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11-08-2007, 09:43 PM
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#1 | | Webmaster Director
Name: DaveO City: Clayton State: NC County: Johnston Join Date: Aug 2005 Age: 38 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 7.00 over 180 days | A comment in another thread made me think of this article I read. It raises some interesting points. Good topic for discussion 
Bob Flexner on finishing myths - http://www.popwood.com/techniquearti...shing?id=14741
Dave 
__________________   Nothing left to do but smile, smile, smile
Honestly Honey, that will cost around $100 $150 $200, and I need a few more tools.
Heard from a client..."If I had your tools and experience...I could do it myself"
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
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11-09-2007, 05:41 AM
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#2 | | Moderator Advisory Panel
Name: Cathy City: Forest City State: NC County: Rutherford Join Date: Oct 2005 Age: 53 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 4.51 over 180 days | That's an interesting article. I have to finish both sides of my "trivets" because they tend to become window decorations with both sides being seen. But for most wwing, this makes sense.
__________________ Cathy Skipper |
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11-09-2007, 11:11 AM
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#3 |
Name: David City: Pittsboro State: NC County: Chatham Join Date: Oct 2005 Age: 52 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 3.77 over 180 days | I think I would argue against that point on furniture that is not subject to "applied" moisture, such as wiping with a damp cloth or rain, as in his examples, but I need to think about it first! 
__________________
David
"There is no trouble so great or grave that cannot be much diminished by a nice cup of tea" Bernard-Paul Heroux |
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11-09-2007, 01:05 PM
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#4 |
Name: Wildwood City: Jacksonville State: NC County: Onslow Join Date: Mar 2007 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 0.00 over 180 days | Most furniture and cabinets made to day made from manufactured wood or derivative wood products. This avoids problems with expansion & contraction, and warping. Even fair quality stuff is finished on both sides for appearance.
You really have to pay a lot more for actual solid wood furniture & cabinets, or make them yourself today. I would not buy any thing with out a finish on both sides.
Flexner is not saying don’t finish both sides. Merely that no finish will stop water-vapor exchange, which causes the problems with solid wood. If you read his book, clearly explains a good finish reduces the extreme variations that occur during seasonal humidity changes.
Don't know of too many deck boards that are finished on both sides, eventually weather will get to them regardless on what you finish the tops with. |
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11-09-2007, 10:07 PM
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#5 |
Name: Travis City: Wake Forest State: NC County: Wake Join Date: Dec 2005 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 5.83 over 180 days | Interesting article. It contradicts what I have thought for years, but does make some sense. As much as I hate to finish the inside of pieces I may try it for kicks.
Still, like DavidF I have to think about it some. Who knows, maybe an experiment is in order. take a wide board, cut it into two pieces and on one board finish one side and not the other. On the other board do nothing to have something to compare. Wait six months and see what happens. |
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11-10-2007, 09:26 AM
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#6 |
Name: Willie City: Southern Pines State: NC County: Moore Join Date: Mar 2006 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 1.79 over 180 days | If that is true. Wow!!! Talk about shattering long held beliefs! I have read Mr. Flexner's book. It really helped me to understand finishing and refine techniques I use. In the book he takes a very scientific approach. This is what makes it so helpful. There are so many references in wood finishing to secret recipes and lost techniques that one might think it involved the practice of Voodoo. What I find disappointing in the article is that Bob seems to really solely on anecdotal information. Without a more definitive explanation I don't think I'll change anything for now. |
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11-10-2007, 02:53 PM
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#7 |
Name: Wildwood City: Jacksonville State: NC County: Onslow Join Date: Mar 2007 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 0.00 over 180 days | Went back and read the article again. Not sure Flexner is telling us anything we don’t already know.
Wood for decks, species & lumber grade equal longevity (15 to 30 years). Treated pine may have less than 7 years if not sealed. Heartwood definitely better than Sapwood. The denser the wood used the better so Cedar, Redwood, Ipe, Teak, and Mahogany are the best choices. Only surface treatment needed maybe sealing the ends of the boards. Of course can seal tops of boards if you want too. Also where you live and relative humidity will affect longevity. The cost of an installed Teak or IPE deck, might be more expensive than a composite installed deck.
How about wood flooring which was installed 50 to 100 years ago inside homes? Not sure anyone took time to finish both sides. Condition of such flooring may run poor to great. Quarter sawn boards still make the best for flooring. Even manufactured flooring boards will cup or rise if not installed properly.
Cupping of an old drop leaf table? When was it built? Are you dealing with wood veneer covered tops, or actual wide boards? Plenty of old growth timber (wide boards) used to make furniture around without much cupping and warping. The finish of choice for this really old stuff could be wax, oil, or shellac. Due to age maybe hard to tell if both sides of the board were finished on both sides. Veneer covered table tops may suffer from glue separation of boards below the veneer.
Of course can always argue laying out and gluing up narrow boards by alternating the grow rings. Or not alternating growth rings. Guess that works both ways too!
The article is what it is! Bob, was paid to talk story in a small article which by no means solves all of life’s little problems. |
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