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03-11-2008, 11:55 AM
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#1 |
Name: Larry City: Greensboro State: NC County: Guilford Join Date: Oct 2007 Age: 70 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 0.43 over 180 days | I need advice on using wood dyes as I have not been happy trying stains.
I have dyes that mix with either water or alcohol and would appreciate any advice anyone could share.
Larry R. Tysinger |
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03-11-2008, 01:13 PM
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#2 |
Name: Travis City: Wake Forest State: NC County: Wake Join Date: Dec 2005 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 5.83 over 180 days | The only dyes I have used are transtint, and I have only done it 3 times now.
My first pass was a total failure. I sealed the wood with shellac and then diluted the dye with water, then sprayed a top coat. Results - HORRIBLE.
Second round - Seal wood with shellac, mix dye with Target coatings waterbased finish. Sprayed on coats until depth of color desired achieved then clear coated with 4 more coats. I did this on pine. Color and tone was excellent. None of the problems that I have experienced using pigment stain in the past.
I think my screwup on the first round was not spraying the diluted dye straight on the wood. I was trying to avoid raising the grain and sanding so my laziness caused me a lot of after the fact pain.
__________________ I think I am in remission. I am all tooled out.
OK, I did buy a few clamps, but I sold some too. and a cordless drill........... and a RO sander
and another cordless drill, but that is all!!! |
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03-11-2008, 03:03 PM
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#3 |
Name: Peter City: Asheville State: NC County: Buncombe Join Date: Mar 2007 Age: 40 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 1.83 over 180 days | I have been experimenting with the TransTint dyes as well. What I learned this weekend is that they function much better as toners than alone. I kept having problems with the dye running when topcoating with shellac or lacquer. This weekend I did a project where I added the dye as a toner directly to the shellac and applied multiple coats with no problems. My situation may be different since I don't spray finish. Generally I wipe or brush.
__________________
'More than any other time in history, mankind faces a crossroads. One path leads to despair and utter hopelessness. The other to total extinction.Let us pray we have the wisdom to choose correctly.' -Woody Allen
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03-12-2008, 12:12 AM
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#4 |
Name: Travis City: Wake Forest State: NC County: Wake Join Date: Dec 2005 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 5.83 over 180 days | Originally Posted by pslamp32 I have been experimenting with the TransTint dyes as well. What I learned this weekend is that they function much better as toners than alone. I kept having problems with the dye running when topcoating with shellac or lacquer. This weekend I did a project where I added the dye as a toner directly to the shellac and applied multiple coats with no problems. My situation may be different since I don't spray finish. Generally I wipe or brush. So is toning what I was doing? I struggle with the difference in terms with staining, toning, and glazing.
__________________ I think I am in remission. I am all tooled out.
OK, I did buy a few clamps, but I sold some too. and a cordless drill........... and a RO sander
and another cordless drill, but that is all!!! |
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03-12-2008, 12:57 AM
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#5 |
Name: Stephen City: Wilmington State: NC County: New Hanover Join Date: Jul 2006 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 4.86 over 180 days | I have used Mosers water soluable dyes a time or two. Generally the steps that i have used are as follows:
Sand to 220 grit
Dampen piece to raise grain then sand affected areas. Don't sand too much or you'll be back at square one.
Apply dye. I mop it on with a rag maintaining a wet edge but spraying is a viable option. Bare in mind end grain will drink up the dye so you may want to paint a coat of shellac on the end grain to prevent it from getting too dark prior to applying the dye.
Chances are your piece won't look like much until you put a coat of finish on it. I put a coat of thinned BLO followed by shellac.
Hope you find this helpful
Stephen
Here's an example.......... 
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