Need some advice on carving equipment

[Vanilla Gorilla]

I need some help from the carving community! I desperately want to get into carving, but I am finding it tremendously difficult to even start.

First and foremost, my tools are crap. Cheap harbor freight stuff. I don't know how important the quality of your carving tools is as a beginner, but I suspect that like everything in woodworking I should buy the best I can afford. The problem is, I don't know what constitutes "good tools". I don't want to just plunk down a bunch of money thinking that price automatically equals quality...I want value.

secondly, I see a lot of carving sets out there, and I don't know the difference between them. Stubby, flexcut, palm chisels, full size, etc. Not to mention they all come with different tools. What tools are pretty much essential? Are full size better than smaller tools?

Thirdly, I have no idea where to begin with sharpening. I was never able to get a decent edge on my tools, I don't know how to grind them properly, I don't know how to hone them properly, and then I am sure the quality of the tools comes into play at some point.

If you guys could give me some ideas on a decent set of chisels to buy, and a couple of sharpening tips, I would be eternally greatful. Then I'll be back for actual carving tips

[CarvedTones]

I have an interchangeable set of the flex cut palm chisels that I use quite a bit for detail in relief. I also use a Veritas marking knife to score clean edges. My favorite "regular" (if there is such a thing) carving knife is a chip knife I got from Japan Woodworker. For "light roughing" a small cavity I use a Warren bent blade. My favorite "medium roughing" tool is a Pfiel sweep gouge. It's about an inch wide with a moderate sweep. My favorite bulk hogging tool is a small sculptor's adze. I have a bunch of other stuff collected over the years that gets very little use, but I do use an ultra cheap set of chisels often to clean up edges and what not in general woodworking. You have to resist the temptation to pull out the carving tools sometimes (IMO).

BTW, I had the same issue with sharpening. I use a rolling guide for my chisels and plane blades. One thing I have found with carving tools is that you generally only want to hone the blade, even if it needs a lot of it. By this I mean pulling the edge across fine abrasives or polishes, not pushing it or (gulp!) grinding it. I got some balsa blanks and shaped them to the profiles of my various tools. I bought the pre-formed ones for the Flex Cuts. I rub polising compound on the balsa and hone. About the most agressive I will do is fine emory paper wrapped over the balsa form.

[JOAT]

i've got different views on sharpening than most people. For things like plane irons, that always cut in fixed angles, I belive in sharpening in precise angles, because I believe that's importnt for that type of blade.

But for chisels and the like, because every time you use one, the angle of the cut is always different, so precision in sharpening angles is not needed. A case of close enough is good enough. I use my belt sander to sharpen my lathe chisels, and my theory seems to work well.

For my carving and wood chisels, I haven't used them often enough to sharpen them yet. I don't use my chisel for hand carving by the way, that's what carving mallets are for. I had planned on using my belt sqnder for them also, but recently got a couple of pieces of plate glass, and now plan on setting up a Scary Sharp (TM) system and use that.

I've got about 7 different sizes, and weights, of turned carving mallets. No need for plans for those, just be sure when you turn them you make the handle large and comfortable enough for your hand, and be sure to make the big end flat, so you can stand it on end. I've got one of pine, for light taps, and the largest is heavy dogwood, for really whacking. I made 3 for my oder son, glued two pieces of scrap 2X4 together, and turned them different sizes, and weights; turned out pretty nice. My next one is 3 pieces of oak flooring glued together, just to see how it comes out.

[CarvedTones]

When I make a carving that is just a carving, I will generally use a soft wood like bass wood, swamp stump tupelo, mahogany or the like and hand carving without driving the tools is usually more than adequate. But I have also carved ash and maple and I have to admit that is when I turn to power. I have a router base for my Dremel and I also have a Weecher reciprocating attachment with an adapter that lets me use the FlexCut tools in it. I just finished making a router carriage that will let me do major excavating with the plunge router accurately. It will also do thicknessing. I am just starting a jouhikko (ancient Nordic bowed lyre) for someone and I need to excavate roughly 5" x 15" to a depth of almost 2" in rock maple. The aforementioned adze could do this - eventually - but I will start with power. One other power hoggin tool choice has a lot of neanders hang their heads in shame when I call it carving...









NOTE - Plunge cutting is a "normal" operation for my circular saw and it has the power to do it properly. The saw's base plate was kept in contact with the workpiece at all times. Note the depth stop at the bottom of the second picture; this is actually a precise operation. Cleaned up with a chisel.

[JOAT]

Right now I've got a couple of old barn beams that will most likel wind up as carvings, as soon as I decide on designs. they're largen enough to section up. And a section of log house wood that'll wind up as a Tike, as soon as I get some stuff cleared out of the shop. They'll all get carved the same way, chisels and mallets. No hand carving, no power. The only power tool I would even consider precise enough for carving is a chainsaw. Altho I am considering modifying a air hammer. My carvings might not be art but they are fun.

Quite awhile back I snapped an old bandsaw blade into about 1 1/2" pieces, then slit sort pieces of 1/2" wide 1/2" plywood for handles, and glued the pieces in. Grind them to shape and sharpen them and they make nifty little carving knives. Could use them for marking knives too, but I prefer those cheap mechanical pencils for that.

[CarvedTones]

I use a pencil also. I use the plain old flat carpenter's pencils that won't roll off the bench (but they will turn into missiles if you accidentally bump one with a running belt sander - DAMHIKT). That durn Veritas marking knife doesn't have an eraser for when I put my glasses on and figure out the 8 was really a 6. But the Veritas knife is fantastic for stop cuts and preventing chips at the edge of lines that will get cut with the V tool or veiner.

I keep toying with the idea of getting and ArborTech or King Arthur's attachment for my angle grinder. But the little alarm goes off in my head tell me that this is not the sort of tool I should own because of my propensity for pushing it with free form tools. I am okay with dangerous tools that have strict procedures. When I use my tablesaw, I primarily use a clamping sled. I do sometimes rip against the fence, but I always stand to the side or behind and turn it off between cuts. I respect that tool. The same with my router and circular saw; I set up to do a specific operation that the tool was designed for and don't deviate from how it is to be done. But carving is't that disciplined, which is a big part of its appeal. I do use a glove and thumbguard when appropriate, but I have still spilled a little blood (scars are just tatoos with better stories). I do use sanding wheels on the grinder sometimes. They clean up the bottom of an elliptical bowl pretty well.

I have an old, but historically insignificant, handsaw with a fairly thick blade that I think about making carving tools with someday, but once you use a Pfiel or FlexCut, the bar gets raised so high it's likely that I will be disappointed.

[JOAT]

I've still got a carpenter pencil or two, but I would only use them for very rough work. I much prefer the el cheapo Pentel type pencils that sels for a buck or two for 10 or 12. Fine, consistent line, like you don't get with a carpenter pencil. And, the pocket clip keeps them from rolling, anyway I usually stick them back in my pocket.

Personally, I doubt I'd ever use a marking knife, I prefer pencils.

If homemade carving tools won't satisfy you, then you obviously need to lower your standards. LMAO

[CarvedTones]

I use a pencil against a steel straight edge and then I cut on the straight edge of the pencil line, not down the middle of the line. Carpenters' pencils make a nice thick line that is easy for me to see. But whether the line is .001" or 5' wide, the clean edge is the same size (virtually zero). It's where the mark ends that the cut begins.