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06-01-2008, 06:03 PM
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#1 |
Name: Jim City: Cary State: NC County: Wake Join Date: Oct 2005 Age: 58 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 6.22 over 180 days | As a turner I generally don't make much use of wood fillers, with occassional exception of coffee grounds to fill voids left by decay.
I'm expanding my horizons so to speak and on my latest project with straight wood have a small gap that needs a filler. The spot is not highly noticeable but obviously I want to conceal it to the maximum that I can.
Project is Red Oak that I will finish with BLO.
Ideas on the best way to hide the use of the filler, brands, precolored, etc.?
Thanks
Jim |
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06-01-2008, 07:00 PM
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#2 | | Webmaster Director
Name: DaveO City: Clayton State: NC County: Johnston Join Date: Aug 2005 Age: 38 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 7.00 over 180 days | I have had good luck using Famowood fillers, especially with a natural (non-stained) finish. Particularly the Red Oak filler works very well. If it is small void I will often use sanding dust and thin CA. That will only work with a natural clear finish also. I have yet to find a good filler that works well with stains.
Dave 
__________________   Nothing left to do but smile, smile, smile
Honestly Honey, that will cost around $100 $150 $200, and I need a few more tools.
Heard from a client..."If I had your tools and experience...I could do it myself"
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
--Dr. Seuss
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06-02-2008, 12:08 AM
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#3 |
Name: Travis City: Wake Forest State: NC County: Wake Join Date: Dec 2005 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 5.83 over 180 days | I use the Famowood as well. I have gotten it to work somewhat with stains, but it has been hit or miss. What I have done in the past is fill the void with famowood, make sure it is on the high side, and then sand it before it is dry. I theorize I am getting some wood dust into it and it helps absorb the stain. YMMV.
__________________ I think I am in remission. I am all tooled out.
OK, I did buy a few clamps, but I sold some too. and a cordless drill........... and a RO sander
and another cordless drill, but that is all!!! |
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06-02-2008, 08:42 AM
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#4 |
Name: Jim City: Lexington State: SC County: Lexington Join Date: May 2008 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 3.97 over 180 days | Another option is to use a shellac stick or wax crayon filler after you apply finish. I think the shellac could go under the finish after any stain. I have not used it but have used wax crayons. They matched the finish of an old chair I repaired for my mother somewhat crudely with a screw. I recessed the screw and covered it with the wax. You could hardly see the repair even when you knew where it was. I've also used one on oak where the color match was not as good but it still worked OK.
Jim |
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06-03-2008, 12:24 AM
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#5 |
Name: Amy Dowden City: Chapel Hill State: NC County: Orange Join Date: Jul 2006 Avg Visit Freq/Week = 2.29 over 180 days | I'm not sure if this is considered a filler, but it is a great tip. A woodworker of 30 years gave me some hypodermic needles to inject glue into very small gaps. On the real needles, they are ground at an angle and you can "stab" them into the wood to fill small areas. I have also used them to solidify an antique bench that had wedged through tenons with excellent success.
The problem he mentioned was that in this day and age, you can't just ask your doctor for these needles. I solved that problem at the local feed and garden store. They sell the needles for injecting animals. I like them so, so much better than the rinky dink thing at the woodworking store that aren't threaded so that when you squeeze them too much the tip flies off and glue goes everywhere
Amy |
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