Refinishing a new adventure

DavidF · 01-26-2007, 11:08 AM

Wish me luck! I am in the middle of the most horrible and infuriating refinishing job. It's our own teak veneer dining table that has suffered over the years from salt scratches, jenga dents, water marks etc.. And to add to the misery there is a centre panel that has not seen the light of day for the last 10 years! other than that; easy!

I have stripped and bleached the top with Oxalic acid to remove some water stains. I have had a **** of a time staining the outer leaves; they do no react in any "normal" way to the stain colours I have put on. It is like working with something out of "harry Potter" "Davids every colour teak" I applied a nice golden orangy/Oak stain and in places the top turned a wonderful vermillian! I thought $%%&! so out came the bleach again and as soon as the bleach hit it turned bright yellow! The centre panel just to be contrary behaves beautifully and is now a lovely golden brown colour whilst the outside leaves are a blondish dirty yellowy sort of mess having been stained and bleached and stained and bleached a few times. I gave up with the staining and decided to go the toner route. I have put two coats of the ultima shellac sealer on to prevent any problems with compatibility with the next steps. I have read copious amounts on the web and am going with "tints all" and or "Transtints" to colour the Target EM8000 conversion varnish. People tell me to increase the air inlet pressure and decrease the material flow to provide a mist coat and gradually creep up on the colour I need. This table will be the death of me and what's more it is stopping work on the new bedside cabinets!!

More on Monday!!!

Travis Porter · 01-26-2007, 11:35 AM

Interesting.

Is the EM8000 water based?

DavidF · 01-26-2007, 12:08 PM

Originally Posted by Travis Porter

Interesting.

Is the EM8000 water based?

Yes. It is much tougher alternative to the lacquer, but appaently completly compatible with their other wb produces

sapwood · 01-26-2007, 12:43 PM

David,
I suggest a nice cup of tea

Followed by a bottle of wine

Roger

DavidF · 01-26-2007, 01:04 PM

Originally Posted by sapwood

David,
I suggest a nice cup of tea
Followed by a bottle of wine

Roger

Sage advice Roger I'll start now

I guess my signature says it all? must add the bit about the wine!!

jeff... · 01-26-2007, 01:14 PM

David, try not to beat the wood up too bad with all those chemicals. One thing you might consider trying is wiping the surface with a little denatured alcohol prior to applying your stain. Or better yet consider not using a stain it at all, mix up a toner coat and apply between your finish coats.

Is your goal to change the color of the wood to make it look like something other than teak (stain) or are you trying to color match the finish (toner)? I think everyone knows how I personally feel about stain - it's some bad ju ju for me, I don't stain wood but am an avid fan of the use toner.

Just my 2 cents, hope it helped.

DavidF · 01-26-2007, 02:10 PM

Originally Posted by jeff...

David, try not to beat the wood up too bad with all those chemicals. One thing you might consider trying is wiping the surface with a little denatured alcohol prior to applying your stain. Or better yet consider not using a stain it at all, mix up a toner coat and apply between your finish coats.

Is your goal to change the color of the wood to make it look like something other than teak (stain) or are you trying to color match the finish (toner)? I think everyone knows how I personally feel about stain - it's some bad ju ju for me, I don't stain wood but am an avid fan of the use toner.

Just my 2 cents, hope it helped.

My goal was to remove the original stains in the table Jeff and in order to do that had to use a fairly long exposure to bleachs. This left the wood with very little "natural" colour, hence the stain to give some "life" to the wood. As I said, the outer leaves did not react as planned to the dye stains I tried first and and had some unacceptable results and had to remove that stain. This left me with the rather horrible result. So toner it is. I am thinking (according to my finishers colour wheel!) that a blend of burnt sienna and raw umber is my best bet added to the next coat of WB em8000

Travis Porter · 01-26-2007, 03:21 PM

Are you going to spray the Emglo? If so, inside?

DavidF · 01-26-2007, 03:29 PM

Originally Posted by Travis Porter

Are you going to spray the Emglo? If so, inside?

Emglo????

Yes, and yes, inside - the shop you mean?

Travis Porter · 01-27-2007, 08:46 PM

Hmmmm... I have been a bit scared to spray VOC's inside the shop. Maybe for a small project (read non-production) it isn't an issue.

What are your thoughts on it?

walnutjerry · 01-27-2007, 09:27 PM

Need rolaids??

Jerry

DavidF · 01-29-2007, 09:09 AM

Originally Posted by Travis Porter

Hmmmm... I have been a bit scared to spray VOC's inside the shop. Maybe for a small project (read non-production) it isn't an issue.

What are your thoughts on it?

So far I've survived putting on 3 coats with 2 hr spacing! Plus all the toner coats, plus the 2 shellac coats. I have a good respirator and have my air filter going all the time. Seems ok. Overspary with HVLP is so minimal.

Mark Anderson · 01-29-2007, 11:03 AM

all i can say is better u than me

skip the tea pass on the wine

go strait to burbon

DavidF · 01-29-2007, 11:10 AM

I am having a few problems with the surface finish feeling rough. I think it is "dry spray" I think this may affect all middle age men, but in my case I may have my fluid control turned down too far as a result of being paranoid about lack of atomisation! I have posted a question on the Target coatings forum to get an idea of what is considered "too much" flow so that I don't lurch from one problem to another one; I will let you know the answer.

Travis Porter · 01-29-2007, 11:17 AM

Did you sand with 600 grit before the finish/final coat?