ShellaWax

ShellaWax · 09-29-2009, 10:13 AM

After I tell a good friend, TracyP, that I really like to use ShellaWax - "Houston I have a problem" a few of my stoppers - I noticed yesterday - have some bad finish on them - one looks like it has flaked off and the other looks like it didn't even take the SW in a certain spot - They where not that way before I took them out Saturday to the festival - It was raining and a few got wet - well actually all of them got wet but we managed to dry all of them off - I am guessing - Does anyone else use this finish? Have you had problems with it later after application? Does it need to cure for awhile so that something like this will not happen? Thanks

PChristy · 09-29-2009, 11:03 AM

Found this while surfing trying to find the info

"The hardener in the polish is activated by the heat generated during the application of the Shellawax. As soon as the surface is dry (almost instantly) a cross-linking begins in the finish. It is this cross-linking process which creates the harder surface. It takes around 3 weeks for the entire process to complete. However, in the mean time the work can be handled and used without fear of upsetting the process.

Just keep it away from alcohol, water, etc during this

time."

Learned something new - I guess I should read all of the directions

RandyJ · 09-29-2009, 11:31 AM

Directions? We don need no stinkin' directions...

A lesson was learned and shared

. Thanks!

Ken Massingale · 09-29-2009, 12:31 PM

Originally Posted by PChristy

Found this while surfing trying to find the info

"The hardener in the polish is activated by the heat generated during the application of the Shellawax. As soon as the surface is dry (almost instantly) a cross-linking begins in the finish. It is this cross-linking process which creates the harder surface. It takes around 3 weeks for the entire process to complete. However, in the mean time the work can be handled and used without fear of upsetting the process.

Just keep it away from alcohol, water, etc during this

time."

Learned something new - I guess I should read all of the directions

Phillip, IMO the heat is the key. When I finish sanding at a lower speed I crank the speed up for finishing. I use t-shirt material, about a 4" square, folded double both ways to give 4 layers. This makes it small enough to not get caught and provides padding.
I apply the finish and rub it in till the pad gets hot as I move it along the blank. I'm a believer in 'if it aint burning yo finger, it aint working', but that's just my way and may not be agreed with by others.

PChristy · 09-29-2009, 12:46 PM

Ken, that is basically the same way I have done mine with the exception of the t-shirt material - I have shop grade paper towels and With the ones that I have the Corian in I have got the blank so hot that I can't touch it after I have applied the SW -Right or wrong I don't know - With the ones that I have the problem with I did about the same thing but not as hot - I think that we didn't get them dried off all the way and they where not cured enough to get wet

- I have plenty of old t-shirts I will try that the next time - thanks for your input

Guy in Paradise · 09-29-2009, 05:04 PM

When I used it, a couple of years ago, it was okay, but I wasn't that impressed and went back to my previous finish method. I have and tried both the Shellawax creme in the can and the liquid.

PChristy · 09-29-2009, 05:05 PM

Originally Posted by Guy in Paradise

When I used it, a couple of years ago, it was okay, but I wasn't that impressed and went back to my previous finish method. I have and tried both the Shellawax creme in the can and the liquid.

Guy what was it that you did not like about it - and what are you using now

FredP · 09-29-2009, 05:36 PM

I have not done any stoppers but have done many many pens. IMO you are doing your customers a disservice by using a wax only finish. I started out using various wax finishes and found they wear off fairly quickly. CA is my finish of choice for pens and would be for stoppers too [if I ever do any]. It's not that hard to learn and it outlasts wax a hundred fold. things that sit on a shelf are good candidates for wax. things that are handled a lot are not. I would not use shelac either because alcoholic beverages may dissolve it.

5-6 coats of CA can be applied in a few minuits. micro-mesh to 12000 without skipping any grits and you are done. I generally use a mylands wax topcoat just because. It will wear off but the CA finish will be shiney enough that most folks would never notice that it's gone.

YMMV
Next time you are in town give a shout. I'll show you how I do it.

