Wildlife Collector plate

[Jay]

I have the picture to prove it. I bought a book of wildlife collector plate patterns and finished the first one for a friend who likes to bird hunt. Thanks for looking and all critique is welcome. It's the only way to learn to do better. Thanks.

[DaveO]

There's not anything to critique, that looks awesome. The scroll work looks perfect, the pattern is very nice, and the two colors really add a nice element to the piece. The only suggestion I could make is to get a clear plastic stand, the plywood one showing through the back detracts from the design.
How did you do the fine details on the leaves and birds wings??? Are those scrolled, carved or burnt in???

Great work

Dave

[Jay]

Dave,

Thanks for the comments. The details in the wings and leaves are single cuts with a 2/0 blade.

[cskipper]

Very nicely done! The detail in the leave around the outside of the plate are cut with a 2/0 blade? They look carved. What kind of finish did you use? How did you keep the thin places open (not filled up with goop)? What kind of wood is the outside? How did you sand the inside areas? I agree that the stand distracts from the plate. Other than that - Great job

[sapwood]

No questions here Jay . . . just oohs and aahs
It's outstanding and I especially like the 3-D look of the wood layers.

Roger

[NZAPP1]

Outstanding workmanship

[skeeter]

Great job. Awesome!

[Jay]

Cathy,

All the wood is baltic birch plywood. The inside is stained with a golden pecan oil based stain and the outside ring is stained with a red oak oil based stain. As far as the thin areas I did not attempt to really get the stain into those areas. I think the stain on the surface absorbs into the wood enough to keep those areas from looking to light and you would really have to be looking closely to see any difference I think. As far as keeping the thin areas from getting gooped up I just used thin coats of stain and did not have a problem. As far as sanding I just used a small file set to take off any shavings of the edges that were cut and did all my sanding before I started cutting. I have had problems breaking things in the past when I did much sanding after I cut. I used a spray on shellac for a top coat. Which brings me to a question for you. What do you use for topcoating a project like this. How many coats of top coat do you use? The stand came from a pattern in the book but I had not thought about the possibility of cutting it from plexiglass or something like that. Thank you for the comments on it.

Thank you everyone for your comments they are most appreciated.

[cskipper]

I'm still playing with deciding what top coats I like. Originally I was dipping in Danish oil. Then I thinned and used a General finish with some UV and moisture protection (I'll have to look at the actual name when I am down in the shop). The next pieces I tried some polycrylic, but have pretty much sanded back through it except for the inside cuts. Since my pieces average 3/8" thick with lots of little openings, there had to be some way to get all those edges coated. I picked up some of Rockler's WunderCote and think that I will apply it to the top, bottom and sides of the pieces. I'd hadn't originally considered having to protect them from sunlight and moisture so I am still experimenting. I'm open to suggestions. Did you sand the inside of the veining lines? If so, how? if not, how did you get them smooth enough to not need it?

[Jay]

Cathy,

From what I have had experience with the veining lines haven't needed it. Sometimes I get some fuzz along the top or bottom edge of the cut and I just take them off with the point of a small round file going very lightly so as not to damage the edge. Don't know if that is the correct method but it has worked for me so far.

[Travis Porter]

That is way nice!!

[cpowell]

Now, that's a beautiful piece of art there...I don't care who you are!!

OOOhs, and AHHHs are appropriate.

Chuck