Basswood - what finish to apply?

[cskipper]

Okay, I've been playing with carving again. I have several things carved in basswood. I used mineral oil for the spoons, even though I can't imagine they will ever come into contact with food. So they are now food safe, but kind of boring. I've got another piece that I am close to call finished and wondered if there a better choice to use as a finish? I know, I know - pictures will follow shortly, so if necessary, imagine this question as a scenario instead of an almost finished (sorry for the pun) project.

[PChristy]

Cathy, from what little I have worked with Basswood it is very plain - My guess would be that you would have to finish it with a stain or paint you carvings - to get some color into it - Like WoodChuck does with his carvings M2W

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/f...il-boss-23943/

[CarvedTones]

Pretty much anything works, but you have the same issues as scrollwork with respect to nooks and crannies, so if you use oil, thin it. As Phillip noted, there generaly is no grain to pop or showcase in carving grade basswood. Most carvings just sit on a shelf, so it is one of the few things where you really don't have to take durability into account, other than something that won't break down (unless you want that look). Many carvings are unfinished; many are just waxed lightly (if possible; tiny nooks and crannies make that problematic), many are painted and....

[Woodchuck]

Of course, it depends on what you have carved, as to what finish you would want to apply. On most of my carvings, I dip them in boiled linseed oil after painting them with acrylics and then apply a couple of light coats of Deft Satin and finish with an antiquing solution. On anything that I want to leave "natural" I like to apply Kramers Best, http://www.kramerize.com/using_on_wood.htm, especially on the darker pieces. On light basswood, you may want to stain first and then apply. It will give the carving a long lasting and beautiful finish. It's a little pricey but well worth the cost. A little goes a long way. I think both Woodcraft and the Woodworking Shop carry it. Hope this helps.

Chuck

[cskipper]

Okay, here are pictures to veify my claims of having been working-lol!

This one is QS Sycamore

[PChristy]

Nice job Cathy

[cskipper]

Thanks. I guess I should have posted the pictures in their own thread. Oh well, no time not - have to get to SC & work. Have a great day!

[CarvedTones]

I like the one with the Celtic knot best.

[cskipper]

Me too. It was the most difficult because I didn't scroll out any of the "holes", not even the spaces in the handle. The handle curves significantly and I didn't know how the holes should look. I did think to have the weave on the back really be the reverse (over and unders) of the front. The littlest one is from the waste wood of the celtic know spoon. Thanks.

[b4man]

They are really pretty! I can't imagine how you do that!

Barbara

[cskipper]

Originally Posted by b4man

They are really pretty! I can't imagine how you do that!

Barbara

Me either

[CarvedTones]

Originally Posted by cskipper

Me too. It was the most difficult because I didn't scroll out any of the "holes", not even the spaces in the handle. The handle curves significantly and I didn't know how the holes should look. I did think to have the weave on the back really be the reverse (over and unders) of the front. The littlest one is from the waste wood of the celtic know spoon. Thanks.

Curving columns (like a rope or stem) can be interesting to carve. That's probably the most positive term I can use for it. In basswood it isn't too bad, but it is really hard to know when to carve in what direction because of the ever changing grain orientation. And the small diameter makes "design modifications" to correct mistakes stand out like a sore thumb (DAMHIKT ). You did a really good job.

[Glennbear]

In a word Cathy, awesome !!