PChristy · 09-29-2009, 06:20 PM

Originally Posted by FredP

I have not done any stoppers but have done many many pens. IMO you are doing your customers a disservice by using a wax only finish. I started out using various wax finishes and found they wear off fairly quickly. CA is my finish of choice for pens and would be for stoppers too [if I ever do any]. It's not that hard to learn and it outlasts wax a hundred fold. things that sit on a shelf are good candidates for wax. things that are handled a lot are not. I would not use shelac either because alcoholic beverages may dissolve it. 5-6 coats of CA can be applied in a few minuits. micro-mesh to 12000 without skipping any grits and you are done. I generally use a mylands wax topcoat just because. It will wear off but the CA finish will be shiney enough that most folks would never notice that it's gone. YMMV
Next time you are in town give a shout. I'll show you how I do it.

Fred, I have tried the CA on a pen or two and even on a stopper or two - but I just can't figure out how to rub that CA glue into those curves and steps that I have on some of my stoppers with out it drying so quick - I can see it used on pen/pencils - I just need to come up and see ya - Fred do you not think that after it cures it will be ok

FredP · 09-29-2009, 06:54 PM

Originally Posted by PChristy

Fred, I have tried the CA on a pen or two and even on a stopper or two - but I just can't figure out how to rub that CA glue into those curves and steps that I have on some of my stoppers with out it drying so quick - I can see it used on pen/pencils - I just need to come up and see ya - Fred do you not think that after it cures it will be ok

it may work but I dont believe it will last.

I have used hut wax, [the brown and white sticks] mylands friction polish, crystal coat,carnuba wax and renesance wax. none have lasted very long on pens.

PChristy · 09-29-2009, 07:03 PM

Originally Posted by FredP

it may work but I dont believe it will last. I have used hut wax, [the brown and white sticks] mylands friction polish, crystal coat,carnuba wax and renesance wax. none have lasted very long on pens.

I have sent an e-mail to U Beaut polishes that makes this to see what they say - In the mean time I have four-five with this shellawax on it here at home - I will hang on to them for the three weeks to run a test on them with some water and see what they do - then take them and rub -pull them for a week or so to see how it holds up

- I hate to know that I have spent that much for that bottle and can't use it

NCTurner · 09-29-2009, 07:53 PM

I personally prefer poly, it is made to stand up to the wear and tear of foot traffic, CA will actually crack and turns yellow, and does wear over time.

FredP · 09-29-2009, 08:10 PM

Originally Posted by NCTurner

I personally prefer poly, it is made to stand up to the wear and tear of foot traffic, CA will actually crack and turns yellow, and does wear over time.

yes but poly does too. the problem with poly is the drying time between coats and some of the exotic woods like rosewood are hard to get poly to dry at all.
CA lasts for years from what I can tell and it goes on and dries in less than a minute per coat. oils like poly usually add an amber tint where CA is clear. If there is a lot of details in the piece you can use medium CA. This gives a little more time to work the finish into the details. Some folks use laqeur and dip the blanks. I've not tried that but it sounds workable. Deft spray works too.

PChristy · 09-29-2009, 08:15 PM

Originally Posted by FredP

Some folks use laqeur and dip the blanks. I've not tried that but it sounds workable. Deft spray works too.

I have thought about dipping some of by stopper tops but didn't know what I could dip them in and still have a uniformed finish - will lacquer work for this process

FredP · 09-29-2009, 08:28 PM

Originally Posted by PChristy

I have thought about dipping some of by stopper tops but didn't know what I could dip them in and still have a uniformed finish - will lacquer work for this process

I'm not sure how it works because I havent tried it but seems like you would have to keep the finish out of the tubes for pens and out of the tapped hole on stoppers.

I kinda think all runs would be free!

the ideal finish would be one that dries in a few minutes but stays fluid long enough to self level. so far I haven't found it.....

I wonder how water based poly would work? what is the drying time on WB poly?