but surprise - this time I agree with you! I used tung oil on a couple of untensils recently. After the first use, I ran them through the diswasher and refinished them with mineral oil. It was very subtle and I don't think anyone else noticed, but I recognized the slight variance in the taste. I would still use it for some items that will have brief contact and even the utensils would not be so bad if they weren't left in to serve with, simmering until everyone sits down to eat. But it gave me pause.

I get my mineral oil in the pharmacy department of a large discount department store. I don't remember the price, but it was low enough that for quantity I would just buy more bottles.

timf67 · 10-15-2009, 12:18 PM

Originally Posted by Ken Massingale

Thanks Tim, your input is always welcome.

That reminds me of another saying that we have all heard before - "Be careful what you ask for, you just might get it!"

Howard Acheson · 10-15-2009, 04:22 PM

Andy, In general, pure tung oil (not tung oil finish) would be considered non-toxic and fine for surfaces that came in short term contact with food. But, it does have a distinctive odor and some might object. Mineral oil does not carry the odor baggage so my preference is to use it for this application.

My position on pure tung oil as a finish is simply that it works fine as a colorant (and I use it as such sometimes) but offers little in the way of protective qualities.

Howard Acheson · 10-15-2009, 04:26 PM

>>> I've seen mineral oil defined as liquid paraffin. So is adding paraffin wax as a solid to 'liquid paraffin' simply increasing the paraffin solids in mineral oil?

Yes, solid paraffin is a kissin' cousin to mineral oil. It adds slightly to the overall water resistance of just plain mineral oil.

>>> Do the chemical components of beeswax add benefits to mineral oil for our use that adding solid paraffin to liquid paraffin would not?

No, probably not. Some like the smell of beeswax.